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Still trying my hand for my very first build project. Converting a 2010 Cannondale Trail F4 SL MTB to a “gravel bike”. Think its more like trying to get it the same as my Giant ATX 760 in the 90’s with a rigid fork. Anyway, I digressed. Need to get reducer cups or new headset to be able to fit new fork (1.5” to tapered or 1 1/8). Was thinking Cane Creek 40something Done the research: asking to confirm that I got the type right please? What type of headset is it? There are three types of headset, IS (Integrated System), EC (External Cup) and ZS (Zero Stack). Integrated headsets have the bearing cups pre-built into the head tube. You simply drop the bearings in and you're away (This isn't the Cannondale Trail SL). External cup headsets are pressed into the frame (commonly also known as press-fit headsets) and the bearings sit outside of the frame. Zero stack headsets are the half-way house. They are pressed into the frame and the bearing is generally within the frame too. From the images of my bike I would say Zero Stack. That right? Thanks!

I am currently aquiring parts and components to build myself a Touring bike. Today a very good friend from my LBS donated a fairly bent fork to me as I requested believing someone should be able to mend it for me. (see photo) From what I can see, it seems only the one end of the steerer seemes to have bent. Any frame builder or some skilfull fellow in or arround the East Rand area of Gauteng that can get this fork sorted for me? Please kindly advice. ....Or am I on a lost course with this pugsley fork? I hope am not All advice will be seriously appreciated.

Howdy Hubbers, First off, I'm going to ask silly questions, if you're unable to help, please don't comment with rubbish as I'm trying my first ever build since swapping BMX frames in high school. Right, so I have a donor bike which is a Silverback Sierra 26" (Assuming a 2010 - 2012 region model), I bought her used a year ago after my entry lever Silverback Slade 4 650b was no longer doing the trick for me and upgrading components would have costs more in the end, unfortunately the frame was a bit bent at the right chainstay (I bent her straight and rode like that for a year until now) Then this week, I bought a Mongoose Meteore Comp Frame 26" G7 alloy, the frame is in amazing condition but I have no idea of the year model. So in my innocence I assumed it would be a simple swap between two 26er frames, this was not to be as I found out after stripping the Silverback almost bare (excluding the BB as I'm still deciding on buying a tool or not) * My first issue I bumped into was the Seatpost Diameter - this was sorted by picking a used one up from a friend, easy peasy. * 2nd issue: The headset diameters seem to differ, the silverback is a 44mm and the mongoose looks like it used just over 41mm headset It never came with headset caps so now I need to know, where do I get caps from and do I buy new bearings too? When taking the old setup apart, the top of the headset used a cartridge bearing and the bottom had a loose pack bearing with a little plastic frame to hold them (this was a surprise as I spent some time hunting down all the bearings after them spilling out when I removed the fork) Can I at the same time "upgrade" the headset to take the cartridge top and bottom or do I stick to the current setup? There are also several of these metal and plastic o-ring type of things, should these be replaced too (and what order do they go back in, I forgot because I was chasing bearings across the floor)? Further upgrades I'm planning. 1. Upgrade rear derailleur to a Shimano Zee with a 10 spd shifter (on back order) 2. Upgrade to a 10 spd casette (will deore be fine or is slx the way, 36t or 34t?) 3. Ergo - fit bike setup and new saddle (looking at the WTB options) So that's where I'm stuck at the moment, where to go next, any other issues to look out for?

I'm struggling to find out what headset my scott 910 (2013) needs. If you can help I would appreciate it a lot. Thanks

Sorry, this is very weaksauce......I'm trying to change my upper assembly, it's 34mm inner frame diameter. Anyone know if this is the correct frame dimension for my One-Twenty? I bought this guy http://www.pro-bikegear.com/en-gb/catalogue/accessories/103/headsets/prhs0031_main/cartridge-headset-upper but the old upper race seems to not want to come out of my frame. I currently have an FSA cone-type one, very much like this (in fact, maybe the same one) http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/headsets/fsa-dlr-ie-headset/ Weird, because I don't have a tapered steerer. Sooooo.....my question: I only took out the top cap, dust cover, compression ring and cartridge bearing. Should i keep yanking things out of the frame for the PRO to fit, cause the PRO doesn't fit right now.

Hi can you buy these kind of headset bearings at BMG ? http://2share.co.za/Files/ebc49ff1-487d-416e-b9b7-ebe401bb1715Capture.JPG also what is difference between OD:52xID:40xH:7xA:36 OD:52xID:40xH:7xA:45 This is according to Specailized Epic Manual http://2share.co.za/Files/87d76eed-bb7e-4ce0-974f-e6a1165a6d11Capture1.JPG

Hi Hubbers and Hubbetes I need your advice please, so i decide to up my riding and get a newish frame after riding Scott for "jaare". so i purchased an Axis A80 from a fellow hubber, but now i am a bit stumped Axis and Scott are similar products, and i am moving most of my components over. The Axis says Headset: VP DROP IN/ PRESS FIT. Currently i have a Ritchey headset on the Scott and yes i am a NOOB when it comes to headsets, i have refurbished older bikes but building a newer one is "different". so would i need to replace the crown race on my forks or would i have to take the ritchey's off and onto the axis! Please help!! Thanks

Has anybody else had bad service from the Service Department at Cycle Lab Fourways? I can't believe how shoddy their workmanship is. I took my bike in for a headset and BB service on 25 November 2014. One week later the crank arm moved off the spline as it wasn't torqued to spec. I had to cycle about 20km home with one crank as I was alone and it was during office hours. I complained about it at the shop and the technician on duty at the time informed me that he has heard similar complaints about this technician in the past... If that wasn't bad enough, this week I felt that my headset was loose and took it to my local bike shop, Johnson's Cycles in Edenvale. Ken told me that there was dirt and corrosion in the headset and had to do a full clean and relube. Basically I had to pay another bike shop for something I already paid Cycle Lab to do. I then called Cycle Lab to ask them for a refund for the work that I paid them for but was not done adequately. Apparently a decision was taken by top management that it was too late for a refund as 5 months is far too long for a headset and BB service to last. The best that they could offer was a bike wash and lube...as if I would ever take my bike to their workshop again! They also said that if I brought the matter to their attention so that they could see the issues, they would have redone/refunded me immediately; just a warning to everyone out there. It seems that this is a really unprofessional outfit and that they have much to learn in the way of customer service; I gave the workshop manager, "Ido," ample opportunity to restore my situation or compensate me in some meaningful way, but he refused to play ball. Cycle Lab have lost a customer and I will inform my local club and my friends not to support this business.

I have recently bought a Scott addict R2 frame and some new carbon forks but I can't work out which headset will fit. Ideally I would like a cane creek 40 series but I have looked at the sizing and I have no idea. If cane creek don't fit something around that price range is great. I attached the sizing of the forks.

Hi all...the Scott genius 940 comes with a tapered Ritchley headset that has a sealed cartridge bearing in the top and old unsealed roller bearing in the bottom..I'm looking at replacing the at the cheapest option ...which is just the bottom bearing with matching crown-race. Any of you done this...bearing will be a tapered 55/61

I am finalising a build for a Momsen hardtail, I am considering the following headset for the bike "Hope Tapered Integral ZS44 - ZS56 Headset (1.1/8 - 1.5 tapered)". I am going to purchase through chain reaction so don't want to get it wrong. TWT suggest the following size "semi-integrated 44/55 headset" but I can't seem to find the same sizing anywhere - I am assuming that Momsen uses a standard 1.1/8-1.5 tapered steerer tube but would like some confirmation. If you ask why a Hope headset - the aim is to put decent components on and build a lightweight steed. If anyone has experience with the headset which TWT (Two Wheels Trading) offer and can offer comparative advice it would be appreciated Thanks for your input & advice Jean-Pierre

Please assist me if posible, I took my beautifull Inbred out for her maiden ride over the weekend, and it all went pretty good until I experience sthe steering not working so lekker. Stopped, and tested the steering, noticing it is binding quite a bit, with a bit of what feels like grinding happening inside of the headset. Loosend the whole thing up a wee bit and rode back to the car. By the time I got there it was binding quite a bit again. Without me opening the headset I was hoping to troubleshoot some of the things i need to look out for when I Take the whole thing apart. Was it lack of 'lube? Incorrect installation? mis-alignment of parts perhaps? Looking forward to some 'ub(b)er expertise....

So i'm keen on getting a new MTB AM hardtail frame but it comes with a fully integrated headset, I've seen road bike bearings flopping around the frame, But usually caused by exterior damage. Do the MTB integrated frames LAST?? If they are maintained correctly and what not.