mongoose_dude

So I did the Montagu 65km race yesterday (awesome race, by the way)... From the beginning there was a lady on a green / black Cannondale Scalpel who was riding very inconsiderately (many riders commented on this). At about 20km I was riding on a nice open dirt road in a bunch of 4 people, of which she was one. Shortly afterwards, she saw a turnoff which the rest of us must have missed. We were travelling at about 35km/h, and I was right behind her. She then just jammed on her brakes, I hit her back tyre and bailed really hard. Messed up both my knees and hit my elbow and wrist quite hard (hurts like hell today!). My new fully also took a bit of a beating in the crash... Fortunately nothing more serious happened. The other 2 riders stopped to check whether I was fine, but she just f***ed off into the distance. Later I caught up with her and told her that she?d pulled a pretty crap move, and she just commented ?well otherwise we would have missed the turnoff?. I saw her again later at the finish, and she didn?t even apologise.<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> I realise accidents happen, especially when us mountainbikers attempt bunch riding. But to cause a crash and then just ride off into the distance without a word is pretty shocking. Though I know the kind lady?s name, I won?t post it here? All I can say: if you see a 40 ? 45 year old woman on a Scalpel, stay far away from her! [Just for clarity - I'm not stating that the actual crash is her fault at all... I just have an issue with what happened afterwards] mongoose_dude2010-05-16 12:10:15

I know about the recall... Applies to older Durins. (I made sure of that before I bought the bike!)

I got my Merida 96 3000D recently. The bike comes stock standard with a Durin Race fork. I've noticed in the last few rides that if the fork is depressed by about 50mm, then there is a LOT of stiction. This of course means that with my normal sag (about 30mm) the small bump absorption is pretty nonexistent. If I compare this fork to the Reba on my other bike, then this is very very annoying... I've done the whole "keep bike upside down for a night to lubricate inners" thing - didn't help Any ideas what can cause this on a brand new fork? Surely this must be related to the manufacturing of the fork, and cannot be fixed by a service or such? Does anyone else have a Durin? Advice appreciated!!!

This is SOOO f-ing annoying! I finally have the money I need to buy my 96, and now Merida suppliers are out of stock. Apparently only getting my size (XL) in at end of month!!! Been waiting for 2 weeks now, another 3 weeks of waiting ahead. Eish. Thought that the Attakwas would be the retirement race for my Hard Tail, but had to do the MTB argus on it as well (not fun!). Can't wait for the damn thing to arrive! KOM NOU!!!

I stand to be corrected, but I think the standard rotor size of Juicy 7s is 160mm. Either way, rotor size is not directly connected to shock travel. A 100mm fork can DEFINITELY take 160mm rotors. Bigger rotors generally require spacers between the calipers and the mount on the fork. Check if there are spacers in there... If yes, then you can always put in a smaller rotor...

Hi nerice... I haven't decided on one yet. I've realised that in the long run I'd like to own one of the Garmin units, but that's too expensive at the moment... How much can I do with a normal HR monitor? I'd really appreciate some advice... Thanks for offering assistance!

Jammer, ek praat weereens ***. Been a long day. My apologies! Scott: rear = 110mm, front = 120mm ( http://www.chainreaction.co.nz/Bikes/Mountain_Bikes/Dual_Suspension-XC_Race/3227.aspx ) Merida: rear = 96mm, front = 100mm. (magura durin race 100 fork) Hope that is accurate now.

If I am not mistaken the travel on the rear shocks is: Scott = 120mm Merida = 96mm (hence the name) Front forks are both 120mm, I believe...

Ok... will do a bit of online hunting, and read some product reviews... Seems evident that one is not going to get anything decent without spending some cash. Sigh. Wallet =

Thanks, HappyMartin... Appreciate the input.

Don't be a ponce, do the Attakwas. Then we can talk again!

thank you for the reply... I agree with you, getting a lot of info on the thing is indeed necessary. Do you recommend any sources e.g. a certain website which address the points you mentioned? Thanks again (sorry for being such a noob)

Regarding downloads......save up and get one that does the Infrared thing......NOT the the sound..... CS600. S720, S725, comes to mind. VERY useful. I like looking at what I have done and where I can improve.... It helps for sure.....gives a bit of structure.....Power metering would be better but that is VERY pricey..... Go to a trainer. I am with Jaco. He then gives you a training program and advice based on HR (Or Power)..... Works well and takes the guessing out of the equation. http://www.mytrainer.co.za/ Thank you for the detailed advice. Good to have a few model names to read up on. The idea with the trainer is also very good. Perhaps spending a few bux on that is not bad. I suppose the website you suggested gives trainers according to area? I am in Stellenbosch. Tanks again

Oh - forgot to add: altitude meter would be useful (not necessary though)

Oh - forgot to add: altitude meter would be useful (not necessary though)

[ ORIGINALLY POSTED IN TECH Q&A - perhaps not the best place for this post ] Hi guys... I am starting to get a bit more serious about long distance / marathon mtb things now, so I figured it might be wise to get a HR monitor sometime. Since I am totally unfamiliar with these things, I have a few questions: 1) What models (as cheap as possible - I don't have 2 grand for this thing) of HR monitors would you recommend for HR training? I would like one that has extended training programmes (multiple week programmes for instance) 2) Which of these models allow you to download data to your PC? Is this even a useful / necessary feature? 3) Is the whole hype about HR training justified? Does it really work a lot better than riding around without heart rate in mind? 4) I saw some basic Polar HR monitors on gumtree for 300 or 400 bucks... Are these sufficient? I really don't think I need cadence monitoring etc, but extended / structured training programmes might be useful. 5) It would be nice if the monitor I get also has a programme for getting rid of excess beer-belly and other such weighty issues. Which models would have these programmes? If anyone has more info (like a small introduction to HR training or some beginner's tips) for me, I'd really value it. Thanks!

Eish man... that's bad luck. I have a large Mongoose Meteore Pro alu frame lying around... Ironically it's also slightly cracked around the seat-tube. Not terrible, but I got a replacement for it. The frame is rideable, though obviously I wouldn't do any more heavy / jumpy riding with it. So - if you really don't come right, you're welcome to borrow / steal my frame... Not an ideal solution (especially since I'm in the Cape), but perhaps as a last resort. Good luck - hope you find someone to fix your baby for you! PS: aluminium for the win!!! (Mine just cracked coz I drink too much beer heheheheh)