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  1. The internet is full of people giving (and following) terrible advice, so I'd rather try to be a local source of slightly better. (Also when someone tries it themselves and runs out of talent they know where to find me)
  2. Yup, we've still got one. Thanks Charl.
  3. Ok, so it's the check valve on the other end of the hose before the gauge. In that case OE is probably the only way to go if you need spares. I'd strip and relube it as a starting point, sometimes it's just the check valve that gets stuck open or closed. I use RS Dynamic Seal Grease on mine cos I've got heaps of it, but any light grease should do the job.
  4. You can get new hoses and chucks from a few places, I've just replaced the one on my hundred year old track pump. Nut sure if this is what you're looking for though. Lezyne spares are pretty easy to get hold of when the agents have stock.
  5. Ultrasonic and hot wax is a whole different ball game though, which completely negates any issues with the inside of the chain not being lubed. It's more or less how chains are lubed at the factory. The average oke saying degrease with petrol is most likely going to just bosh on another layer of <insert coin> possibly before it's dry and bollocks their chain up in half the time they would have if they'd just left the factory lube on. I've never had the patience for boiling a chain, but this thread may well make me try it.
  6. Correct. The surface area of the 4 pistons combined is the same as the 2 on the 2 pots.
  7. Growling under load? Probably chainsuck. Look at the bottom of your chainring while riding up a hill, if it's not letting go you'll see the bottom of the chain flapping around. Usually goes away after a few rides, if not then replace your chainring.
  8. Check your rotors first, some Shimano OE rotors are resin only. OE or generic won't make a massive difference if you get decent generics, but the OE pads are cheap enough.
  9. I agree with both Headshot and Eldron - it's super sticky and attracts gunk, but it's also really effective inside the chain. I soak a rag in isopropyl and clean the gunk off the outside, but I leave the factory stuff inside to do its job and seal it in with a dry lube. Takes a long time for it to wash out, even in the wet. The problem with washing the factory lube out from between the rollers is that it's very difficult to get a wax lube to penetrate all the way in afterwards unless you do the whole boiling thing, which is a bit of a hack. If you don't mind a slightly grubby chain, an oil based lube will penetrate way better and give you far better chain life.
  10. Lever feel will be very different - but this is good, those 445 levers are about as long as Hobie tillers and feel like utter poo. As far as I've seen the caliper pistons on all Shimano brakes have the same surface area, which means they all need the same amount of fluid to work properly. This means that you can use any Shimano lever (and as Jewbacca said, even Magura work).
  11. 90% of the time the problem is between the saddle and the bars...
  12. My source is all the seized M785 / M8000 levers in my lever graveyard. It's not an endless supply, but I haven't run out yet.
  13. Shimano levers and calipers all work together. Swap away. And as a bonus the lever sets are cheap as chips, if you can find them. (Assuming you're talking about swapping complete lever assemblies and not just the blades, cos that probably won't work.)
  14. If I had to give up my Codes I'd run the Deore 4 pots. Definitely the best of the budget brakesets out there. If you ride hard you'll be doing a lot of bleeding, but it's a reasonably simple job - get a bleed cup and some oil when you buy them, and watch Marshy's Shimano bleed video.
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