Clear coat - HELP

[carelgrundlingh]

Hi Guys

 

I've read numerous threads where some of you guys used clear coat on you bikes and some weird places. In all those threads there where remarks on types of clear coat to use, and NOT to use. Which clear coat is the best?

 

My STI's had some nasty scratches on the levers. I sanded it down with 600grt water paper to get to the ally part. (I actually thought it had just clear coat on, but it's, i guess, greyish tainted clear coat). It does look quite nice being just alluminium, nice and shiny. But the shine won't last without clear coat. So I want to clear coat the levers.....so which clear coat?

[Flowta]

I would also like to know, I have a chromed steel frame that needs a cleanup and something on it.

 

I've heard of guys using a wax polish. Not sure if that'll be a good idea on STIs

 

[Lotus]

Wax polish on STIs would be a big no-no. Like the advice on sunscreen, just trust me on this!

 

STI levers

A better bet would be a clear lacquer, like a Dulux rattle-can. If you don't want the shiny metal look then add a small amount of black (or blue) lacquer to the  clear lacquer and shoot it through an airbrush.

Alternatively, for that "anodized" look, try coating the shiny parts with a red, or blue (or whatever colour you like) permanent marker. You'll have to practice a bit to get the coverage even - a rag dipped in thinners will get you back to square one, until you're happy. Finish off with a couple of coats of clear to seal and protect.

 

Frame

Clear lacquers are really not tough enough to protect your frame. The only thing that really does the job is automotive 2K clear coat. If you don't have a spray gun handy, then your best bet is to take the frame (stripped and masked) to a panel beater and ask them to shoot it in their spray booth next time they have a job in there (and that's usually every day). It shouldn't cost more than a couple of hundred (maybe even free, if you're lucky).

Make sure to mask threaded areas carefully, such as BB apertures as well as top and bottom of the stem. I use Prestik in the bottle cage screw holes, seat screw, drop out holes, etc.

 

[Flowta]

I'll take my frame round to the panelbeater when I get time to strip the excess lacquer or what ever was on it.

 

I like the idea with the permanent marker.

 

Do you think I'd be able to do it on my frame before putting on the 2K?

 

[Flowta]

Not the whole frame, just instead of putting decals on after.

[Lotus]

 

I'm not sure I'd do that on the frame - I think it's better for a smaller and contained area like a component.

 

I think decals (or airbrushing) are a far better way to go. Do you have the decals, or is that a problem?

 

BTW - if you clearcoat the permament marker ink, be sure to apply a couple of "mist" coats before you lay it on thickly, or else the marker ink will dissolve under the "hot" solvent and run. Mist coats are applied lightly and from a bigger distance to allow the lacquer to partially dry before it hits the surface. Build this up in layers, allowing enough drying time between coats (usually 15 minutes).

 

 

Lotus2009-12-06 10:20:44

[Minion]

 

STI levers

A better bet would be a clear lacquer' date=' like a Dulux rattle-can. If you don't want the shiny metal look then add a small amount of black (or blue) lacquer to the  clear lacquer and shoot it through an airbrush.[/quote']

I'm not sure how much you can disassemble STIs, but chroming them for shine or anodising them for the anodised look might be an option.

 

Here's some chroming I did on some Campy Ergo levers (which can be completely disassembled.

 

 

 

 

[Flowta]

 

I'm not sure I'd do that on the frame - I think it's better for a smaller and contained area like a component.

 

I think decals (or airbrushing) are a far better way to go. Do you have the decals' date=' or is that a problem?

 

BTW - if you clearcoat the permament marker ink, be sure to apply a couple of "mist" coats before you lay it on thickly, or else the marker ink will dissolve under the "hot" solvent and run. Mist coats are applied lightly and from a bigger distance to allow the lacquer to partially dry before it hits the surface. Build this up in layers, allowing enough drying time between coats (usually 15 minutes).

 

 

[/quote']

 

I don't have the Decals at the moment, I will get some made if I need to.

Just looking at a more customised look.

 

[carelgrundlingh]

So this is what the STI's looklike before:

 

 

And this is afterwards:

 

 

 

Using this clear coat, bought at a automotive paint speciality store (used for car mags):

 

I did the sanding and spraying the clear coat onto the levers, while still assembled as a unit, just masking everything else. Hears BAD stories about guys trying to disassemble their STI's so I stuck to masking. But Edman's are the best!!! Next time I'll try and just get the levers off. But 'till then this'll have to do

[Lotus]

I agree with you - Edman's levers are brilliant. And being chrome they'll be ultra durable. Nice work with the Duplicolor though - that was a good save.

 

Where did you get that done Edman?

 

[Minion]

I had the levers done at African Electroplating in Industria West (JHB). Here's some more info:

https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=57746&KW=electroplating&PID=885683#885683

 

The plating chemicals are nasty, so you'd have to find some way to get the levers off (and on again, which is usually the tricky part). I don't know how easy it is to take STIs apart - you'd probably have to find a junk pair to experiment on.

 

[addict el]

well done they look brilliant.

Elroy

[carelgrundlingh]

@ Elroy: