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Found 7 results

  1. Hi all, new to the forum. First, not sure if there's already a recent discussion on this. If yes, pls post the link. Second, I'm a "SIMPLE CYCLIST". I don't do races, not a "Vinnige Fanie", I'm not one for all the bells and whistles. I'm just a guy who likes to go for a ride now and again, who doesn;t want the "best of the best", I just need something functional, with a decent lifespan. Issue: Having to change my ball bearings on front wheel more often. No sign of dust seal. No 22mm cone spanner to tighten unit I have a Titan Drone Dash 29'er MTB, bought used about a year ago - details I have are below. It has a BOOST fork, Fusion-X RC32 (110mm) It has ball bearings (they call it "cup and cone"?). I have re-done the bearings once or twice, but recently I had to do it more often. Main reasons are: - I noticed no dust cover (don't think it came with one). - I don't have the proper thin 22mm cone spanner so that I can tighten the two nuts on the hub/cone/Thru-axle "thing" (whatever that piece is called). Meaning, I suspect that dust is getting into the bearings, as it only lasts about 300-500km before I need to replace again. I'm sure the sand is slowly messing up the bearing cones too. I was told by a bike mechanic that many bikes came out with these standard hubs, but I can't recall what the name of the hub was. The Titan agents don't seem to have the seal kit (huh?!), so they suggested I get a new hub (ka-ching $$$ ??) I want to possibly convert to sealed bearings, but have a few questions / comments - I'm told roller bearings are better, They can handle loads better, especially when you are turning corners, leaning, etc. they can take a better weight distribution, or support. Sealed bearings are very rigid and "stiff", meaning it cannot handle the pressures as well as roller bearings. As a "simple cyclist, I'm not sure whether I should worry about this, and just try get sealed bearings? - Is it possible to knock out these "cones/cups" on the inside of my hub, and simply replace it with bearings? Is there a bearing that could fit? Will my through-Axle still work? I do have some of those thinner thru-axles, like the old bikes had ..... - Is there another option without having to change the hub, re-spoke the wheel, and go through all that drama? I was quoted over R1500 for a DEORE hub (not sure what type), which is about a third of what i paid for the whole bike LOL (And is the above even worth it? How long will bearings last? Can I change them myself?) - With us riding through water etc., do sealed bearings get rusted easily? Do they last longer? - Are sealed bearings easy to replace yourself? - Should I just try get another rim which has a hub and sealed bearings? - Is sealed bearings the easiest? Are there other bearing options out there which are simple? - Anyone who has done something similar with minimal headache? - Anyone with a seal kit?? - I want to have something that is simple. Something I can possibly fix myself if the bike conks out on a weekend, or if I am away somewhere with no bike shop around, etc. - I stay in Alberton, South of Joburg I also need a 22mm cone spanner which I can get off Takealot I guess. Cape Multi don't have the ParkTool 22mm, and most other shops don't stock that size (PS - Anyone have one laying around??) Titan Drone Dash 29'er Year: no idea, said to be around 2015-2018 or so 2 x 9 chainring Air shock/fork. Fusion-X RC32 BOOST fork (110mm) Thanks!, Paul "madporra"
  2. I got a new xd drive in December for my hope 4 pro and the green seal that is meant to protect the teeth isn’t sitting flat. When I spin my wheel one sided the seal always just shows and then go away on the rotation, is this normal or not? I’m just worried dirt gets in and damages the teeth and hub. If you can help it would be very appreciated. Francois
  3. From our very first Ti-glide hubs launched back in 1993 we've have had a reputation for producing some of the most durable and high quality hubs on the market. This attention to detail has been carried into the new Pro 4 hub range as they are a direct development of the successful Pro 2 EVO. Click here to view the article
  4. Hi all, As the title states I have no idea how to determine what my rear hub specifications are. My rear hub bearings still spin like new, but there is an off-balance somewhere with the rear wheel area. When I lift the back and step the pedal, the wheel spins well, but the bike rocks up an down slightly when holding it in the air. I tried searching the forum for hub and rear hub but to no avail. Could someone please advice me how to determine my current hub specifications and which of these are important to keep in mind when buying a new hub. I know the hub has the extra part for the disc brake rotor. It says "American Classic" on the hub I haven't counted the spoke-holes as I'm unsure if there are special things that needs to be taken note of. EDIT- added: Its a new tyre with a new slime tube (well, it rocks heavily whether I have the road slicks on or the mtb tyres). A spoke was recently replaced and therefore the whole wheel was trued.
  5. Hey guys and gals Want to put your own flavour to your bike or equipment ? Let me help you ! I specialise in Airbrushing and my passion is paint and adding colour to whatever. So give me a call on 0837340269.
  6. Following the discusiion on the Trek / Penske thread I thought I'd start a new one on the Boost148 "standard". Bikeradar have just published an article with more info on it http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/news/article/trek-and-sram-roll-out-wider-axle-standard-41352/ http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/news/2014/06/13/1402615772146-ao0yv51uzn7z-320-180.jpg
  7. Hello, I've got a "sticky" front axle, and the wheel is difficult to rotate. Spinning the wheel freely - off the bike - it rolls smoothly and noiselessly. Once I put the wheel in place and lock the axle in place, the wheel is difficult to spin. If I loosen the axle a bit, the wheel spins normally. But, then it is loose and not safe to ride. What could be the problem?
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