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Thanks for all the feed back. Will look into riding the trails this weekend if weather and time permits.
Are there any worthwhile mtb routes or trails in the Grootbrak Glentana and Kleinbrak area between MosselBay and George?
Don't always feel like the "trek" to George just for a ride after work..
Thanks for the feedback Eddie. Will have to keep it in mind and possible use tubes.I've hadn't had issues mounting a road tyre with tube onto a "narrow" (19mm) MTB rim, but I've had issues with trying to mount it tubeless (700x28) (Schwalbe Pro 1) onto that MTB rim.
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did it last year for the argus. I have a set of slicks barely used if you want to try
What width and make of tyre? Please give me an indication of price ?
Would be great to see any other pictures that you may have of this.
I must agree, the look just is not what you expect it to be.
Did it for 94.7 2 years back... not slicks but gravel bike tyres.
Looks really strange. Am sure it did the trick and rolling resistance was much better than with knobblies.
Thanks for all the positive feedback. I think it's definitely worth trying!
Hi hubbers
Had a thought the other day and wanted to see if anyone had tried it or something similar.
Has anyone tried putting road bike tires 700c of say 28 mm on a 29er rim ( 20mm inner rim width) to use as a "slick" for road use?
This way you could us the same bicycle for both on and off road riding.
Just wanted to see if it had been done and what the impression was.
Hi there,
I'm looking to replace the pivot bearings on the rear triangle of a 2015 Specialized Camber Comp.
Does anyone know what the bearing part numbers are and where in Cape Town I can get them? I believe it should consist of 2 set of 5 bearings.
It's not a diff job to do as I have the press, just need to get the correct part number bearing replacements.
Enjoy the weekend
Lots of great feed back. Thanks.
As mentioned in the beginning it all comes down to personal comfort and preference.
As I read this I can see that the really wide bars are generally more suited to downhills and possibly enduro, while the more XCM/ XCO type riding is between 700 to 760.
I have a Camber with 760mm and am looking for the ideal length bar for XCO type riding I am thinking of doing with the bike I'm assembling.
At the moment I am thinking in the region of 700 or 720mm. I am 1.90 tall, 75 kg and not wide across the shoulders.
Once again thanks for all the feedback.
When it comes to handle bar widths,
How wide is to wide?
What the ideal with?
Obviously everyone is different and has their own preference but this there an ideal handle bar with?
When I started mountain biking 10 years ago my bar width was 630mm and currently it is 720mm ( not on the same bike though )
I think that wider is better to a point but where is that sweet spot? Some trails do not allow for super wide bars but too narrow I think you loose out on the ideal handling in technical trails.
What is your ideal width and what are your thoughts on this issue?
Looking forward to the response.
I see that someone is using my avatar.........
profile picture changed. Any better?
If you are a big guy, don't go with the lightest rim you can find. The problem you described with the cracks around the spoke holes/eyelets is cyclic fatigue. The heavier you are the more this problem becomes evident.
The Hope Pro 4s are very nice robust hubs, but not super light, so it would be a bit silly to team them up with super light rims which aren't robust and difference between a strong rim and a light rim is, say, 100g.
Importantly, get a decent wheel builder to build up with double butted spokes (the narrower center section of the spoke mitigates fatigue issues and saves a bit of weight for free) and brass nipples.
Having said this, you said in your OP that 'Do not want to have to rob a bank.' [/size] Hope Pro 4s are going in that direction and by the time you have finished you will be looking at a wheelset in excess of R7k, I would guess with the flow mk3 or spank 345s mentioned above, more like in R9k. I'm not sure what type of bearing arrangement you have on your Roval hubs, but if they have cartridge bearing, just clean up the engagement system on the rear hub and replace the bearings all round and then build into new rims and spokes - probably half the price.
Thanks for the advice.
I'm definitely not a heavy weight, only 72kg.
The cartridge bearing have just been replaced so at this stage my thinking is to look for a really good set of rims and then have them laced to the existing hubs which I can replace at a later date..
I going to have a look at speaking to a wheel builder and see what suggestions they may have with the option of having a really good set of wheels a year from now.
Any recommendations for a wheel builder in the Stellenbosch/Somerset West area?
FYI, can get a set of FLOW MK3 with Hope PRO 4 hubs from CWC for R 6900,00
Thanks for all the great ideas. Seems like the Hope PRO 4 hubs are the way to go..
Still a little undecided on the rims though.
Take a step back and ask yourself why the rims cracked. Either the rim is not strong enough or there are not enough spokes. If there are not enough spokes or the pattern is not strong enough for you can it be built over with a better pattern?
If your hub is straight pull then you are stuck with the pattern you have. If J bend you may be able to introduce more crosses. Generally No. spokes/9= maximum number of crosses. More crosses = stronger wheel.
If the nipples are aluminium you may struggle to get them off and if 15G nipples were used you may battle to find new ones. If you replace spokes go with 14G double butted with brass nipples.
Should you decide to build on the existing spokes and hub you need the same rim as the original or one with exactly the same ERD.
Original equipment rims cost so might find that an after market rim + new spokes costs about the same.
My opinion is if your rims have less than 32 holes replace the wheels.
Thanks for the input.
Have 32 hole with J hook spokes.
If I went the aftermarket route what would you suggest?
Now's the time to ditch those Roval hubs too. A few of my mates that ride Spaz have had issues with their longevity, just like the Swiss cheese hubs on some Giant and Scott bikes. No high pressure hose required. Now's the time to plan your custom build, with a real wheelbuilder. What a lekker thought.
Yes it's a great thought. Would love to get a great set of carbon with possibly Chris King hubs
How old are they?
3 years
Have to replace my 29" roval hoops as cracks have started to appear around the spoke nipples in a few places.
Question is this
Do I only replace the hoop and then build the hubs and spokes over?
Or
Do I look at getting a replacement wheel set and what? Do not want to have to rob a bank.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Jonkershoek fire 2021
in Routes & Trails
Posted
Certainly not nice.
Smoke has been hectic but seems to be getting less. Let's hope that means that the fire is also been brought under control.
Let's hope the trails have not be damaged to badly.