Caerus Posted March 1, 2011 Share this was like a soapy, the dude did not report back Change of tactic, waiting on a new wheelbuild, then will do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaKa Posted March 2, 2011 Share it is alot easier with tbless specf rims, use a compressor if possible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAAD4 Posted March 2, 2011 Share That is why I buy yellow Stan's tape and tubeless valves and take them to my lbs to do. They know what to do to get them to seal and insert the OKO. Both wheels done for under 200 bucks and I don't waste ridiculous time playing messy experiments in my house. None of my non tubeless rims or tyres have given me any hassles so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tubeless Posted March 2, 2011 Share Change of tactic, waiting on a new wheelbuild, then will do it If you have enough money for a rebuild, why did you not take your wheel to the LBS in the first place? Nice story though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted March 2, 2011 Share If you have enough money for a rebuild, why did you not take your wheel to the LBS in the first place? Nice story though. Was trying to use an old set of wheels(2002) I had, I also didn't like what they looked like and are pretty heavy, but just wanted to see if it would be ok. I was going to have too eventually get another set, so I hijacked the missus new ones as she is too busy with work at the moment to ride(happy days for me). I also just wanted to learn to do it myself, I would rather have the money to spend on other bits & pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Travis. Posted March 2, 2011 Share Caerus, you should've just gone the ghetto tubeless route. I did it the first time in December and it's still holding with non-UST Rocket Rons and cheap rims. The 20" tube works really well as you basically seal the tyre "inside" the tube - meaning the tyre doesn't have any contact with the rim. I just watched the videos and did it first time - with some spillage at home - and helped a mate where we did the spillage at the garage I'm not saying Stans or Joes systems are crappy, but just saying the 20" tube can hardly fail... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted March 2, 2011 Share This valve is seriously *** It will virtually always leakCommon sense says trying to seal a round hole with a square plug is really stoopid Buy a Stans valve Never had a problem on my other wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted March 15, 2011 Share Ok so got the tyres to inflate on my new wheelset build, but I had to leave the bike for almost 3 days without riding it, came home to stans on the floor It should eventually stay inflated when Im riding the bike everyday? I do hope so. I will add that it stayed inflated for the first three days, then rode it Friday was fine, then I was away over the weekend, came back to the mess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted March 15, 2011 Share Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardtailrider Posted March 15, 2011 Share Anyone? Sorry to hear you're having grief Caerus. Seems like you need to do a careful check where leaks might have happened while you were away (look for signs of dried sealant ooze). From bitter experience, potential sites are: 1. Obviously the bead seal2. Around spokes - leaks can sometimes get around the rim strip3. Around the valve - leaks can get around the rim strip at this point or around the valve itself I'd recommend removing the rim strip and cleaning everything up thoroughly. Then make sure you use liberal amounts of soapy water when fitting the strip and give inflating the tyre a test drive just with soapy water around tyre/rim interface (don't put any sealant in at this stage) - go to your nearest garage and use compressed air; saves much trial and tribulation. The bubbling will now show you where the worst leaks are (assuming the tyre inflates of course - just persist if it doesn't on first go. Then deflate, pour in (or squirt via the valve with core removed) 60mL or so of sealant and re-inflate with compressed air (Stan's advises against using a CO2 bomb). Again, look for where foam is coming out, rotate the wheel so that sections at the bottom and shake that baby! Keep going until foaming stops or reduces considerably. Next step is drop tyre pressure to BELOW 40 psi - if the pressure's too high, the sealant doesn't have time to...er...seal. Shake that baby all the way around again, then leave the wheel horizontal for 15 min so; repeat, flip 180 degrees and leave horizontal again for 15 min, then inspect for leaks once more. If any are still visible, keep going with the shake & check process until they stop. Leave wheel for a few hours, check and shake again as needed. Repeat the check and shake the next day. THat should do it!!! If you're still finding leaks, especially around the bead,see whether there aren't any little rubber moulding blobs you can trim away carefully with a v sharp Exacto or Stanley knife and start all over again. Good luck!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amasendeinja Posted March 15, 2011 Share Thanks for all the info, I should get it first time tomorrow Maybe just watch this clip http://www.notubes.com/Movies_Kit_Installation.aspx(maybe you have already as mentioned you had looked at some). I found it to be the best one I found and considering it's of Stan himself telling (and showing) you how to install HIS conversion I figure its a good bet. Followed his instructions to the letter and finally got my bastard tyre to seal properly! Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted March 15, 2011 Share So I cant just replace the sealent that oozed out and inflate again, as the bead is still stuck to the rim in most places from the Stans. The was no sealent coming from nipples, side walls or the valve. Do I also have to take the wheels off the bike, can I not just turn it upside down and do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardtailrider Posted March 15, 2011 Share So I cant just replace the sealent that oozed out and inflate again, as the bead is still stuck to the rim in most places from the Stans. The was no sealent coming from nipples, side walls or the valve. Do I also have to take the wheels off the bike, can I not just turn it upside down and do it? You can have a go at just adding more sealant but you'll have to take the wheels off - much harder to shake an entire bike... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted March 16, 2011 Share You can have a go at just adding more sealant but you'll have to take the wheels off - much harder to shake an entire bike... I left the tyres on the rims, added a bit more sealent and bombed them, shook them like a madman, spun them round and also did the hokey pokey with them. They do not seem to have lost any air over night so holding thumbs they will be fine for my ride this arvo Thanks for all the help and info people, it seems Ive managed to succesfully complete my first tubeless conversion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardtailrider Posted March 16, 2011 Share I left the tyres on the rims, added a bit more sealent and bombed them, shook them like a madman, spun them round and also did the hokey pokey with them. They do not seem to have lost any air over night so holding thumbs they will be fine for my ride this arvo Thanks for all the help and info people, it seems Ive managed to succesfully complete my first tubeless conversion Great! Welcome the club - you'll never leave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regard Posted March 16, 2011 Share Sheeeees, it feels like I just witnesed a birth!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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