Jump to content

patches

Members
  • Posts

    7985
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by patches

  1. Sorry to hear that BigDL. Unfortunately I don't have any great ideas on where the tools may find new homes. When my Dad passed my Mom gave most of his stuff away to friends etc (although his collection was pretty basic). I see others have mentioned guilds and the like. Not sure if PMB has a Men's Shed chapter, but that could be another option.
  2. Good find! There are a few crossovers and some badge engineering (like AEG and Ridgid). A number of brands also clubbed together to subscribe to CAS (Cordless Alliance System), where by the battery platform is universal between 30-something brands. Unfortunately most of those brands manufacture pretty specialised use tools with limited range. Not the kind of tools an average Joe or Joanne wold have need of. Metabo and Mafell seem to be the 2 exceptions. But if anyone thinks Festool is pricey, wait until they see Mafell! Sadly most of the brands with the broadest range like: Makita, Milwaukee, Dewalt, Ryobi (their One+ platform), AEG/Ridgid etc, don't seem to have much in the way of house-brand compatibles. There are Aliexpress cheap-n-cheerful tools designed to run off the popular platforms (particularly Makita's and Milwaukee's 18V). For older tools where battery tech is limited (ie old NiMH or even NiCad) or weird voltages, then aftermarket replica/replacement batteries may be available on places like Aliexpress (for those willing to wait). I probably would't use these off-brand batteries on current, high performance brushless tools with Li-ion cells and all manner of smart controllers within the tool or battery pack. Another option is battery adaptors, but they can make tools bulky and only connect to the positive and negative terminals, so any other terminals for battery smarts (like thermal monitoring etc) don't translate. I try to justify to myself that going onto a new battery platform to get a specific new tool then frees up the existing batteries I have, and opens up a whole new range of tools to add to the wish-list 😅 The initial hit of buying batteries and charger does hurt though 😖
  3. With only 2 eBike excursions under my belt, I am by no means an expert, but I can say that they make a HUGE difference when pedalling. Both outings were with my wife (non-cyclist) and more about the scenery than the ride or workout. First one was the Lake Dunstan Cycle Trail. A 55km trail conisting of moslty gravel path or decked bridges. Did it on cheapo rental eMTB's. Ambling along in eco mode for the flats and going into Boost mode on the climbs (some of which were pretty big) made the ride very enjoyable. Second was the Rotorua Forest Loop. About 31km of easy-to-moderate forest trail, undulating, plenty of roots, tight switch-back climbs etc. This time we rented some Scott Genius eMTB's. The bikes and trails were far more rider orientated than the previous experience. I mostly just ambled along with the group (non-cyclists), but did take the odd offshoot to have some fun and test the bike. As others have said, the ease at which one can race out of corners is amazing. The extra weight at a lower centre-of-gravity adds a sort of stability of the rough-stuff (similar to how a dirt like feels riding over bumpy tech stuff, but to a lesser extent). Where I did find it lacking was in the air. Granted this was my first time on a "fun" eBike, so I have much to learn in the way of the different technique, but it felt dead in the air and required a lot more effort to get it there. Although it is 9kg heavier than my Trek Remedy, it felt about 30kg heavier when trying to playfully hop around on the trail. So would I buy one... Yes! They are pretty darn fun, and for someone like myself (who has become a lethargic rider in the last few years), it could be the difference between deciding to drive the 45min (each way) to the local trails and enjoy a good few hours out there, or dissuade myself that the lengthy drive is not worth the 1.5hrs of gruelling climbs for a few brief (but fun) descents. After all, I ride for fun. Would I have it as my only bike... No. With fun being the main reason I ride, the dead-weight dynamics of the eBike when trying to be playful on the trail, or get some air, are a bit frustrating. As mentioned, I'm sure this would get better with time and practice, but on descents, I still prefer my Remedy. So in an ideal world, I'd have R140k of fun money just waiting to be spent, and I'd get a Trek Fuel EXE (the "in-between eBike" and only about 4kg heavier than my Remedy). But as such amounts of fun money seem to evade me, and I cannot deny that I have considered selling my Husky dirt bike to fund such a toy, as realistically I'd probably get more use out of it than the dinosaur-juice burner.
  4. While pottering in the garage yesterday I noticed my tyres were looking long-in-the-tooth/short-in-the-tread and with an upcoming 1400km adventure rally next Feb, I figured it was time for new ones. Good thing I happened upon this, as one of the local suppliers had my tyre of choice (Motoz Tractionator RallZ) for 30% off. $335 (approx R3350) for both and shipping. Only a shade more expensive than MTB tyres (which gram-for-gram are ludicrous) Now to build up the energy & motivation to wrestle with some Tublis inserts and change these tekkies!
  5. Congrats Many happy miles! My wife is slightly regretting her decision to jump the gun and get the XC40 T5 and not wait for the Recharge or C40... although those are about another $15k on what she paid. Maybe a Polestar 3 for her, if she wins the lotto, haha!
  6. As per the toolbox thread, I managed to pickup a used filing cabinet for dirt cheap ($5), so with some ply and castors I had lying around, I thought it was time to dust-up the track saw and peanut jig and make a "skin" for it. 18mm ply, mitred corners joined with glue peanut connectors (for strength) Thought I'd add a nice little bevel on the face, cos why not. The intended use is tool storage, and perhaps a base station for my drill press. And speaking of track saws, my previously fabri-cobbled track saw storage brackets gave out one evening (damaging the corners of my 1m rail 🤬 ) So I had to whip up another set, this time they should be a fair bit sturdier...
  7. This week in the Toolbox thread... Some bargains! First off, a little air compressor I picked up for half price Second, was an idea I had to repurpose old filing cabinets into tool storage. Picked up a 3 drawer unit from TradeMe (like Gumtree in NZ) for $5 Used some plywood and castors I had lying around to pimp and mobilize it.
  8. When you and your friends all have Harleys, but all you really want is a KTM
  9. Haha sorry didn't read too good! Driver vs wrench it's pretty much what dave303e said (Ie wrenches typically have higher torque). They also come in a variety of sizes (both anvil (ie 1/4" - 1") and have various classes (compact, medium torque, high torque and "I'm installing train tracks" torque. Even a compact (1/4", 3/8" or some even 1/2") is typically more bulky and heavy than an impact driver, but can be used for driving bigger lag bolts etc than the driver would. Mediums are a good size for automotive work. Wheel nuts etc. High torque would be for the likes of steel structure fabrication, and earthmoving equipment mechanicking. I think for the average person doing woodwork, DIY, and some light mechanicking, an impact driver with a 1/2"and 1/4" square drive adapter will more than suffice.
  10. Impact drivers and wrenches have a fast, repetitive torsional impact action via a hammer and anvil. These "jolt" fasteners tight or loose. As dave303e mentioned, they can deliver significantly more torque than a drill-driver. Some are downright vicious and can strip out fine fasteners or woodwork if not careful. However, unlike drill-drivers that get carried away and try break your wrist when the bit gets caught up, impact drivers and wrenches deliver the torque via the impacts without the twisty-wristies. This will probably explain it better than I can...
  11. Started watching this on the plane the other day https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0429087/?ref_=nv_sr_srsg_0 Not bad so far, Don't know if it's just Charlie Hunnam's acting style, but despite being set in India and him playing an Aussie, it still has a Son's of Anarchy feel.
  12. +1 on this. Looking forward to tomorrow when the next episode is released.
  13. My garage is far from that, but I have spent a small fortune on tools over the years. I still justify it to the wife with the whole "the tools pay for themselves"... but I doubt that they really do 😅🤫
  14. No apparent difference between the two CAT Impact Drivers, and R3700 is definitely on the steep side for a DIYer level tool. However, R1700 is not a bad deal for a brushless impact driver with 2 batteries and a charger. The battery looks very similar to the Black & Decker one... wouldn't be surprised if there's some cross contamination in the factories. As for the Hikoki, definitely the more reputable brand, however the tool in the link is an Impact Drill, not the same as an Impact Driver (Which is also not the same as an Impact Wrench). It's also a brushed version, so even though Hikoki is a pro-level brand, this is aimed at DIYers (which is no issue if that's all one wants). But in my opinion and for the money, a mid-level brushless from a pro-sumer brand (between DIY and Pro... like AEG/Ridgid) will probably be a better bet.
  15. Yeah, it was determined by the off-cuts on hand. I have tons of 18mm off-cuts, some long skinny 12mm, and no 9mm (only half sheets). Plus with the 18mm and my hap-hazard construction I'm less likely to stuff up the brad nailing and blowout the sides of a skinnier piece 😅 (All the French cleat tool holders to date have been constructed from off-cuts).
  16. Haven't used either, but the Festool ETS 150/5 EC, Mirka Deros 650 CV and 3M Xtract are all that next tier up from a prosumer carpentry tool, ok for dabbling in some wood-work to an actual professional fine woodworking tool. That said, it's probably like a factory tuned Ohlins rear shock... I'm nowhere near talented enough to notice the difference over the decent kit I already have. So yeah, the Bosch GEX 18V-125 is pretty awesome in my books and I can't see myself upgrading sanders anytime soon.
  17. I think it's pretty good. Sure it's no Festool, Mirka or 3M, but it's also a fraction of those prices. I really like the hand position and profile. Way better than the shape of most other cordless random orbit sanders. Scored pretty well on the Project Farm tests.
  18. Good little gadget I found while aimlessly wandering the aisles of the tool shop... Sure, a piece of masking tape does the trick, but these are pretty cool. Also, unlike the regular depth collars, no allen key required, and they clamp the bit better. Sometimes those grub screw ones struggle to find the land between the flutes and don't get too much grip.
  19. Oh and I made a simple holder for my sander to go on the French cleat wall... Handy tip... Fasten some of those AliExpress 90 degree clamps down to some scrap, to make a quick jig for holding boards flush and square while gluing, screwing, and brad nailing.
  20. After much procrastination, I finally made a little progress on some cabinet drawer and door fronts that have been on my to-do list for months (possibly a year). I needed to devise and create a consistent, repeatable and accurate way to route a drawer pull detail. First, there was a jig. A super simple and easy to make jig to run a router guide bush around. A great idea I saw on Hawe & Awe's Youtube Vids was using the mitre saw to do the cuts quickly. Even though you can see the mitre saw overshoots the mark, it doesn't affect the guide bush. (the circle is not part of the jig. Just part of this MDF scrap). That brought me into the guide bush... Finding a 45mm bush for a discontinued Festool router and aftermarket base would be nigh impossible. So some quick Fusion360 and about 2.5hrs of printing... Not my finest print but will do the job. The multiple mounting holes were set at slightly different PCD's as I couldn't accurately read the PCD of the router base. So I just printed in some options at 0.5mm increments either side of what I thought it should be. Now for the test... I clamped a test piece, engaged safety squints, and let her rip! Did about 3 passes, working my way towards the back of the template. The result wasn't too bad for a first attempt. Some tear-out as expected, but nothing a quick sand wont fix. Not sure what happened there so will run another test to see if I maybe lifted the router up slightly or something like that. Think I'll paint/stain the inside piece black (taped in green to give rough idea). So yeah, a lot of effort to route 1 detail. I guess that's why I had been procrastinating it. 1 more test piece and if successful I'll hold thumbs and do the real thing (6 drawer and door fronts, all grain matched, hence why I can't afford a mess up).
  21. Yesterday I saw a Royal Enfield Himalayan Scram 411 parked on the roadside. The paintwork on the tank caught my attention and initially I thought it was a far more expensive and custom bike. https://royalenfieldmotorcycles.co.nz/model/scram-411/ About 8,300 Kiwi Kwacha, which is similar to a Husky Vit or Svart Pilen, so would still take the Svartpilen over this. But nice smaller commuter option.
  22. After my sinful post about thinking of selling my bike, I have paid some penance for my blasphemy. I entered the 2023 Kriega Dusty Butt, as a sort of last hurrah. 10-15hrs/day for 3 days, covering some 1400km of the finest dirt the South Island has to offer... I can't wait! I have until February to get my bike roadworthy, figure out how I'm gonna get down to the start (a 1300km ride on it's own), and maybe do some training. I'm a bit out of it, and some of the challenge sections can be pretty gnarly (from what I remember when I did the event in 2017). Day 3/3 on the 2017 event. Stopping to take in some scenery. 5L fuel container strapped to the tail. "Ghetto GPS" ( old phone and GoPro Mount), and a saddle that felt like a bed of nails after 3 days). This time the bike will be better equipped... the rider, perhaps not 😅
  23. Aah this thread takes me back. Sold that bike about 6 years ago, not long after I moved to New Zealand. As for the rivnuts, it never had any. It was a slopestyle/4X bike, so no bottle cage, plus the brake hose and rear derailleur cable ran down the top of the down tube. Are you worried about corrosion of the rivnuts during the anodising process?
  24. And in slightly more serious news (although Brazilian cheese breads are legit), I'm guessing the potential migrants here have seen that Skilled Migrant and Parental Resident Visas are reopening. The 3yrs delay (partially due to Covid and partially due to an "overhaul" of the system), is a bit of a joke, as they have just rehashed a slightly different version of what they had before. A mixed bag with some good and bad... 2500 Parental Visas processed/year (vs the 1000 they stated for the "new" system which got instantly paused 3 years ago)... but only 500 of those will be new EOI's from a ballot system (aka lucky-dip). 2000 will be them trying to get through the backlog, which will take 3-4 years. Anyway, I think they (being the government) have finally learned that they desperately need skilled labour, they need to make it more pragmatic and offer some incentives (like quicker pathways to residency allowing or the ability for that imported talent to bring their parents over). Overall, it's good news.
  25. Any Aucklanders braved Costco yet? I had a gander on my way home from work last week. Sure, it wasn't the same as Costco in the US, and not all the prices were great, however the range was pretty decent and definitely some bargains to be had. My find of the day was the Brazilian cheese breads Available in nearly every Coles, Woolies or Aldi in Aus, but I've never seen them in NZ. Highly recommend for anyone who hasn't tried them, and they're Coeliac approved so MUST be healthy 😅
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout