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29" MAN

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Everything posted by 29" MAN

  1. Obviosly has a lot to do with what type of rim you run, you get the tubeless ready type which creates a way better seal and then you get the tubless compatible one's, basically any other rim that doesn't state that it is tubeless, which doesn't create as good seal which if I had to take a shot in the dark were the ones you ran off the rim ...
  2. Nino's last words make the most sense where he states that a 26" is more ideal on a XC course where as a 29" is more ideal on a Marathon race, end of story
  3. Regarless of tyre choice the fact remains the same that your front and rear tyre do different things, the fornt is where you need as much grip possible and rollig resistance isn't that great a issue where as the back you need grip but not to the same extent as your front tyre and you also need to keep rolling resistance in mind. Another important point to look at is the actuall rating of the tyre in terms of the compound per square inch, this gives an indication of how "soft" or "hard" the actuall tyre grips, obviously a "softer" tyre weares faster as well. This is important when choosing a tyre to last you either spesific seasons or through out a year. Also quite important is how close the actuall knobbies are apart from each other, this indicates a "ideal" front or backtyre,the closer they are as general rule of thumb, the better back tyre it becomes, the oppisite is also true of the further they are apart. Also keep in mind for eg. how well the tyre will clear mud and so on. Tyre pressure is just as important as tyre choice, Greg Minaar commented in the Mountainbiker Magazine the importance of tyre pressure, you need to determine when you're really going to need a gripping tyre in which case you would run a low bar obviously dpending on rider weight, or a low rolling resistance tyre in which case you would run a higher bar.
  4. Any brand that doesn't quality control their stuff or any brand that doesn't offer warranty
  5. Let me put it in plain English, if you buy a premium brand frame, let's say "Giant", from your local bike shop, and the frame brakes after 2 months of use, is it the shop that should take blame for it or "Giant"?
  6. Well to start with always find out how the warranty works and if you need to buy warranty as an extra, BUY IT, try find out from guys riding similar stuff what their experience has been with the frames and so on. Also try and find out if the manufacturer quality controls his stuff before putting it out on the market. As a last check with your insurance if they will cover for that specific frame. I'm by no means saying that one frame is "crap", but there is definite quality differences, just make sure you buy the right stuff
  7. Your missing the point completely, this is not about pointing out bad suppliers because frankly there are none, Dominic from Summit Bikes, has no responsibility regarding this frame, I've said it before and I hope this will be the last, I'm not publishing the suppliers details, if you see that to be pointless then you're missing what it's about, it's solely to warn other consumer just to be weary regarding what they buy
  8. Very sorry to hear of your loss! Will keep a eye open for it at Linden Cycles the bike might come through if the guy tries to sell it to us, you never know!
  9. Exactly that, except I believe that particular guy is selling that frame as a 2nd hand and doesn't actually supply it
  10. I'll try and get the details from the supplier
  11. Francios who?
  12. I have no allegiance/connection with the person what so ever, otherwise I wouldn't have posted the topic in the first place, would I? (Helps to think before you write most of the time) I'm keeping the name solely to myself for the sake of the supplier, as it not his responsibility to test these frames, it's the manufacturers responsibility, as I said if I had the name of the factory or by whom the frame was made I would say, no problem, but as I said in the bit, I don't have any of that information
  13. The good: I will gladly send other pics of the frame to anyone who sends me their email and asks for a snap The bad: Unfortunately the suppliers detail won't be made public because it is the only name you can put to the frame, it was by no means his fault nor can he be held responsible, if he gave me the details of where he got the frame from I would gladly share that but otherwise no details, sorry The ugly: The carbon splinters I had to pull out of my knee
  14. A very good point, carbon shatters rather than bends like Aluminium or Alloy, as I've said I really have nothing against these frames they are awesome to say the least, just buy the right one and be smart about it, but have a blast on yours man!
  15. Hahaha what I say in my first post is really how it happened, I should really get my training partner a proHD camera because for some reason he is always behind me when I go down
  16. Oooh wait I see, sorry, I use 26cm of a 40cm seatpost leaving 14cm in the frame, not the measure tape but my maths
  17. Thanks I really appreciate it, one can see that you interpret what I'm saying the way I intended it to be interpreted, this is really what it was from the start in still suppose to be, so interpret it in your own way but don't bad mouth because you misunderstand it.
  18. From the start these were my opinions, I don't expect anyone to agree with me, on the contrary to give your own opinions
  19. Well excuse me for not using the right words, I used the site as a guest, there happy? Nothing I've said or posted was a lie, don't go behind a forum name calling people liars, very unethical, just because I don't have as many posts as most people doesn't mean my opinion is a uninformed one
  20. I use to sign in as a guest as udxcob says, you can be one for as long as you need or want to be, I got the detail of a supplier on the site and just took it from there. The reason n created a account was to source a new frame, so if you say I've had it for a month, that's as long as I've had the frame in question ... bet that didn't turn out the way you expected?
  21. Probably true, maybe if I was 18 years old, oooh wait I am, well still I would have to be about 1,9m tall, oooh wait that I am as well! Wow guess there goes that theory seeing as I'm not short, fat or old, I'm just wondering now how you got old because it was certainly not through being smart
  22. That top piece is 8.5cm on the bottem then obviously 6.5cm, intresting theory though! It was more like a crash ... BANG ... WTF! The bit in stratus5's picture was the first to go and the bottom bracket was still dandeling by the internal housing so it kept it in tackt to a point where it splintered and teared the carbon. Maybe I should sell the frame to the highest bidder that he/she can decide for themselves?
  23. Ofcourse, but thats just the thing, as the owner of the bike I know what the frame/bike has been through, and that is just the thing, nothing that has or should have lead up to a break like this, that is why I'm questioning the strength of these frames as I only weigh 65kg with a body fat of 2.9% ... know what I'm saying, I'm by all means lightweight
  24. The piece where the seatpost enters is 15cm at the point where it snapped (will add picture with measuring tape if intrested), I use a EC90 seatpost with a 31.6 diamater which is the exact same as the frame, the most common minnimum insert for a seatpost (incliding mine) is 10 cm, so the break is a good 5cm under where even minimum insert should be,in this frame I used 36cm of the actual seatpost so there was a good 14cm in the frame an aboutt +- 1cm between where it broke, and for the last time I do not abuse frames or bikes
  25. I never said or implied that any frame out there be it branded or not is "rubish" as I have said I've been racingthese frames for two years myself and have and still am happy with them, you are in no position to question my skill, regardless no frame is supose to break like this one dide as you said youself
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