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Posted

Ulrasonic cleaners come in many sizes, so what parts do you want cleaned?

 

People that use them include:

 

Dentists, optometrists, jewellers, watchmakers, hospitals etc.

 

These things have a stainless steel bath that's easy to clean. Perhaps you can persuade your friendly dentist to clean your Poplock lever for you whilst he does a check-up on your teeth.

 

I won't ask a proctologist if I can use his though, he cleans his opthamascope in it.

 

 
Posted

The process is not really suited to cleaning cranks, seat posts, stemps and even callipers. It will do no more than even a mild scrubbing with a brush and soapy water.

 

It is ideally suited for cleaning complex parts internally, such as the dust and oil out of MTB shifters. Parts with lots of nooks and crannies that you can't reach with say, a brush.

 

I use mine to clean chains (excellent), sticky Poplock levers (excellent), cassettes (good) and Fox shock adjustment dials and buttons (excellent).

 

Smooth things like a seatpost I'll just wipe with a cloth...I may put the seat clamp part in for a few seconds, but then again, I may also just give it a scrub with a brush and soapy water for the same effect.

 

 
Posted

JB, sometimes when I find a beautiful "ou draak" that has been in a garage or store for years, some of the comps are horribly oxidized. Virtually white oxidation and fairly rough. I buff with rubbing compounds from chemspec with an attachment for a baterry drill, I use Autosol... but cant get the finish I want. I recently resorted to diamond paste (pricy) used for polishing engineering moulds. Trying to fing a simpler and elbow friendly method.

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