The upgrade is basically complete. All parts except for saddle and tyres sourced on hub. Weight 11.7 kg and cost around R13k or R1100 per KG 🤣 I did do some carbon work on BB shell and stripped most of the old paint off the frame myself which I guess would have cost another 3k-5k if one is not up to that sort of stuff. The transition from the GT is like going from an old Mazda bakkie to a Maserati.
Have to mention that the response to this post is very encouraging for real noobs: Clearly you can ask the most ludicrous questions and there will be knowledgeable people out there with the patience to try and set you on the right path. In retrospect I regret making jokes in a sub-forum where the golden rule is that you don't get laughed at and apologize to those who replied in earnest.
"Underneath all the insulation tape it appears to me like you've got a 2012 GT" - That is news to me. It's supposed to be a Zaskar but I've never been sure. To me it's just 'Old Christine' because she was second hand and F.O.S from the get go (the name came naturally). Anyways she's off to the knackers (broken dropout and other stressed bits from two car collisions. Cannot be sold at any price per KG. Speaking of having a conscience it's about time for me to be clear that this was meant as a bit of comic relief in tough times.
Looking to upgrade from a 26er hard tail. Current bike is costing me a fortune in insulation tape (see pics) and I'd like to move forward with something more economical. I've heard the best thing is to get parts that are strong and light and cheap but I'm struggling to get all three of those boxes checked as I shop around the Hub. I see the very light things are inevitably also very pricey. Thinking of getting past this by offering sellers on the Hub a price worked out on a per KG basis rather than per item. I'd be interested to know what the experts think of this strategy.
Also learning my way through 12 speed tech so can't answer your questions definitively. But there is one thing I'm fairly certain of that may be of help in general terms: Boost hubs are wider only between the spoke flanges. On rear hub gear 'division' remains the same. To make more gears fit in the same space they just made everything thinner. (Hopefully an expert will be along soon to confirm/debunk that.)
