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Noob brake lever questions


SeaBee
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Disclaimer - I take no responsibility for anybody cracking ribs or pulling something laughing at these questions. This is what happens from allowing roadies to be persuaded to embrace the dark side!

 

Been for a setup and some stuff was changed radically - and definately for the better. Since then I have only been on the bike this weekend to find two thing irritating me about the brake levers.

 

So firstly, how do I set the levers (both) to "bite" a bit earlier. I asked for it to bite a bit later and it felt fine sitting still. Riding, it now feels way too late and I know it should be simple to change - but where exaclty?!

 

And furthermore the rear lever seems at times a bit sticky and don't release smoothly. Not very often - and first time it's happened I was aware of it and "checked" for it since by braking and pushing back with one finger when I release. So that said, it may have happened frequently if I did not do that... Either way - what can I do about that?!

 

Now's the time to stop laughing, pick yourselves up from under your chairs and wipe your eyes... Wasn't as if I didn't warn you. Confused

 

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*urgh*... comes from being in a rush! Sorry for detail lacking.

 

Disk, mtb (Merida 96 3000). Cable brakes AFAIK.

 

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Must be hydraulic on that bike. Any idea on the specific type of brakes? Will need more info to help. They all work slightly differently.

 

 

 

There are two different adjustments, the 'reach' and 'bite point'. The reach is the distance from the lever to the bar, while the 'bite' is the distance that the lever must move for the pads to make contact.

 

 

 

On some brakes, the 'bite point' is only adjustable by adding or removing brake fluid, others have an adjustable screw/knob etc for this.

 

 

 

The lever 'reach' can be adjusted usually by a setscrew somewhere on the lever.

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Okay, another dumb-azzed one - how do I know if it's hydraulic?!

 

Reach is fine. It just bites very late.

 

The brakes are Magura Louise, if that helps...

 

Again - sorry for the stupid questions and I know I'm totally throwing my name away, but this is a new learning curve.

 

New bike, as you may have gathered.Embarrassed So not cables that's dirty or something like that. If it continues, I will take it in and have them look at that. (The bike did stand still for about 2 months whilst I was injured, but doubt whether that would've done much damage!)

 

SeaBee2010-03-23 08:08:36

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Okay' date=' another dumb-azzed one - how do I know if it's hydraulic?!

 

[/quote']

 

Yours are definitely hydraulic. But when you squeeze the lever, if nothing external on the caliper appears to move then its hydraulic. Cable-discs have an external hinged bit that the cable pulls to actuate the brakes.

 

 

 

The brakes are Magura Louise' date=' if that helps...

 

[/quote']

 

In that case sorry man, can't help you with that, no experience with Maguras.

 

 

 

 

If it continues' date=' I will take it in and have them look at that.

 

[/quote']

 

Just take it in if its not too much trouble. Disc brakes can be a major headache unless you have all the tools and the patience to work them out.

 

 

 

 

Again - sorry for the stupid questions and I know I'm totally throwing my name away' date=' but this is a new learning curve.

 

[/quote']

 

No worries man, asking questions is the first step to learning smiley1.gif parabola2010-03-23 08:14:21

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Thanks parabola. In the meanwhile, google was my friend and I found the manual pdf. Now this is downright dangerous!

 

However, I have learnt I have never (and wasn't told about it...) properly "braked in" the brakes - just went out and used it. Says I'm supposed to do about 30 stops from 30kph+ to get everything settled. Now that was news...

 

Also learnt about a little red thingy we idly stood and twisted and wonder what the heck that is for... That seems to be what they call the BAT - Bite adjust technology... lefty loosey, righty tighty... Wonder whether it's the actual bite point (in the lever arch) or the sharpness of the bite it adjusts.

 

Will play around a bit... Thanks for all the input!

 

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On some brakes' date=' the 'bite point' is only adjustable by adding or removing brake fluid, others have an adjustable screw/knob etc for this.[/quote']

 

 

 

Are you sure about that? (It's a question, not a challenge.)

 

 

 

I ask because while I don't know from bike brakes, I do know from car brakes, which are also hydraulic. Adding fluid to the reservoir on a car just means more fluid in the reservoir, not more fluid between the master and slave cylinders. Do bike hydraulic brakes really work differently?

 

 

 

(And there's almost certainly a MTB in my future, so I need to learn this stuff anyhoo.)

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