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Posted

You can use a heavy duty oven cleaner. Read More Here

1. Clean the part, just not warm soapy water, then flush with plain water.

2.Put the part in a glass container with the pat.

3.Cover with the oven cleaner and wait a few minutes, you should see the 'color' bleeding off.

4.Rinse off oven cleaner, clean with a brush and see where you stand.

5. Repeat until clean/shiny.

 

Note: I didn't know this and used Brasso to try and polish the aluminum up, bad mistake... don't use Basso. I've read you can get a aluminium polishing compound. I used 1500g paper, then rubbing compound then car polish, ended you looking like a mirror. My alu silverback is going to be polished like that when the DB is rideable.

Posted

You can use a heavy duty oven cleaner. Read More Here

1. Clean the part, just not warm soapy water, then flush with plain water.

2.Put the part in a glass container with the pat.

3.Cover with the oven cleaner and wait a few minutes, you should see the 'color' bleeding off.

4.Rinse off oven cleaner, clean with a brush and see where you stand.

5. Repeat until clean/shiny.

 

Note: I didn't know this and used Brasso to try and polish the aluminum up, bad mistake... don't use Basso. I've read you can get a aluminium polishing compound. I used 1500g paper, then rubbing compound then car polish, ended you looking like a mirror. My alu silverback is going to be polished like that when the DB is rideable.

 

Thanks - Why not warm soapy water, or did I mis-read?

 

Does the frame need a clear coat afterwards and if it does what works best?

Posted

I would clear coat it, alu is pretty soft so scratches show up really quick. Not sure about your question thee of "why not warm water"? I think you could get it powder coated clear after that, not 100% sure about that.

Posted

I got some of the products mentioned early in the posts and tried them out over the weekend. At the end of the day, they all worked pretty much the same, none really working any better than the rest, the gasket remover seemed like it was doing the best, but really just softened the coat like the rest. I ended up just using a Plascon product to finish off since I had plenty left over from a past job.

 

This with the plascon product, it's like gel that you put on really thickly. The instructions said to leave for 15 minutes at a time, I found ten minutes actually worked best.

 

post-6116-0-84344500-1294056523.jpg

 

After the 10 minutes, the coat softened enough to start scraping off. After loads of different tools, I settled on a paint scrapped that I sharpened up and a razor blade. Took about 3 coats of the plascon gel to get down to almost bare metal.

 

post-6116-0-43980100-1294056776.jpg

Posted

Oven cleaner is the easiest way to remove colour ano. I did this to many of my sons bike parts in December in order to polish them before they went back to the anodisers for diff colours. Ano shows up ALL imperfections, so the better the raw finish, the better the new colour result. You can have the parts re anodised bright silver... If not, you are going to be polishing a lot if you dont put a anti tarnish spray or similar over the raw alu..

 

As for powder coating. This is the second year that I am changing the colour of my sons bike (alu). Last year, the alu frame got somewhat hammered by the sandblasting process and in turn the powder was not smooth at all. This wasnt a problem as the powder was lightly sanded and a clear coat was applied once the new decals had been put on the frame.. The gloss and shine came from the 3 coats of clear coat.

 

This year I did not want it sand blasted again, so used a paint stripper from builders, dura something or other. Worked like a champ after 2 applications.

 

On cro moly or normal steel, the sand blasting doesnt normaly affect the finish and a excellent powder coat is normally obtained. I have had many steel and cro mo items powdered and have never been dissapointed. A lot depends on the chap doing the application though...

Posted

Once I got the worst of it off, I got some 180g wet paper and started sanding with some soapy water. The left over paint was coming off really easy but I was going through paper quickly as it clogged up fast.

 

post-6116-0-59002200-1294056912.jpg

 

After a good couple of hours, this is the result of 180g. Will go faster from this point though.

 

post-6116-0-91343500-1294057000.jpg

 

After all this I think it will be far better to just sandblast or get a spraypainter to dip the frame. I don't mind chemically stripping myself, but it is a pain, literally since I got plenty on my hands and the odd drop on my face, ouch.

Posted

Heat , buy a paint sripper gun heavy duty type.but will mess the frame coating as well

If your patient you will also be able to release the pin by heating and dosing the joint with penerating oil,or WD40 type product .

Thk goodness for steel , very robust ,dont try it on CARBON unless you have good life assurance

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