Nuffy Posted January 11, 2017 Share I have a set of Crank Brothers Candy 1s, and the bearing on one of them has failed. This has happened a couple of times before and I’ve got rebuild kits and just replaced the inners. Frustrating, but no problem. This time, however, I can’t get the outer bearing race out of the plastic pedal body. I’m damaging the plastic threads trying to use a screwdriver and other things to pry it out. Any suggestions? Is it possible to push out the sleeve that the spring and wings sit on? If I can get this out then maybe I can find something the right diameter to knock out the bearing race from the inboard side. Are current Crank Brothers pedals still using this same basic internal design? It seems a bit ridiculous to me that that tiny little cartridge bearing is the only thing holding the pedal together, and when it fails (which, as I said, has happened several times to me) you have to ride home with the pedal sliding off the axle. I love the external design and wing system of my Candys (I have a set of 3s as well), but I’m seriously considering moving over to Shimano DX or similar. How does their bearing system compare? Is there at least something that’ll hold the pedal together if the bearings wear or fail? Are the cleats more hard-wearing than the Crank Brothers ones, which seem a little soft to me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MphatiPyga Posted January 11, 2017 Share I have moved from Candy's to Shimano trail pedals due to the same reason. I liked the Candy's due to the wing as well, but actually now find that the Shimanos platform feel better to me, feel more connected and efficient somehow. I have also dialed in the release pressure/angle to suite me better. Only issue I have had so far was on a very muddy ride where the Candy's might have shed the mud better. Apparently the Shimano system is more fit and forget whereas I was putting service kits on the Candy's at least once a year. So imho Shimano where cheaper and better in the long run, just don't go xtr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JXV Posted January 11, 2017 Share Your pedal would have gone wobbly long before the bearing wore down so much that the balls fell out allowing the inner to separate from the outer. Running maintenance for Candys includes regular inspection for play and regular flushing of the grease by replacing the end cap with the grease port and using a grease gun to displace old grease with new. Once the bearing gets free play the pedal wobbles on the shaft and this quickly damages the shaft seal, accelerating the deterioration. The stuck bearing race should come out easily but may now have corroded in place. The metal versions of Candy have two parts to the pedal body which can be unscrewed. I'm guessing the plastic body Candy1 is the same. When you separate the body halves the inner sleeve, spring and wings can be removed, you should then be able to drive out the inner. The other way is to beg, borrow or steal a slide hammer with expanding collets and use this to extract.... Like MphatiPyga I have also changed to Shimano trail pedals. They are not as good in mud as the Candys but the platform is more supportive and they need a bit less maintenance. I have the XTR version which has smaller shaft diameter than the others and needs more care. I just stripped and rebuilt them last weekend. Much more finicky inside than Candys. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuffy Posted January 11, 2017 Share Thanks for the replies and advice. I think you’re right, JXV: the outer race seems to have corroded in place. Serves me right for leaving them sitting for so long after the bearing failed. I’ve been using my other set of Candy 3s on my one bike with cleats, but now I want a set on another bike, so I dug out these Candy 1s to get them going again. Looks like I’ll have to stick with flats for a bit longer. Unfortunately the Candy 1s have a one-piece plastic body, so it can’t be separated like the metal ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Marshall Posted January 11, 2017 Share You really need a blind hole puller. Depending on the hole diameter you might get lucky. The smallest in my set is 8mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JXV Posted January 11, 2017 Share You can try pouring some phosphoric acid (rust dissolver) to loosen it. Use coke as a substitute but the phosphoric acid content in coke is a bit weak for serious rust dissolution. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuffy Posted January 11, 2017 Share Thanks all. I’ll see what tools and solvents I can find! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12man Posted January 11, 2017 Share Thanks all. I’ll see what tools and solvents I can find!heat might help too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JXV Posted January 11, 2017 Share Thanks all. I’ll see what tools and solvents I can find!If you do go the acid route just make there are no other metal parts in there ....only the acid and the rusty bearing shell and the plastic pedal body. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Edited January 11, 2017 by JXV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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