greatwhite

Out of curiosity, what is it? Always helps to know options for the future?

Thanks for your effort in that regard - BTW, the wheel goes really well so far

Not true - that was my 1st stop with the local DT repair agents trying to come right. They went to a lot of effort trying to make this work but to no avail. The road freehub is 1.85mm longer (as Dave pointed out) the driveside flange is therefore forced to be approx the same amount closer to hub centreline. i.e. the hubshell for a road hub and mtb for a DT350 is physically different. The good people at DT decided when they introduced the upgrade to the 350 (in 2021 IIRC) to do away with the 32 hole option so they only offer 24 and 28 hole hubs for road now.... I guess they felt there wasn't demand for 32 holes and that 28 holes was adequate. This I found out after reaching out to DT head office directly. It is especially dumb, when you consider they still off a number of their own road rims in 32 holes.... And there are so many use cases where 32 (or even 36) holes are the right thing. Ultimately, I imported a Mavic MR801. Comparable to a DT350 in many respects. Slightly larger flanges, and 40t ratchet vs 36 on the DT. Perhaps the only criticism I have of it is the split (to spring load, I believe) end cap on the non drive side which is aesthetically less appealing and perhaps a future gunk trap - I can't comment on it mechanically as the wheel has only done about 100km so far.

Good Day All, Some advice please on rear ROAD hub options that meet the following criteria: 142x12 through axle 32 Hole J-Bend Centerlock disc mounting Shimano HG-L freehub (11/12 speed) Replaceable deep groove ball bearings (ruling out Shimano and others with cup and cone arrangements) I had hoped to use a DT Swiss 350 hub, but no longer make a 32 hole road hubs (I've had a number of DT350s which have been great both road and MTB) I am therefore exploring other options - so far, I have looked at (if some of the info below is wrong, please say so): Industry9 - no longer make a 32 hole road hubs Novatec D982TSB-CL-X12-11S is a low end hub with throw away freehub in the event of bearing failure but meet the spec, Novatec no longer make a 32 hole road hub in their upper ranges Chris King R45d 32h 142x12 hg. Nice, but hefty price White Industries CLD Rear - SKU: HUBCLD32RSBK12. Again, Nice, but hefty price. Bitex BX106R & BX108R. With steel axle (aluminium axles have reported failures). Mavic MR801 - seems very similar in specs to DT350 at similar price point but offer a 32 hole option. Hope Pro5 - it appears they supply a 32 hole hub at a similar price point to DT350 as well. Are there any other contenders worth looking at that I might have missed. Especially ones with local supply and support. (e.g Bitex and Mavic, I would have to import, not sure about availability of others locally for my specific spec) Any input on any of these hubs to avoid based on failure experience? Preferably actual experience rather than hearsay. Any input greatly appreciated - Thank you

So a little feedback - got some of the Soudal Protect and Polish and can report it works well. Having done a solid clean before application and applied it, the frame is easier to clean now. Frame is slightly more glossy as a result of the application, but nowhere near as much as I expected (still quite matt). As @Mike Dewing suggested above and subsequent youtubes I found, make sure you cover your disc brakes and rotor. One video removed the wheels and used little 'glad bags' over the calipers. On large sections of the frame I spray directly on the frame (the easy way), but near calipers and other items I don't want polish on, I sprayed onto cloth and applied form there (the harder way). Ultimately I went with Soudal on the basis they do less marketing than Muc-Off but are massive company that wouldn't take risk and get this sort of thing wrong and (bonus), when you look around you can get it for less that R100 a can.

A bit of an oddball questions to all the wheel builders that read this thread: How many and how often do you get to build a dynamo hub front wheel? And have any of you ever had one that has come back to be stripped down and the hub sent off for repairs and if so how old was it when it needed repair? And was the fault bearing failure or something else? And what make was the hub that had failed?

How the world changes - Arc24s were MTB rims when they came out. Now they are being pitched as gravel/road (still too wide for road IMO)

The frame I have is a matt paint system and absolute bitch to keep clean, so I am looking for for some sort of paint sealer/polish for my frame. I'm not too fussed if it looks more glossy after treatment. The 2 products I am aware of are: Muc-Off Bike Protect Spray 500ml SOUDAL Protect & Polish Spray 400ml My questions as follows: 1. Are there any pitfalls/adverse effects to using these products? 2. Are there other alternatives that folks have had experience with and can recommend 3. Of the 2 products above, which is better, if you have experience with both. (I would assume the Soudal product is probably better give that they probably have 10x the R&D budget) Thanks in advance for any help

on a Garmin 530, I think you will find you can use bluetooth or Ant+ As for straps, they all give up eventually the more expensive ones sometimes last longer, but on Rand/km basis, the cheaper one work out better IMO. I've has Polar, Garmin and various no name brands. Currently using a strap I got from Takealot for (I think) R120 on promo (bought 2) with Gamin transmitter (they all mostly have 57mm stud centres so are interchangeable). To give perspective, I do approx 10000km on the bike a year. Polar strap 2 years, Garmin strap 2 years, no name depending from where 6 months to 1.5 years. Care for the strap after use makes the biggest difference IMO. Rinse in warm (not hot) water without bending the sensor pads too much and hang to dry somewhere not in the sun.

Nextie 25mm I/S width 29" 28 Hole Carbon MTB rim. Got a small crack on it. Only discovered it when cleaning the bike. been replaced and up for grabs. Please PM me if interested. Collection ONLY in Kempton Park

I'm in the engineering game - if I was making 1000s, I could make for a LOT less than R300. For a 1 off, however, better to pay the R300 - I doubt anyone would bite. For a DIY project, though, it really is quite simple (as long as you have grinder, welder, paint....). Good Luck

That information is already publicly available, little point in making a fuss - if you haven't already, you should consider alerting your client instead - will strengthen your relationship with them and give them a chance to clear things up. I know they are legit having dealt with them on more than 1 occasion, but there are a lot here who are sceptics.

I've bought from them a few times. Their services is actually quite good. They even follow with an email to to see if you are happy wit the product. That said, I suspect they got the crank price in the OP wrong. But I suspect very few people can say they never made a mistake.

Depends on the bike - a lot of current bikes you can often sell for near the sum of the parts, but if you have a mismatched or older bike, it often pays to split the parts. I've just split up my old MTB. From comparison on the hub I estimated I could get R6k. Split up I could get over 10k. So far I have sold most of the bits and got just short of 5k, but still have to sell, wheels, brakes and frame. At this point my estimates on parts appear a little optimistic, but I should get R9k, so for a few hours stripping and cleaning and posting ads, R3k is a reasonable return (remembering you are likely to clean and service the bike anyway and in the OPs case the bike is already stripped - double bonus). If you are unsure, do yourself a spreadsheet of all the part and what you can realistically get for them and compare it to what you think you can get built up - 20 min work. The key is to try to look at it from the typical buyers perspective and see what value they will perceive. Good Luck

Best answer I can give: You're wasting your time:- You adding mass to your bike (not much, but still there) The parts cost more Scaling proportionally, If 100kg guys need Ø203 then a 65kg guy could use Ø160. For you, even Ø180 could be considered overkill for XC. Ø203 would a like bringing a nuclear bomb to knife fight - just a touch overkill IMO, the only thing you will improve is your ability to launch over the bars.