BruceNotTheBoss

Hi JBK, a while back I was using a Santini bib that started to show a little too much. I never gave it much thought and simply replaced it (after someone behind me said he can see my crack) Now after reading this thread, it got me thinking.... I consider myself to be a "slightly" better than average technical mountain biker. Keeping this in mind I move around a lot on the saddle so as to reposition my weight for the next obstacle, etc etc. I found on one or two of the saddles I was using it would bite a little, hindering me when I slide up or down on the saddle. Without thinking too much about it I simply changed the saddle until I found one that worked for me. I see the guys are talking about washing procedures, detergents, make of kit, etc etc. I'm not saying that your saddle is the cause of the wear and tear of your bibs, but maybe something different to consider. Good luck

Background info: I've been mountain biking on a "regular" basis for approximately 10+ years now, I am in the Pretoria area and frequent the parks in and around me. I personally (not saying I don't) am not the biggest fan of hitting the open trails and then telling the story of how the guy with a knife jumped out of the bushes and stole my wheels... if I do I prefer it in bigger numbers. Okay, (don't know if I should name drop but anyway here goes..) When I started out, The Big Red Barn was my place of choice, I liked going there because every time I rode there I found new sections I had missed the previous time. Then I realized that the route markings were so bad that I was pretty much just making up my own course. I then started trying out some of the other courses and found that there were some that had good markings to follow and others where you could also make up your own route as you go along, whilst hoping to see your car again 😁 Now I know that there are a bunch of parks out there, all over the country, that have amazing routes that are properly marked for first timers to enjoy. I can also appreciate that it costs lots of bucks to run a good setup. But imagine going on holiday taking your bike with so that you can try out a new park near the sea then getting so lost that you have to send a pin so that someone can come and find you...yes this really happened 🤪 I would like to think that I am not challenged in this area and maybe I am but I have seen a number of guys that have had the same experience and have stopped at intersections trying to figure out which path to take only to land up at the same place a little later. Some parks even have a "map" with different colors for each route showing where various paths cross or linkup (Hello Wolwespruit), now this should make sense but when out on the trails holding on with white knuckles and you get to an intersection and there are Blue wolves, Red wolves, Green wolves ... all of a sudden you realize that by not having a photographic mind, you cannot for the life of you remember which color links with which and now the map is a blur ...so you do that thing that you do in a multiple choice exam...you pick the middle one, only to run into a bunch of dog walkers who are now very pissed with you for riding on the walking trails. There is even a sign that says "EASY Route" in the middle of a Y junction...too late, all of a sudden you are back at the start. On a happy note, I rode at Red Barn for the first time, after a short absence, to find that they had re-marked their trails to be legible, clear and easy to understand... you see it's not that hard That's the gist of my temper tantrum ...lol I'm sure there are a number of you guys out there that have had similar experiences at the parks you ride at or maybe it's just me. Anyway, feel free to run with it 😎

If it was me... and I'm sure a lot of guys will have there own way, but this is what I found works the best "for me" After removing the tire, the valve and your old Gorilla Tape then start with "throw away the rest of your GT" Go out and according to your rim width (for a standard MTB rim, get around 24mm), buy a roll of the yellow plastic Stans tape and new sealant by the same name. Clean your rim with acetone, benzine, elbow grease what ever takes off the excess old sealant from the rim. Cut the start point of your tape at an angle of about 30* and start sticking the tape (from about 90* from the valve hole) pulling it nice and tight and pressing it into the section where the nipples are making sure you get it stuck properly on the flat section as well. The tape might climb up slightly towards the bead but it mustn't go all the way up, if it does then the tape you bought is too wide. Keep doing this an carry on for about 150mm past the start point and again cut the end off at the 30*. Trim a neat hole with your carpet knife around where the valve sits and fit your valve pressing it whilst tightening the retaining nut. I use some sunlight mixture to pull the tire over (I sometimes have to ask my wife to do it if it is too tight ☺️) I prefer pouring the sealant directly into the tire before pulling it over the other side, again using the soapy mixture. I have a compressor that I use because you want to get a burst or air. Before connecting it up I remove the valve core (less resistance) and again rub the beading with the soapy mixture. I found that the bead already seats (pop) at about 1.5 bar. Quickly put back the valve core, pump the tire to the correct pressure and off I go. Hope this helps

If it was my bike, I would start with checking how much movement there is to get the B Stop adjusted to the correct spacing, secondly when at the chains "slackest" (Smaal to small) the chain should clear the front pully wheel with around 5mm, if you cannot get that then add your links

Hi, let me give you my 10c worth, and I'm sure there will be some guys on the forum that will disagree... The chain length does appear to be correct, you have a long derailleur cage on the bike and this is correct for a 3 blade chainring and therefore can absorb major changes in chain tension, that said you are showing the chain placed on the extremes, for example big chainring and biggest cassette blade and smallest chainring - smallest cassette blade, etc. thus causing the dreaded cross-chaining. So stay away from the extremes and you will be just fine.

Hendel i see that the link I attached doesn't open, however the one, if you haven't had a look yet, that i referred to is more like spandex. Your kids probably won't be able to inherit it but for the price I've been quite happy with it. Good luck...

I have had the exact same problem, I stay on a small holding and purchased a Thuli towbar trailer to be able to transport my MTB and Road bike and to the various tracks like a Boss. The MTB not so much but when getting to a ride with your new Bianchi road bike that now looks like you have used it as a gravel bike is a little disheartening. To solve this issue I found a Dust Protective bike cover on Takealot for R350, slipped it over the gearbox and wheels and ...wallah Protective Slip-on Anti Dust Bicycle Cover _ Buy Online in South Africa _ takealot.com.html