Sloth1987

It depends on the cause of the itch. Is it for the looks, bragging rights or gains? The gain will be marginal and mostly beneficial in racing. Yes,they do sound nicer and makes your bike look awesome but they do cost a small fortune. You also need to look at higher end/priced models to experience gains as some of the cheaper alternatives could even been slower than your current hoops. The design of the wheel will also impact the handling in crosswinds on deeper section wheels. Consider the braking aspect of carbon as well on rim brake bikes. Riding hilly routes with steep descents wear them out and they can even fail if you overcook them. If you have a lot of money, I would say buy a set but always have a set of training wheels to ride as well when the conditions get rough.

Which wheels do you have?

The first setup had tape on the spoke holes. Didnt work any different. No the rim was bare

Rim was super clean. No glue or dust whatsoever. I dont want to add sealant just to remove it again. My stans wheel held air for days without any sealant

I am not new to tubeless but having trouble setting up new wheel. I changed my rear wheel from Stans to DT Swiss. Had the tubeless tape fitted by a bike shop. They have taped a wheel before for me and had no issues. This time after fitting the tyre, air is coming out the the spoke holes. I always do a dry run without sealant to check if theres a good seal. I then took the tape off, inspected everything and found no issues.Then I fitted Stans yellow tape. Exact same issue. Redid it again. Same issue. Will this wheel require sealant to work unlike my old wheel that sealed without sealant?

Yeah. Different brands. Same sizes

Sound advice. Much appreciated

Any advice different from the general advice given is worth a shot. I think Meezo is setting me up on the right track.

Its the 2018 model

Have two wheels. Same problem

Thanks. If warranty claim fails, I will try that.

Thanks will try anything. Yes I have used both resin and sintered pads.

Ah, thanks for confirming my suspicions. I thought as much. I can't live with it unfortunately I cannot live with it as the brake is useless like this. They will have to honour their lifetime warranty

After reading through old posts, none of them provide a solution for my problem with my Silverback MTB Just to clarify I have already done the following: Replaced pads twice. Changed rotors 3 times and they run perfectly true Changed caliper twice Caliper is aligned in the centre of the disc. Brakes are bled properly No pad rub/drag Proper bed in procedure followed The rear of the bike vibrates and sounds like a horn when applying brakes at any speed. Out of solutions. Is it possibly a frame issue?

Does anyone know what happened?

What is your UK shoe size?

Is the arch support of the shoe aggressive or flat?

Thanks for the advice

Ok thanks. Would you recommend upsizing half a size?

By LG do you mean Louis Garneou?

I want to buy a pair of Gaerne shoes online and I'm hearing mixed opinions on the sizing. Some say it compares to Shimano. Others say they run narrow. Does anyone have experience with them?

Yes the one bike is fine but not the other. Both use the same single bolt 105 R7000 caliper. Brake performance is worse on mine than a Bianchi of 15 years ago

I have swopped the rims out between Aluminum Fulcrum, Aluminum shimano, Full carbon Token. All the wheels and pads drag. Carbon pads are token and a few months old. Normal pads are Shimano 105 and 2 months old The carbon Token's braking is impressive on my other bike

Thanks for the suggestions. The lever feels nice and crisp and the cable pulls freely. I am still not sure what it could be. The performance changes with the angle of the pads. I am getting poor performance with toe in on the pads which is strange because I usually get good results if the front of the pad touches the rim before the rear does