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  1. I am looking for a 120mm Rockshox Sid select/select+/Ultimate fork (35mm stanchions) and manual lock out. Any ideas or leads where I might get one? Open to 2nd hand as well.
  2. Hi All, I have been looking to upgrade from a entry level SR Suntour XCT Coil Fork to an Air Fork on my hardtail. It seems with the global shortage 27,5" forks are hard to come by locally unless you going for something ultra premium or want to ship from overseas. That been said I have seen reviews of 29" Forks on 27" Frame - with continued usage of 27.5" wheels. With there been slight changes to the geometry and handling has anyone does this conversion and can share their experience? I have also done the exercise of putting my bike geometry into a calculator to see what the changes would be like. Ref attachments Based on the results I think it would be fine. Can anyone else offer a review of the results? Bike: Giant Talon 3 - 2019 - 27,5" Small Frame - Coil Fork with 80mm Travel New Fork Option: GIANT SXC-2 29er RRL Fork 100mm Travel (This Fork because of its price point and is featured on the latest versions of the Talon) Many thanks
  3. The last update to RockShox’s Pike, Revelation, Lyrik, and Yari forks was just a change to the C1 air spring with a new foot nut and seal head. I believe this was done as a response to complaints from users that their forks were sagging into the travel and so had less travel than advertised. A 160 mm fork might have been sitting at about 155 mm at rest, for example. RockShox has touted the revision as providing a higher ride height and no wasted travel or dead space. However, suspension specialists (such as Chris Porter and Vorsprung) have pointed out that the C1 seal head creates a smaller negative air chamber, resulting in a less supple start to the travel and less small-bump sensitivity. Their recommendation seems to be to stick to the B1/B2 seal head and enjoy the better grip and sensitivity at the top of the stroke, and stop obsessing over the travel markings on the stanchions. Based on my understanding of how the system works, it’s the longer foot nut of the C1 version that extends the fork out so it has more travel and is riding higher. It is equivalent to fitting a slightly longer air shaft. I can only hypothesise that the seal head was revised in order to reduce the negative air volume so that the fork cannot be extended deep into the negative travel to the extent that insufficient stanchion and bushing overlap become an issue. Is anyone able to confirm this, or correct me, please? If I am right, does that mean that one could use the longer C1 foot nut to get the higher ride height, but combine it with the B1/B2 seal head for the large negative chamber, provided that the fork is not already at the maximum travel for that model? So with a 160 mm air shaft in a Lyrik and a 140 mm air shaft in a Pike this should be fine, and would give the advertised travel but also the superior performance of the larger negative air chamber? Any clarifications, corrections, or references to further reading or explanations are appreciated!
  4. Aimed directly at All Mountain and Enduro riding, the DVO Diamond is an air sprung fork with 130-160mm of travel. The Diamond is available in 27.5" and 29" options. It features a plethora of external adjustments that includes DVO's OTT (Off The Top) negative spring adjust borrowed from its bigger brother the inverted Emerald downhill fork. We've been testing a 27.5" 160mm model for the past 10 months. Click here to view the article
  5. Hi all, i'm looking for a rigid lefty fork. Does anyone know where in SA I can buy one? (I'm hesitant looking abroad but will keep it open as option B). It's for a 29er hardtail MTB. I plan on building a rigid 29er hardtail for gravel grinding and just messing around. If not a lefty rigid fork then where can I look for normal rigid forks? Carbon or aluminium or steel. Tapered or straight steerer Thanks in advance.
  6. Hello hubbers Wonder if anyone has any idea on how to fix my not so big problem... I have a Rockshox Sid SE (2019) with a motion control damper that has a push-to-unlock remote on it. I ride mostly in the unlocked position but when I do decide to lock out the fork and shock, the fork cable doesn't want to release and gets 'sticky'. I give a little tug on the cable at the damper side and it releases but I can feel that there's quite a bit of friction which is obviously why it doesn't spring back. I took the cable out yesterday and removed the top cap and put a little bit of grease on the cap to try alleviate some friction but it didn't help much. Tried to search the web but can't seem to find any help there obviously because it's a new fork and I think it only comes out on the Trek Top Fuel 2019 models (could be wrong). I've attached a picture of the top cap and can load some more this evening. Any help/advice would be gladly appreciated
  7. Hey guys, So I just started pulling apart my 2013 Rockshox Reba off a second hand bike I bought recently. I figured it'd be safe to service it, since I don't know when last/if it was serviced. I opened it up to find whats in the pictures. So.. I know its not as bad as it could be.. but how bad is it? I presume there's nothing I can really do about it aside from ride it until it dies. How worried should I be though? Also, does that bushing look normal? I've never opened a fork so I wasn't sure what to expect, but I was a bit surprised by the green dots. Is this how Rockshox bushings look or are they perhaps after market? Cheers
  8. Has anyone come across a situation where they want a more progressive feel to their fork for for aggressive trail riding and found that said for cannot accept tokens or spacers as with RS & FOX? I have fantastic Suntour Epixon TR (Trail) 15mm thru bolt with 130mm travel on my hardtrail which I am bumping to 140mm but, I want the fork to feel just bit more progressive. Instead of a top cap like RS where you can screw the tokens in to and then add more tokens these have a top cap that has a yellow sponge cylinder that you can cut down to make it less progressive but, you cannot make it longer to add progression. Any ideas on a what could work bearing in mind that this is NOT an open bath system and works with the air cartridge and has no oil in the air chamber as with other brands? The more entry level TK30 Gold and Silver RS forks suffer the same fate along with Suntour Raidon and XCR air forks
  9. Has anyone had any luck figuring out why fox forks aren't returning properly after being locked out?
  10. Unfortunately I get to see the worst of the worst! What is the worst you have ever seen. Thought I would share a couple of photos to illustrate the effect of not servicing your equipment on a regular basis! All that dirt, grit, grime and fine dust creates a very fantastic sanding paper effect!
  11. Hey everyone, I've recently been handed a relatively old Specialized Epic FSR frame, circa 2010. It was a demo frame, so it's in immaculate condition. I've currently got a hard tail Scott, and I getting all my kit moved onto the Epic frame. I'm quite keen on more aggressive riding than most XC frames, so I was curious about making the HT a tad slacker. I'm going to try a 50mm stem, definitely get wider bars. The question is, would putting a spacer between the fork and the bottom of the HT be a bad idea - or even necessary? If it's doable - what sorts of things should I consider? I don't think modifying the fork offset is possible with the Fox (can't remember the model) fork that comes with it...
  12. Hi there, Model Fork: Fox 32 Float Performance w/ 15thru-axle, overdrive steerer, 140mm travel. (I realize this is not a high grade fork and for a 32 at 140mm its not as good as say a 32 at 100mm) Wheels and Tyres: Onza Ibex 2.25 and Giant stock S XC-2 Tyre Pressure front 22/23psi and rear 26psi (up or down a few depending) Fork Pressure: recommended around 75 (set to sag) currently at 95 (reason why below) and shock around 155. Current weight 77.5kg 6 turns from the right (rebound) Running the stock 75mm stem with 760mm bars and one large spacer above. I have been riding for just over a year so Singletrack technique always needs improving. Problem i'm having is down a long section of ST the bike handles great with pro pedal on both fork and shock. Feeling firm but controlled in the front. Body position seems good, elbows bent, weight not too far back and keeping pressure on the front wheel. Switchbacks downhill and cornering good at a decent speed. Keep in mind I have upped the fork pressure to 95 (too high surely?) With that I end a ride with around 3cm or so of space above my spacer no big drops or anything. When I put the fork and shock into fully open here is the problem: I feel way less in control of the front end, the shock compresses pretty deep just leaning on it even at 95 psi and round switchbacks and corners it almost dives into its travel. Feeling sketchy compared to half locked (pro pedal) mode. I have come off the front a few times its dived so much into steep stuff. The bike is a 2016 model and pretty new only a few months 6/7 old. No service to the fork or shock yet. I thought of ordering a volume spacer or two and playing around with that? As I would like to setup the fork based on sag rather than over filling it to 95psi. Otherwise could it just be i'm putting to much weight on the front end around corners? or bad technique? Appreciate the feedback? Thought i'd ask here before taking it in and asking the shop. Sean Fox 32 Float Performance w/ 15mm thru-axle, OverDrive steerer, 140mm travel
  13. Hi, newbie here needing some advice. I want to purchase a 2017 silverback sola 3 mtb, but I can't figure out where the fork places in terms of performance/quality/etc. It just says "Rockshox TK30 29”, 100mm Travel, Tapered Alloy Steerer, Remote PopLoc, QR Dropout" on the specifications. How does this shock compare to other forks like the Recon Gold TK29 and Recon Silver RL 29? Also, I take it, that it is a coil fork? From what I understand air is better, or are the newer coil forks on par again? Any advice would be appreciated, thank you.
  14. Hello all, Hope you guys are doing well. So, my first service for my fork is very near. I am not entirely sure when to service your fork, but I am going with the Fox video I watched which stated after 4 months. My fork will be turning 4 months old on 20 February. My fork: RockShox Reba RLT. Where do you guys service your forks? LBS which I dealt with are CWC, ThisWayOut (but the mechanic moved to EvoBikes) and Trek Bicycles. Asked for a quote today at Trek and it was R450. Is this the going rate? Thanks. Take care. ~ André
  15. Hello everyone, I am 'new' to taking Mtb biking seriously and I just purchased a Lapierre XL 729 Frame. I wish to build it up to a sweet well specified bike starting With the Cannondale Lefty. All advice is highly welcome. Thanks for reading.
  16. I am currently aquiring parts and components to build myself a Touring bike. Today a very good friend from my LBS donated a fairly bent fork to me as I requested believing someone should be able to mend it for me. (see photo) From what I can see, it seems only the one end of the steerer seemes to have bent. Any frame builder or some skilfull fellow in or arround the East Rand area of Gauteng that can get this fork sorted for me? Please kindly advice. ....Or am I on a lost course with this pugsley fork? I hope am not All advice will be seriously appreciated.
  17. Steve Bowman, Fox South Africa brand manager, takes us through a basic fork service. In this video, Steve shows us the process of removing the lower legs, cleaning and checking the fork, and how to reassemble the fork. Click here to view the article
  18. Anyone know of a kiff place to service my pike in Bloem? Tks!
  19. The air spring looks like this :- The oil looks like this:- The stanchions look like this:- I think it's time to go and watch the Rio cycling highlights!
  20. A mountain bike suspension fork requires regular care. Steve Bowman has two simple tips to keep your fork sliding smoothly. Click here to view the article
  21. A mountain bike suspension fork needs regular cleaning and servicing to continue operating optimally without causing damage. If done correctly, your fork should last the life time of the bike. Here's a guide on when you should be servicing your fork and what signs of wear to look out for. Click here to view the article
  22. I'd like to share with you all the simple installation of the : MRP Ramp Control Cartridge https://www.bikehub.co.za/features/_/gear/previews/first-look-friday-scott-spark-volvo-bike-rack-mrp-ramp-control-cartridge-r5683 Designed for: Current-gen Rock Shox Pike, Lyrik, Yari, and Boxxer World Cup forks (Solo-Air models only) Adds speed-sensitive ending-stroke control and bottom-out force adjustability to compatible Rock Shox forks.Just 55 g! Lighter than most air-spring assemblies with more than two tokens.Isolate and tune bottom-out with minimal changes to initial and mid-stroke.Bring your tuning to the trail and out of the workshop!Easy installation requires little time and few tools - no lower-leg removal required! Compatibility:Ramp Control Cartridge Model A ...will fit 2013 and newer Pike forks with 15x100 axle spacing and 2010 and newer Boxxer World Cup (air-sprung) forks. Ramp Control Cartridge Model B ...will fit 2015 and newer Pike forks with "Boost" 15x110 axle spacing, and all 2015 and newer Lyrik and Yari forks (regardless of axle spacing). CUSTOM TUNE ON THE TRAIL Inarguably, convenience is one of the biggest benefits of the Ramp Control cartridge versus internally-accessed volume adjustment components. Internally-accessed spacers aren’t friendly to on-trail experimentation and tuning - requiring bulky tools and a clean environment to utilize. With Ramp Control, experimentation is so simple it’s encouraged! The powerful range of Ramp Control is harnessed through a simple 16-position knob with clearly defined detents. That enables you to arrive at your base setting in just one ride on a familiar trail, whereas internally-accessed spacers would necessitate a trial and error approach - several rides followed by garage or shop sessions - to get to the same point. A BETTER WAY TO TUNE The volume adjustment spacers used by competing brands change the shape of the air-spring’s curve throughout the entire travel range, regardless of velocity. Aside from the slight change resulting from the volume of the cartridge itself, the Ramp Control upgrade effects only the ending stoke spring curve - as its damping effect is velocity-dependent. This portion of the curve represents intense, sharp hits and big events, like landing a sizable drop or plowing through a rock garden. Without Ramp Control, your fork’s behavior in these circumstances has been compromised by your desired feel elsewhere in the stroke. With Ramp Control, you can tune the general feel of your fork through its air-pressure and damper settings, and isolate big-hit performance and bottom-out with the Ramp Control adjustment. NO MORE COMPROMISES, TUNE TO THE TRAIL AT HAND Unless you ride just one trail, the air-spring volume you’ve so carefully tuned with internally-accessed volume spacers is probably not ideal for all your adventures. A trip to the bike park might reveal, for example, that more support would be welcomed when the features and drops get bigger and trails get steeper than those found on your local go-to. If you have extra spacers and the necessary tools on hand, and don’t mind burning time that could otherwise be spent riding the lift-accessed terrain you just paid for, you could get the needed support. Or, in just seconds, you could add more Ramp Control and keep the good times going. Whether it’s a new-school flow trail or near vertical DH course, Ramp Control gives you immediate control of the terrain at hand - of particular benefit to time-crunched enduro fans tasked with practicing and racing multiple, varying stages. "With Ramp Control, initial and mid-stroke feel is largely unaffected by your level of adjustment - unlike tuning with volume spacers. It enables you to isolate and greatly control required bottom-out force, and experiment with damper and air-pressure settings to achieve your desired performance in the rest of the stroke." Feel free to contact me for info Happy Trails
  23. Hey fellow hubbers, A question for the fork gurus: I was wondering if 26er RS fork components are interchangeable, I have a broken Revelation lower ( broken arch and dropout) and wanted to know if a Reba lower would work with the Revelation crown and stanchions? Thanks, Dale
  24. Calling something a game-changer is most often just marketing talk, but when RockShox released the new Pike in 2013 it did just that - it changed the game. Along came a fork that seemingly offered it all at a time when Enduro racing was booming. Click here to view the article
  25. So, I have a 2014 Rocky Thunderbolt with Fox (32) CTD 120mm up front. So far I have found this fork to be pretty much the only limitation to this brilliant do it all bike for me at the moment. (Refer to an old topic here, not going to go into all the details of why i think this fork sucks, but in essence its a bit floppy: https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/156825-what-sag-are-you-running-on-your-trail-bike/ ) I considered upgrading the damper on the 2014 Fox to the newer FIT4 damper on recommendation from some folks, but having had some experience now with FIT4 on my other (XC) bike, and its pretty much non-existent small bump compliance, I am thinking of ditching FOX altogether and taking the plunge on a Rockshox fork. I am not very well versed with Rockshox forks as all my previous bikes had Foxes. So please help me choose a suitable fork. So far what i have found to (perhaps) be compatible are: Pike 650b 130mm Revelation 650b 130mm Reba 650b 120mm What i can deduct from the RS website is that the Reba is 32mm and for XC (thus possibly ruled out), while the Revelation is a 32mm trail fork (most likely closest to what I currently have in the Fox) and the Pike is a 35mm AM fork. The 35mm Pike obviously comes at a slight weight penalty (don't care), but what are the significant differences in "feel" between these forks? Travel is mostly the same, so there must be something else in terms of adjustability and/or feel that sets them apart? I use this bike mostly for trail riding, however lately i have started pushing perhaps a bit into the Enduro domain (though I wouldn't say that I'm far into that domain, my abilities are not really that good yet). Saying that, this fork will see pretty much standard trail use probably 70% of the time, should be stiff (the opposite of my current Fox!), predictable, handle corners well and handle small bumps well at high speed (i.e. stick to the trail like stink on dog-sh!t when stuff gets hairy...). Please chime in and help me decide!
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