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The last update to RockShox’s Pike, Revelation, Lyrik, and Yari forks was just a change to the C1 air spring with a new foot nut and seal head. I believe this was done as a response to complaints from users that their forks were sagging into the travel and so had less travel than advertised. A 160 mm fork might have been sitting at about 155 mm at rest, for example. RockShox has touted the revision as providing a higher ride height and no wasted travel or dead space. However, suspension specialists (such as Chris Porter and Vorsprung) have pointed out that the C1 seal head creates a smaller negative air chamber, resulting in a less supple start to the travel and less small-bump sensitivity. Their recommendation seems to be to stick to the B1/B2 seal head and enjoy the better grip and sensitivity at the top of the stroke, and stop obsessing over the travel markings on the stanchions. Based on my understanding of how the system works, it’s the longer foot nut of the C1 version that extends the fork out so it has more travel and is riding higher. It is equivalent to fitting a slightly longer air shaft. I can only hypothesise that the seal head was revised in order to reduce the negative air volume so that the fork cannot be extended deep into the negative travel to the extent that insufficient stanchion and bushing overlap become an issue. Is anyone able to confirm this, or correct me, please? If I am right, does that mean that one could use the longer C1 foot nut to get the higher ride height, but combine it with the B1/B2 seal head for the large negative chamber, provided that the fork is not already at the maximum travel for that model? So with a 160 mm air shaft in a Lyrik and a 140 mm air shaft in a Pike this should be fine, and would give the advertised travel but also the superior performance of the larger negative air chamber? Any clarifications, corrections, or references to further reading or explanations are appreciated!

Anyone know of a kiff place to service my pike in Bloem? Tks!

I'd like to share with you all the simple installation of the : MRP Ramp Control Cartridge https://www.bikehub.co.za/features/_/gear/previews/first-look-friday-scott-spark-volvo-bike-rack-mrp-ramp-control-cartridge-r5683 Designed for: Current-gen Rock Shox Pike, Lyrik, Yari, and Boxxer World Cup forks (Solo-Air models only) Adds speed-sensitive ending-stroke control and bottom-out force adjustability to compatible Rock Shox forks.Just 55 g! Lighter than most air-spring assemblies with more than two tokens.Isolate and tune bottom-out with minimal changes to initial and mid-stroke.Bring your tuning to the trail and out of the workshop!Easy installation requires little time and few tools - no lower-leg removal required! Compatibility:Ramp Control Cartridge Model A ...will fit 2013 and newer Pike forks with 15x100 axle spacing and 2010 and newer Boxxer World Cup (air-sprung) forks. Ramp Control Cartridge Model B ...will fit 2015 and newer Pike forks with "Boost" 15x110 axle spacing, and all 2015 and newer Lyrik and Yari forks (regardless of axle spacing). CUSTOM TUNE ON THE TRAIL Inarguably, convenience is one of the biggest benefits of the Ramp Control cartridge versus internally-accessed volume adjustment components. Internally-accessed spacers aren’t friendly to on-trail experimentation and tuning - requiring bulky tools and a clean environment to utilize. With Ramp Control, experimentation is so simple it’s encouraged! The powerful range of Ramp Control is harnessed through a simple 16-position knob with clearly defined detents. That enables you to arrive at your base setting in just one ride on a familiar trail, whereas internally-accessed spacers would necessitate a trial and error approach - several rides followed by garage or shop sessions - to get to the same point. A BETTER WAY TO TUNE The volume adjustment spacers used by competing brands change the shape of the air-spring’s curve throughout the entire travel range, regardless of velocity. Aside from the slight change resulting from the volume of the cartridge itself, the Ramp Control upgrade effects only the ending stoke spring curve - as its damping effect is velocity-dependent. This portion of the curve represents intense, sharp hits and big events, like landing a sizable drop or plowing through a rock garden. Without Ramp Control, your fork’s behavior in these circumstances has been compromised by your desired feel elsewhere in the stroke. With Ramp Control, you can tune the general feel of your fork through its air-pressure and damper settings, and isolate big-hit performance and bottom-out with the Ramp Control adjustment. NO MORE COMPROMISES, TUNE TO THE TRAIL AT HAND Unless you ride just one trail, the air-spring volume you’ve so carefully tuned with internally-accessed volume spacers is probably not ideal for all your adventures. A trip to the bike park might reveal, for example, that more support would be welcomed when the features and drops get bigger and trails get steeper than those found on your local go-to. If you have extra spacers and the necessary tools on hand, and don’t mind burning time that could otherwise be spent riding the lift-accessed terrain you just paid for, you could get the needed support. Or, in just seconds, you could add more Ramp Control and keep the good times going. Whether it’s a new-school flow trail or near vertical DH course, Ramp Control gives you immediate control of the terrain at hand - of particular benefit to time-crunched enduro fans tasked with practicing and racing multiple, varying stages. "With Ramp Control, initial and mid-stroke feel is largely unaffected by your level of adjustment - unlike tuning with volume spacers. It enables you to isolate and greatly control required bottom-out force, and experiment with damper and air-pressure settings to achieve your desired performance in the rest of the stroke." Feel free to contact me for info Happy Trails

Calling something a game-changer is most often just marketing talk, but when RockShox released the new Pike in 2013 it did just that - it changed the game. Along came a fork that seemingly offered it all at a time when Enduro racing was booming. Click here to view the article

What would be the most beneficial over the standard spec? I have followed the other similar topics of late, and I have done skills training, upgraded to XT brakes, and added the dropper! running nice 2.3 rubber front and back....so what is next? I see wide lighting's recommended for wheels and RS Revelation for fork. Which one first (wish I could do both at one )? Also, if I go with fork first, Revelation or Pike? love technical riding (not that I am good at it, just good luck ) Riding places like Hakahana is awesome, but keep in mind I also do a lot of marathons like all typical SA riders. 2 bikes would have been awesome, but what can I do to make this one that I have the best? Appreciate the feedback

So as an average rider I decided I wanted to build an enduro/trail type ride....read all the hype about bikes in my budget and desired. I ended up building a Pyga pascoe ( My Zola bud...taxi yellow ????) Have a like minded mate that rides same kinda bike,travel wise but with 26r wheels... Booooo doesn't he know there dead. He built a meta am with a monarch 150mm Rt3. We have done many rides where we have swung a leg over each other's steeds to see what the real world differance is and see if all the hype that those talented journos write ring true for us mere average joe's. We already had a good idea in our minds as to what the differance is between our bikes,and strangely enough we both had the same perceptions mostly about the pro's and con's . Then he went and did the unthinkable and Threw even more money at his steed and put a mrp stage 160mm 34 mm (previous fork was a rockshox 120-150mm air rct3 32mm)Can accommodate either a 26" wheel or a 650b. And changed his Tyres from purgatory & ground control to wtb Bronson 2.3 front & back. As he has a busted wrist and wanted to know how his brand new mrp felt ,especially compared to the pike on my taxi. He suggested take both bikes out and do the same twisty forest sections and rocky runs and up and down more than a few times straight after each other and see if I could feel the differance in the two forks. Yea of course I laughed my arse of at first ,but after not much debating I was keen to be the test biatch. I did a 58km ride on my taxi on the Saturday and was a little leg weary . This was by far the longest ride I had done on my pascoe and wanted to see how it felt in comparison to my 29r's I had previously owned (the list is long).. I rode in pedal mode fork & shock and it was awesome,until I started to get fatigued 10 Km's from home. Then the weight & fat tyres of the bike took its toll and almost instantly made me feel like I was pulling a trailer behind me. I know this is the same on any bike, but was amazed at how quickly it sapped my energy. But with more xc orientated tyres a lighter wheelset I could do the distance and be a lot more comfortable doing it at the same time. Would I be as fast as a 29r ? Never,but as soon it pointed downwards or got rough I would be laughing my tits of at the 100mm carbon boys. So I meet my mate on Sunday as planed and I have a go at thrashing his new mrp and comparing it to my pike. I ride his meta first and instantly can feel the weight differance in the two bikes. my first thought is if I had to drag that meta over a 60 km route ....well I just wouldn't. Our normal 20-30km rides with stops in between no problem,but there is no ways that the meta could live with the pascoe over flat out distance. And it ain't because of the wheel size . I was instantly comfortable and confident with the mrp and felt like it has transformed his ride. Am also sure the tyres have a roll to play as well but as soon as that meta pointed downhill it was like it was a bulldozer on rails...I was blown away by the mrp / tyre upgrade,and considering it wasn't my bike and a 26r ( there dead aren't they ? ) I had a huge grin and was laughing to myself every time it pointed slightly downwards. Then I jumped on my pascoe and instantly I could pedal quicker...the first part was straight up. Thinking to myself i should be quicker and more confident on my own bike . I hit the first forest section and was instantly at home on my bike. Come out the forest ride along the path and hit the Rocky road section going down,nothing wrong feels like every other time. Pedal up through the rocks and then hit the fun part of the ride,where is starts to wind down though the loose gravel etc. Get to the bottom ride through the forest and it dawns on me the meta's weight disadvantage made it feel more planted coming down. We lower the pressure for my weight and I go again on the meta. This time the fork,tyres and the whole combination of the bike was gob smacking to say the least. It tracked through comers (so much so that I wacked the pedal whilst cranked over going through a fast sweep,in the forest) with such ease that I just kept pushing it harder and going faster. Bombed it down the Rocky road,and flew over the rocks with out thinking,**** I'm on my mates bikes don't bin it. I couldn't wipe the grin of my face. Don't get me wrong I love my Pyga pascoe and had a fat jol,riding both bikes back to back. We also did timed sections through the forest and the taxi was about 10-15% quicker. Was it the tyres size,possibly but I think so it was the weight factor as much as anything else. The pike is a stunning fork,and so is the mrp. Would have no qualms about putting either on my bike. But the biggest surprise was that I couldn't feel the differance in the wheel size. Sure over long flat fire road type of riding the pascoe would ride away from you. But if you want to point something downhill,damn that meta is a sweet sweet ride. And they say 26r is dead...blah is what I say. Already have a meta am lined up for myself. This is only my personal experience and am a very average rider to say the least. I hope in some small way anyone looking to buy a enduro style bike this will encourage them to take the plunge.