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  1. Do you guys use smart trainers? I have a power meter and cyclops fluid trainer. How does the racing work if it's not a smart trainer? Do you have to focus on wattage when going 'uphill'?
  2. I had some good Samaritan come to my aid when I snapped my chain. Was that you? If so, then thank you!
  3. Self declared idiot/Neanderthal:) I've certainly learnt from you guys. Some lessons are costly but lessons nonetheless. To quote my Dad, "Dis skool geld"
  4. Damn! I was with santam before and now the words of my previous brokers has come back to haunt me! The overall outcome of this discussion then is I'm an idiot because: 1. For thinking a cheap insurance would be worth giving it a shot. I guess the age old saying 'If it sounds to good to be true, then it probably is' applies here 2. For changing to small blade under heavy load
  5. Guys, I'm not entirely sure what the relevance of whether I saw it or not is? To answer the question though, I know it looks fairly easy from the bottom and one pic with the crank off but when you're looking from the side the hole is hidden by the crank. Also, please bear in mind: 1. I've not said my insurance is wrong, I didn't come out blasting them for crappy service which is why I've purposefully left out details of the company. I've asked a question from fellow cyclist so that I can decide if this would've happened with an big/well established insurance company which means that whether I'm paying R1 or R300 the outcome would've been the same. Also, if there is any grounds for me to challenge this? 2. I'm not trying to rip off my insurance and if they back this up this decision with logic, then I'll do what I need to do to get going again.
  6. Will take some pics of the drive train this evening and post
  7. I've been doing certain training to try and simulate certain conditions. As previously mentioned, this may not been my brightest move, also considering I have a compact chain ring which I've now read is prone to chain suck 'Over Shifting and Chain Suck – Outside of rub, the most common shifting issues we have seen with compact crank designs is a greater tendency for the chain to over shift and the chain getting sucked against the frame more frequently. While proper set-up and maintenance is paramount to minimizing the likelihood of these events occurring, even a well set up bike can be prone to throwing the chain and chain suck. For riders that are prone to these issues, there are inexpensive devices like the 3rd Eye ChainWatcher and anti-chain suck plates that can be installed on the frame to keep the chain cooperative. These chain watchers are not always compatible with aero tubing or non-traditional designs, so check with a well informed mechanic to find out what will work for you' http://fitwerx.com/compact-cranks/ Host of reasons why this could occur but insurance went straight to wear and tear http://fagan.co.za/Bikes/Csuck/
  8. Question then is if this is the feedback from the bike shop, how do I change the assessment to be more specific? I actually thought a stone hit the bottom of the frame when I saw the hole but bike shop says they doubt it was a stone.
  9. definitely not trying to commit insurance fraud, hence why I've left the insurer name out of the post and why I'm asking the question. If this is valid for them to dispute then fair enough, I'll leave it as is
  10. Not entirely sure (I may be somewhat mechanically capable) however to give context, I'm 88kg and I was jump standing big gear intervals and I was doing around 800 - 900 watts, then switched to small blade when chain drop and basically got jammed in between frame and crank. Took substantial force to get the crank loose. This may have been what caused the damage
  11. Assessment was done and comments were 'Damage May have been caused by chain suck' No definitive answer, no comments that this was as a result of wear and tear.
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