sage

Well, some lubes have waxes included, which tend to flake off and have a reasonable 'cleaning' effect. I'm pretty sure that the grease has no such chance, it's going to pick up dust and grit. Still, there are some wet lubes that I've found horrible - they turn to a sludge paste that's nasty and difficult to clean...so you might have a point. Be great to know from someone who can confirm what exactly new chains are dipped into..

Ran a thin bit of Lightening's clear grease on the chain of my indoor trainer bike and wiped off all the excess ... done about 600km on it and it's still smooth and shifts like magic. Not sure if it would work well outdoors though, as I'd imagine it would pick up all kinds of grit and dust. Could turn into a nasty paste that way... My 2c anyway...

Yep, that's what I was thinking when embarking upon the rotation: trying to keep especially the rings going for longer..

Well, the idea here is to ensure a longer life of cassette and rings...which get expensive to change frequently.. ...and I would honestly prefer to be training rather than cleaning, dealing with this mess is a right pain in the a$$ So - will rotating the chains really help, as I'm led to believe it will?

Ok, I'm trying this with old Coke bottles and some paraffin as the first step - I'm finding that I need to get a lot of gunk and stuff off the chain after even a hard ride..thw wire needs to be long enough to stop one losing the chain during shaking the bottle.. Then some Kleen Green (or other good grease-stripping detergent would do I guess) to wash, followed with good rinsing. Have to hang the chains to dry - wish there was a quick way to get this done, anyone have good ideas to speed this up?

Ever had any issues with corrosion while drying? Where do you hang the chain to dry - inside somewhere?

Hello all, Did a search but didn't get anything definitive on this, so thought to open this question... I'm wanting to rotate chains through my mtb, using powerlinks makes taking them off pretty easy. I've heard that 3 chains is the way to go: one chain on the bike, one chain in the degreaser, one chain hanging up to dry ready for lube. Seems this way one can seriously increase the life and performance of one's powertrain.. Any experience out there on this? What is the best system - what degreaser is best, and what containers etc makes one's life easiest?

Er ... how does one get down technical trails, switchbacks and tight turns on a MTB tandem ... trying to visualize this for myself..? Is a MTB tandem really a good idea? Never thought about it, so just looking for advice or experiences...

Yep, this is my understanding ... we buy the R75 membership and we can race to our heart's content for the year - but now even folks who do the smaller distances and un-timed events must also have valid CSA licenses. Race snakes wanting UCI points and SA Colours etc will have to purchase the additional Race License. I think that naming this particular additional license a "Race" license can easily cause confusion, as most people do want to enter "races" an will associate the names..eish! Perhaps a good lesson for the CSA? Should they rather call it the "Competition license" ... ?

Hello, I didn't get it that the average person needs both the membership AND the Race License. Only people who want this need the Racing Licence: "A racing license allows a rider to represent South Africa and participate in UCI sanctioned events. SA Championship events and SA Colors require a racing license. CSA points will only be given to riders a with full racing license" Most of us would be members: "Membership will entitle riders to race, be seeded and participate in CSA sanctioned events. Exceptions are detailed under Racing License Section." All events now need people to be members of CSA: "ALL sanctioned events require riders to be members of CSA regardless of the distance ridden or whether the event is timed or not. This excludes fun rides and 10km “fun or kiddies” rides." Or have I got it wrong?

Thanks Chris, I'll check that out - yes, the bike is a softtail..but the suspension is stiff and I had this issue on a smooth flat road even. Also, the sensor is very near the hinge, so travel there is quite small - I'd have thought the sensor could cope with a few mm movement as it really just needs the magnetic field to alternate over it. The unit is being replaced by Garmin, so I'll see how the "new" one fares!

It's still doing it, even after re-seating...I'm thinking that there must be a loose component or slightly dry solder joint inside on the circuit board that vibrates and kills the signal it gives off. Will return it rather.

You mean from the vibration of the ride? I've got them pull-ties as tight as they could go...but I could try re-seat the whole thing. As it is, I just read here on the Hub that there's a small hole under the rubber foot that needs to be doctored to make the unit water-proof..

Hello, I have a Forerunner 405, and just bought the GSC10 cadence/speed sensor this week. Installed and adjusted it just fine using the button to show up the red/green flashes for speed and cadence. Paired it with the FR405, and it is picked up and shown. Took off on a ride, and after a little the Auto speed setting showed that the calibration for the wheel size had been determined - BUT, cadence was zero or with very spiked readings.. Tried re-adjusting etc etc, turned off all other sensors (HR, Speed magnet) to no avail thinking that perhaps it was interference. Then, just pedaled the bike dismounted, with the rear wheel lifted - works perfectly! Get on the bike and ride - problem returns. I'm out of ideas, anyone had this happen to them??