Ruben101

I would replace the wheels from the start, that way you at least get something back by selling them in almost new condition. I've seen a lot of rim, hub and freehub problems on Scott entry to mid spec level bikes before they even reach 1000km. Then I would look at a dropper post. After that, I would look at doing the drivetrain. Shimano is cheaper then Sram, but it depends on your preference. You will need to replace the rear hub in any case if you want to go with a full shimano/sram gx or higher in the range drivetrain. The rest of the bike is fine. Fork and brakes are decent. One user mentioned upgrading to 4 piston brakes. I don't think that is necessary. When you start riding harder, the first thing that will hold you back is the fork with the 32mm stantions.

I just had a look at the Merida options. Unfortunately, the max tire clearance on the rear is 45

Specialized Epic Evo

The dropper does look a bit silly, but here's why, its not just a normal dropper.. "However, the DIVINE SL was specifically designed with respect to XC riders’ requirements.; One of the features is the “Tech-Climb” feature. While our DIVINE SL is completely locked in;place;in the top-out and bottom-out;position for the consistent riding position, the post can slightly spring in the;middle positions. We´ve found out, that extremely steep and technical (e.g. rooty or rocky) uphill sections can be conquered with much more ease when the saddle is just slightly dropped (let’s say about 1-2cm). Having the saddle dropped just a;bit (and not completely),;the “Tech-Climb” feature”;also adds some suspension to the post, filtering the impacts of roots and rocks. Back fully extended or;fully dropped, the post is rigid again."

Hi. Does anyone have a spare m6000 deore left hand lever laying around?

Ryder Products have a lifetime guarantee. Simply take it back with proof of purchase and swop it out.

Do you have a special adapter to put the lefty hub on your trueing stand?

It almost sounds like you have purma tubes on the Titan

Race Face is now also doing a new chainring called Race Face Era ,which is made from three different materials. Teeth are steel, alu interface and carbon spider. Light and durable, but not affordable. $149 for a blade. Looks very cool though https://www.raceface.com/products/era-chainring?srsltid=AfmBOoq0Nr2xggxxZvrZPknRzlO7si0aDxPHRw6HOE6L-d6Ljh4o3pt9&variant=40835808854098

I also run Race Face cranks and recently had to replace the chainring. Unfortunately, the race face steel chainrings only comes in 3 sizes- 28t,30t and 32t according to their website. I run 34t or 36t so I had to go the race face alu chainring route. Personally, I think this is another persuasive tactic from a few brands in the cycling industry. Ex. They don't want to sell you a steel chainring that is affordable and long lasting. Instead, they want to sell you more expensive products like alu chainrings that don't last that long. Then a few months later your back at buying an alu chainring that is twice the price of an alu one. More sales = more money

Hi Anyone that can help me with a right side or set of geometry flip chips for a 2014 Scott Spark 940 Aluminum please?

I have also experienced the fibre tape (almost like duct tape) lift when the tyre debeads. And if you are not careful when using a tyre lever to take off the tyre, the lever pokes though the tape.

I might be able to help. Send me a dm.

It is not a deal breaker at all. You can always change that setup to a 1x11 with most of the existing components. Plus- the specs says a deore rear derailleur, but I have seen a few closer up picks from these bikes actually coming out with a Shimano Deore XT derailleur