TooManyMatts

My Scott Genius mc20 2005 frame has cracked. Scott's "lifetime" warranty only covers four years!!!!!!!!! so it wont be replaced. I want to look at attempting to fix the crack and where better to ask than on the hub. The crack is here: It goes down the dropout lug about 4 or 5mm. Here is a closer picture: I thought of taking it to a welder who specializes in aluminium. I am worried that the high temperatures of aluminium welding will damage the carbon or weaken it to the point when it breaks and the whole exercise and expense is for nothing. Is this job possible? Is it advisable? Has anyone got suggestions? Thanksmatmum2009-07-24 15:16:50

I found out that the man at Probike who deals with warranty claims is "on leave" so they cannot have anyone look at my frame till next week Tuesday. Then they reckon it will take 2 weeks from then for the part to come IF they decide that my warranty claim is valid. This all adds up to a month without my steed and a month on another bike which is too small for me I'm pretty bummed with the turnaround to be honest

Thanks for the replies. I was worried about the issues Icycling raised. I wonder if the 4-5 years my bike has been in existence counts as a lifetime....

Hi Has anyone had any experience with the reliability of Scott's "lifetime warranty" on carbon frames? I have just broken my frame (05 model) and am waiting with trepidation for them to tell me whether they will replace it. It was not as a result of any misuse. One of the lugs that houses a pivot for the rear suspension cracked right through on a routine training ride. They should replace it but it has been about four days without any response from them so I am getting very worried. Can anyone relieve my pending nervous breakdown?

Interesting. thanks.

I would love to just buy a black one but chair reaction cycles does't have stock. That is why i am looking at the white ones. Where else on the net can you buy cheap components? I have tried in vain to find another site with black seats in stock... Thanks for all the input. The reason I want THIS seat in particular is that I have tried it and its feaking awesome.

what do you mean by that? I was asking if the leather will get stained and look crap with all the riding in mud?

Hi I want to get a white Selle Italia Maxflite Gel Flow seat for my mountain bike. Where I live there is a lot of mud and I'm worried that the seat is going to get dirty and stay dirty. So my question is whether white leather seats are a stupid idea for MTB? Thanks Matt

Thanks Johan. Unfortunately I am all the way down in PMB so I cant bring it in. I was just hoping you might be able to diagnose a hopefully common kind of problem. I will have to let my LBS have a look. I'm not a fan of them though and I like to do my own work.

No. The lever action does not become harder when pumped repeatedly. The travel and feel of the lever is the same on every stroke even when pumped repeatedly and fast. Therefore I think that my bleed job got all or most of the air out of the line. I did it yesterday. Let me take another shot at explaining the system. The problem is that the lever has to be pulled far too close to the handlebars to achieve good braking power and even when fully activated the lever still feels soft. Another noteworthy point is that the pistons do not work symmetrically. One piston moves more than the other. A friend says that it could be that the brake hose itself is flexing to case the "softness". This does not explain the problem of the extent you have to pull the lever.

they are fairly old brakes. the bike is a 2006 model.

haha cptmayhem.... @ John. no you dont have to pump them to get them hard. they go hard but the lever has to be pulled almost to the handle bars and even at that point they are not hard enough. they still feel soft

Hi My discs are really soft. the lever only bites at about half pull and is only tight close to the handlebar. I have done a complete drain of all the mineral oil and refilled and bled with fresh oil. They are still soft and I'm not sure what to try next. They are XT dual control levers.

I wish I could but the rebound is fully maxed out to the fast side hey. The weird thing is that the rebound feels normal when I'm just bouncing around but when I get into a steady pace the stantions just slowly disappear.

yes that is exactly what is happening. What did you do about it?

Thanks Johan The brakes are sorted. I just need to get some more mineral oil and the job will be complete. Honestly I'm too damn scared to send that fork to Fox. I'm a student... There is one last thing I want to make sure of before I send it in. What does the IFP air chamber do? The fork seems to be working really well so I am hoping that the IFP pressure will be wrong and that this is the cause of the progressive compression that results in a permanent bottom-out (until you take your weight off it). I don't want to fiddle with it if the IFP pressure has nothing to do with the problem at hand Thanks again.

I have two tech problems that I really don't know what to do about. Any advice would be well appreciated. 1) My Fox Talas RL 2005 fork is compressing fully whilst riding. The fork slowly compresses to the position of full travel and it stays this way until you bounce around on the fork or stop to let it decompress. The air pressure is correct (i even tried to go way too hard) and the pressure stays constant (ruling out a broken air cartridge). Otherwise the shock performs fine. What is there to do apart from sending it to Fox and crying about the bill for the next month? 2) In order to stop my Shimano XT disk brakes binding I have to align the brake caliper so far to one side that the rotor actually starts binding against the caliper. The pads are worn but not too bad. The brakes are fairly old (2006). The problem seems to be that one of the pistons does not work. It does not have as much travel as its counterpart. How does one remedy this? Thanks in advance