MarkD

1. Definitely get rid of the 28!!! 11-23 with 50/34 is roughly equivalent to 12-27 for standard 53/39. The 28+compact would be equivalent to a 32+standard. 2. Assuming you can maintain a cadence of 11rpm in a sprint, you will be going 63kph using a 50 / 11 gear. As stated, the 50/11 is actually a "bigger" gear than a 53/12 (do the maths equivalent to a 53/11.66). Yes, I do ride a compact. Benefit - able to avoid many of the shifts down to small blade and back. Many races (including 94.7 in 2008 - not 2009 though as city section a bit steeper) ridden only in big blade.

Changing pedals to Speedplay or Keo Carbon will save 100 - 200g....

Similar problem. Selected an additional license card so total should was R195. When I came to pay, the total was R165!!! MYRACE were kind enough to send an email saying I have paid, but not the amount I have paid....

Without proclaiming to be an expert on the forces at play with a rotating wheel, my only comment would be that if the wheel is rotating fast and you are trying to steer more than a fraction of a degree, I think that you should then be more worried about a couple of other forces which will suddenly become relevant: 1 - Gravitational force which will accelerate your body towards the ground, followed soon thereafter by... 2 - Frictional force between your body and the ground. Note - this force will be affected by the roughness of the tar 3 - if you are really unfortunate there may be an additional impact resulting in extreme deceleration. Of course, none of these forces depend in the slightest on which wheels you are using..... The "gyroscopic" force I would think is largely responsible for the fact that the bicycle tends to stay upright when travelling in a straight line (note that it is generally easier to ride "hands-free" at faster speeds), but any significant "steering" at high speed is a recipe for disaster. MarkD2008-09-15 00:39:38

Compact is for people who actually understand maths..... Was compact your first choice or did it come on that lovely bike of yours? I had the choice and I did the maths... For the record - I do prefer the compact and it seems to work for me , but I do not think it is worth the money to "upgrade" if you are currently riding 53/39. Buying a new bike there was no additional cost so it made sense.

Compact is for people who actually understand maths.....

A link to the story on IOL. http://www.iol.co.za/index.php?set_id=1&click_id=13&art_id=vn20080804052906758C166759

Still going to need to do some maths as this will simply give you the velocity of the tip of your crank - you still need to "fudge" the numbers to convert back to revolutions per minute. This method however does have the advantage of eliminating the gear ratios as a "variable" so will work regardless of the gear you are riding... And the simplest method is to spend the money and buy a computer with a cadence function!!!!!

You should be able to get this to work provided you only ever ride in 1 gear on the trainer..... From the equation: Cadence x Gear Ratio x Wheel Diameter = Speed C x GR x D = S Where: Gear Ratio = Teeth in Front / Teeth in rear [GR = F/R] To get the Speed in km/h multiply cadence by 60 (cadence is revolutions per minute) and divide Wheel diameter by 1,000,000 (convering the mm to km) 60xC x F/R x D/1,000,000 = S (in kph) At this point, decide what Gear you will ride in - for example, 53 / 15, and measure your wheel diameter (road will be approx 2070mm) So: 60xC x 53/15 x 2070/1,000,000 = S ie. 0.43884 x C = S or solving for S = 2.278735 x C Now, with your current wheel Diameter setting your speed is 2.2787 times your cadence - eg if your speed reads 40, your cadence would be 91. To ensure your speed is the same as your cadence, multiply the wheel diameter by 2.278735 ie. 2070 x 2.278735 = 4717 mm Problem solved - your speed reading will now be your cadence. Note 1 - Substitute your own acual values Note 2 - This only works if you are only going to ride in ONE gear

Happened last night....

Paddy "palaton" Agnew

Was a konica minolta girl as well. Don't know her name. KM Rider - Claire Matthews

VS is the Superseries Group - this guy just started earlier than he should have. WT should have picked this up by using the mats at the start but clearly didn't.....

Think WT failed to notice that he started with VS...... then calculated a time based on his DL start time. I did see a rider heading off with this group with a "D" number - no doubt he got shelled rather quickly!!!

Maybe someone to DQ would be the DL rider who started with the Vets Superseries... Of course WinningTime failed to notice this despite the timing mats at the start and then used his DL start time to calculate that he rode a 2:27 (about 35 minutes faster than the rest of D group) - a pretty impressive improvement from a 4 hour Argus....

Does sound like a "misguided official". In the Vets groups it is a clearly not allowed to hook onto the next age group when you get dropped as this could influence racing for positions / money in the next age category (eg. a team could get some of their 30+ riders to drop back to help the 40+ riders). My understanding in the open seeded groups is that you are allowed to drop down to a "lower" seeded group at the start (but not allowed to move up to a faster group). The open batches simply have seeding to try to ensure that riders of similar ability ride together to avoid the problems of encountering slower riders - if you are "dropped" from one group but are able to stick with the next then there should be no problem. So what if you influence that important race for 252nd place overall....

I heard that Supercycling was taking over the Hub and Arnie and Owen insisted that the polls be removed... The other possibility is that the Zimbabwe Electoral commission has been appointed to run the polls so the decision was taken to scap them as there was no longer any point... results will never be available

How NOT to cross the finish line (especially as winners of the Women's Race)...