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Found 22 results

  1. Hi I have just found this forum and see that there are indeed some recumbent riders in SA . Is there anybody who enjoys building recumbents in SA. I built my own out of frustration because I could not find any SA builders or riders. Here is a video of the bike
  2. Good afternoon Hubbers! Anyone ever attempt to replace the Boa dials on their cycling shoes? If so, are there local stockists of the replacement kits?
  3. There isn't one, as far as I could see, so let's start a wheel building thread. (Maybe admins want to pin this?) This is the thread for anyone wanting info on wheel building, for anyone who builds wheels and for all guys who may want to learn this art.
  4. So whilst this thread isn't strictly cycling related. It's also not-not cycling related. I think in general, cycling enthusiasts have a strain of DIY-DNA in them, which triggers the tendency to tinker with things. This Tinkering tendency, if not treated, can develop into an all out side obsession. This can exhibit itself as amateur artisan-ship. So here's a thread to post about your workshops, projects, shiny new tools, tips-and tricks, and any anecdotes you may have relating to the matter.
  5. Hi there hubbers, I need your creativity and ideas. I'm in the early brainstorming phases of a handle bar mount that I want to design and 3D print. This is for a small project I'm doing for myself. Basically the handle bar mount will hold a lightweight optical device. The mount will not be used during riding, only for bike setup purposes. So the mount needs to be able to be attached and removed from any size bar several times, preferably without any tools. Also the mount will have to be rigid and precise, as I require a perfect 90deg angle with the handle bar and mount (so no play). I've google a few examples, but was wondering if anyone has any clever designs or ideas ? I've got a 3D package that I will design the mount on, and then 3D print it. Currently 3D printing is (in my mind) the quickest way to get a prototype going. But by the time the design is sorted I might look to machining the mounts. Once again if there is a cheaper option available that would allow to make more of the mounts in less time for less money then please do share. TIA
  6. So this weekend I made a noob mistake. Took my chain off for a deep clean, let it soak in paraffin (old schools cool man), scrubbed it, dried it off, etc. But when I wanted to put the chain back on the roller and bushing from the links where the masterlink connects to was missing in action (both ends). By my own powers of deduction, I realised they are swimming in the bottom of a 5l old motor oil can somewhere in the local Midas's used oil container. Seeing as I just poured the used paraffin in there after the clean. #facepalm #lotsofswearing #poephol So I suppose my question is can I just replace the bushing and roller with one from a salvage chain at my local Bike shop? The chain has lots of life left (only 1500km on it [GX eagle] and not close to replacement time) and I just don't want to chuck it away for no reason. I assume the risk here is that the replacement roller and bushing could be worn more than my current chain. Are there other caveats? *edit: spelling*
  7. Hi! My wheel has no "freewheel" after replacing my my formula break pads in fact it feels like I'm dragging the brakes. It seems like they are too "thick" as in not to spec, the rotor gets between but in with a rather too tight for comfort fit. My rotors aren't warped and I pushed the pistons back carefully during installation (I've done this on various cars many times over the years, yeah I know they bike would be far more delicate ;-) ) The pads I've replaced them with are a pair bought from Olympic Cycles here in Cape Town by www.definitivebikes.com I'm not quite sure what to do apart from putting the old pads in for now, they have about 1mm on them. Comparing the old pads vs the new ones: Base thickness 2.1 mm for both Base shape, identical Overall thickness New 4mm, Old 3mm (of course this is wear) Any advice / help would be appreciated. Thanks, Greg
  8. Hey Hubbers, The Story: Recently I bailed coming into a singletrack - my bar clipped a tree and I left my bike behind, bailing over the bars. While I was all good, my bike wasn't so much... not that I knew at the time. I picked him up and kept on riding, when I noticed 2 things: My brake lever was shuddering in my handMy brake lever was very close to my gripsSo I stopped at the bottom, and inspected my bike: 1) Rotor was kinked heavily, 2) the rotor was pushing a piston back in every rotation, and 3) my sexy shiny caliper had a few scratches on it... Got over it, took the rotor off on the side of the trail and knocked the kink out with a rock, so it cleared the pistons, and kept riding for the rest of the day. The problem: After bleeding my caliper, all seems to work 100%. After riding around for a week, 100%. As soon as I lift my bike upright to squeeze past the cars in my garage, the brake loses all of its power. On inspection, there is a fair amount of leaked brake fluid on my frame (a few blobs). So I'm wanting to know, is there any DIY fix for this? If not, anyone know where I can get a caliper parts kit in Cape Town? Like this one: http://www.jensonusa.com/Avid-X0-Trail-Caliper-Parts-Kit Looks like some bog standard o-rings and seals so I'm hoping to not spend too much more (on cycling in general ). Any advice would be much appreciated! Would love to have a worry-free ride this weekend.
  9. I am starting this topic in the hope that people might share their own little secrets as to how they have solved annoying design issues/ failures with components or ingenious solutions to mechanical failures on the trail. So post your mods, improvements, or additions and alterations to off the shelf components and hopefully they will go a long way to help the many poor cycling souls out there who suffer the same pains and frustrations!
  10. Last year I was fortunate enough to finally scrape together the funds for a Di2 groupset. Since it was initially launched I've loved the idea of clicking a button to shift, as opposed to the normal long lever throws required. I have to say, I miss a certain part of the tactility of a mechanical system. For example, when climbing under power being able to feel the tension build as you push the lever and the chain starts to shift and being able to ease off the power accordingly to allow it to move to the next gear. However, one of my biggest annoyances while riding a road bike with it's multitude of bar positions, is the need to let go of the bar when needing to shift, when climbing with hands on top of the bar or cruising/descending with your hands low down on the drops. As such, an upgrade to remote buttons was something I looked forward to. Except, the system Shimano offers just seems so badly executed to me. The climbing shifter is an ugly monstrosity that I simply could never attach to my bike. It's just too big. Heaven knows why. Some say it needs a circuit board in the enclosure. That's bollocks. The sprinter buttons on the other hand make more sense, but seeing as I won't ever be engaged in a sprint, didn't really offer a good solution either. I thought of buying them and extending the cables, but the cost of R1700+ seemed like too much. Thus I started doing some research to see if anyone had DIY'd a system. I found a link to a setup that used 2x micro switches http://benmanson.com/review/di2/di2buttons.htm This involved still acquiring a Shimano cable extension with their unique 4-point plug, at over R1000 for the cable. Again, the cost seemed silly, but at least this proved that the circuit board in the climbing shifter was not needed. Further research on one of the road bike forums revealed that the different looking plugs on the sprint shifters were rumoured to be an attempt by Shimano to make users believe that that was the only solution. However, several users reported that the standard Di2 electrical wire and plugs would work. The idea of using the sprinter ports and having a button either side of the bar/stem also appealed to me more than using the climbing button port. Using the climbing port meant both buttons would be on the same side. Also, I wanted buttons below the drops as well and I felt 2 buttons mounted on one side would be too bulky. I decided to order a 1m cable from CWC and upon receiving it cut it in half, stripped of the ends, plugged it in to the sprinter port and found the system shifted when the 2 wire ends touched. Voila. I then ordered some IP67 rated micro tactile switches from RS Online http://za.rs-online.com/web/p/tactile-switches/7931664/ It was a pretty simple process, even though I'd never soldered anything before in my life. Below a few pics depicting the process: The completed 'wiring loom'. Sorry the pic is out of focus, but I only realised this after completion Soldered button I applied a glob of silicone to the buttons, allowed it to dry and then trimmed it. The buttons are dust and splash proof, but obviously water would still cause a short between the two wires. I taped the wire and button to the bar as you would normal cables and wires Below the drops, I used some double-sided tape to lessen the transition between the bar and the button. Like I said, hack job. I enlarged one of the holes on the bartape to accommodate the buttons. And the finished product
  11. HI, everyone, every year GF4GF centres ride the 947 with TEAMBeulah(http://beulahafrica.co.za/2016/08/12/call-to-action-help-break-the-cycle-of-poverty/) in order to raise funds to help support ex-students at university.(http://gf4gfcentres.co.za/) So, my idea:Make and sell repair stands made mostly of reclaimed material to raise funds for the bursary fund, and to help maintain the bicycles, etc that are used each year. So, I would like to know: Do you guys think it's a good idea? Is there a market for this? And how much should I ask for the stands; R300, R400, R500? I was thinking of solely selling through the hub, but I don't know whether any bike shops might be interested in retailing maybe? Also, I will need at least 5 orders before everything can be bought to begin manufacturing. I would also like to donate 1 stand for every 10 sold to: projects like Build-a-Bike; B.O.M.B, or the the first taker on the hub for a free stand So, please post your thoughts/ideas here on the subject and let me know what you guys think Thanks in advance! The repair stand in all its glory!
  12. Hi All, So I've always wanted to build up my own bike and of recent i have acquired all the parts to begin this dream of doing my own 'Build'. That being said, i have no idea where to begin. The issues I am facing are the removal of the crank and the changing of my cassette and hubs on the wheels that i have as i need to change the back rims hub to QR and the front to TA! The rims i have are currently the opposite sadly! I gather from youtube that i will need special tools for this operation but was wondering if anyone had any advice on where i could possibly gain help at the cheapest price? I am so stoked for the exercise and have stripped the bike down as far as i could using only my multitool, but am now at a dead end. Any advice would be appreciated, even if there is a place where i can buy tools cheaply to do this on my own? Thanks in advance, Zaid The Noob
  13. Hi all, So I became the new owner of a road bike over the weekend. I don't ride road bikes, but I couldn't accept that the bike was thrown out in the wind and rain, so I managed to acquire it without paying a cent. Even though it isn't the latest model, I feel the bike can look like new with a bit of TLC. ( Trek 2300, mustard-yellow, a few scratches etc ) This is what I would like to know: - To save costs, would it be advised that I respray the bike myself? I don't like the yellow, and would change the colour if possible. - Do you get kits that can assist with respraying a bike? - Is it better to have decals painted on the bike, or is it better to get new stickers? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Kev
  14. Confession time - I have very few mechanical and DIYskills. I have bought an old Hansom to rebuild because I reckon it must be a hugely rewarding project. The bike is a Hansom Super Prestige with Mavic rims and Pelissier hubs. Weinmann 570 Top brakes and Shimano Light Action 2*6 gears. I would like to restore it to look like it did when it came out the factory. Photos show the condition which to my untrained eye appears to be fair. It has some scratches on the paintwork but appears to be in reasonable running order. So where do I start?
  15. Hi All, It's been a while since I've been on the forum- my activity disappeared along with my cycling ability after a minor car crash. Anyways, I'm happily back and have a new diy project that I've been brewing over for just over a year - I want to build an ebike. My ideas so far is to build an initial ebike using a hub motor to build into an existing ZTR Olympic or an entirely new wheel with more spokes and different diameter. My hopes is to be able to swop this wheel out with my current 26" dual sus bike, although I'm concerned over the wear of a motored drivetrain on gearset. I've occasionally checked the chinese carbon thread for an idea over aftermarket carbon frames and rim prices, but they still seem rather expensive for a side project, hence my hopes of building an electric hub motor wheel to swop out instead of a whole new bike. I would first of just like opinions from anyone who've ridden an ebike in South Africa or especially anyone who has built their own, like did you import all your parts, which (unforeseen) obstacles did you encounter, what was your budget and final expenditure etc. etc. This will be an open discussion and hopefully it will get enough content that I could perhaps design two or more ebike drivetrains and write guides for anyone else interested in undertaking this project.
  16. This might be a bit of an ask, but I was wondering if anyone on the forum located in Gauteng would be happy to show me how one goes about servicing a mountain bike. I put quite a lot of kms onto the bike cycling to and from work (about 150km a week) and I would like to learn to do the kind of service that you get when you take your bike into the shop. I have a copy of Zinn and the art of mountain bike maintenance, but it would be great to get some input on my specific setup. The bike in question is fairly new. It is a 29er scott hardtail with: - air shocks - hydraulic discs - 1x10 shimano drivetrain (originally 3x10) - rear XT derailleur - tubeless 29" tyres I'd obviously be happy to pay for this lesson (in cash or beer or the like). Thanks in advance!
  17. Hi guys Need some advice... I'm looking to do more of my own bike servicing and therefore need to build up my tool kit. I'm looking at getting quality tools, so probably Park tool? I currently have the following : Chain Whip Chain Breaker Cassette removal tool Allen key set (Park Tool) External BB removal tool Pedal spanner Cable cutters So, I am able to remove and reinstall a crank and cassette, looking at doing more stuff like servicing my own hubs etc. Road and MTB Where do I start? PS I have a Tork bike stand, which is pretty crappy so looking at an alternative there as well..
  18. I made this wooden shelf myself from Pine, based on pics that I found on the internet.
  19. So I needed some strong lights for the MRS and I. At over R700ea it was not an option to buy two sets. So I went about making my own set for about R120ea. I will be posting a "set by step" as I have time just in case anyone wants to make their own. All electronics were purchased from http://www.rabtron.co.za and I highly recommend them for their helpfulness and quick service. If I had any "electronic" questions they were happy to answer. Here's the parts list: 6 x 3W High Power Led - White - 160~180lM R114.02 4 x B165L Push Button Latching Round Red R31.46 3 x High Power LED Lens 45 deg R34.20 1 x Heat Shrink Tubing 12MM BLACK - Per Metre R12.00 1 x Heat Shrink Tubing 3.5mm RED - Per Metre R5.00 1 x Heat Shrink Tubing 3.5mm BLUE - Per Metre R5.00 2 x B163B Mini Push Button N/C Black R11.99 1 x Heat Shrink Tubing 1MM BLACK - Per Metre R3.00 1 x Heat Shrink Tubing 10MM BLACK - Per Metre R10.00 1 x Heat Shrink Tubing 1.5MM BLACK - Per Metre R3.50 3 x Battery Clip For 9V PP3 Battery R8.58 2 x Battery Holder 4xAA Long R15.73 3 x High Power LED Lens 25 deg R34.20 6 x 3.9 OHM 5.0W 5% W/W R19.84 BUILD PART1 (click to follow) You'll notice I bought extra LEDs and extra resistors just in case The heat shrink tubing is just a nice to have and not expensive. Here's the finished results: theMK1 theMK2 Stay tuned for the "step by step" build which I should be up here by the end of the week :holding thumbs: BUILD PART1 (click to continue)
  20. Spent December and January building our own custom bicycle sound system - The Jam Daddy. This project was a labour of love, but the finished project is awesome. The sound quality is unrivaled and it handles very well! It's a monster sound system mounted on 20" wheels, and loud enough to rock the block. We're updating our track list, so think of a song that needs to be played *really* loud, and let the Jam Daddy know!
  21. I did my first BB replacement today. The old BB have been tik-tik'ing for the past month, so I waited for that CWC-special before finally getting a replacement. After the replacement the tik-tik was gone... replaced by a creak-creak sound (also consistent with pedal strokes) I then swapped rear wheels with my dad's bike to try and localise the problem - the creaking disappeared. So I put my wheel back again, and the creaking sound was gone! This also happened the last time my BB was replaced (not by myself though). The LBS said the drivetrain just needed a clean. I just find it odd that a drivetrain-related sound goes creak-creak consistently with pedalstrokes... TL;DR: Replaced BB, more prominent creaking sound, swapped rear wheel, swapped back - creaking sound gone.
  22. D.I.Y. COMBO DEAL Available now! While stocks last.
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