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seized bolts, etc


quickdraw

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I am busy trying to add some life to my cousin's Tomac Revolver, unfortunately there are two serious looking things.

The top shock mounting bolt appears to have dug itself in for WW2 and the hex bolt's head is starting to round off with attempts to loosen it. Does anyone know of a place in CT that can drill it out?

The second thing is the shock itself (Manitou swinger 3-way) appears to have some deep corrosion spots on the sleeve (white powdery and seems to go quite deep into the metal (I scraped most of it away) - should the shock be replaced? I will try and get some pics up tomorrow.

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I don't live in Cape Town so I cant give you specific directions. However, any mechanic can remove the bolt for you. It will be a destructive operation though and you'll have to replace the bolt and the star nut.

As for the other question? What do you mean by "sleeve"?

Visible is only the crown, the stanchions and the slider. Which one has the corrosion?

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Hi Johan,

 

It is the rear shock - the top shock mounting bolt slides through the one side and screws directly into the the mount on the other side (it is a single bolt and not the male/female type).

 

The "sleeve" (forgive my terminology) is the basically just the outer casing of the shock (If it was a suspension fork then on the slider close to where it meets the stanchion) - will get those pics up.
quickdraw2009-02-17 13:51:16
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Oh OK. In that case it is just a bit of Cape corrosion on the aluminium housing. Not serious there. If you want to arrest it, scrape it out, sand it down and coat it with some paint.

Sea air is terrible for a bicycle and worse for cars. That's why I live in Gauteng....ha ha..

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Thanks, that is a bit of good news. Do you think the bolt can be removed without damaging the frame?

 

As stated passes through mount on one side, through the bushings and shocks eye and screws into the ount on the other side.
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Yes, with patience and a cunning plan, as Baldrich would say, anything can be removed safely.

I would approach the problem in one of many ways.

1) If the steerer is steel and it is open at the bottom, I would force the star nut upwards with a make-shift punch and large hammer. If it is aluminium, I'll be more cautious.

2) I'll drill the bolt's head right out and remove the top cap and deal with the remaining stump once I have the fork off. It is a 6mm bolt so you have some meat to work with. Remember, the top cap is a consumable, if it gets graunched in the process you can replace it.

3) Depending on my options, I would try and strip the star nut buy tightening the bolt, not loosening it. The drawback is if the bolt strips, then it may be even more difficult to remove since it might have some thread below the star nut. I'm confident the star nut will strip first though, perhaps even pull out.

 

 

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Link engineering in Woodstock will sort it out for you, they've worked on my bikes before today and are pretty switched on. Will PM details as soon as I find them.

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This is the bolt that is used to mount the rear shock onto the frame?

I am clearly fast asleep. I think you have all the advice you require.

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