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Provisionally interested, depending upon pricing. I know exactly where you are going with this purchase… May be interested in trying this little experiment myself. Although it does seem like a lot of trouble to go to every few hundred kilometres.

Oh boy. Now that is interesting. I have an occasional ticking sound too which I have never been able to identify. Time to take a good look at things.

That's probably a more accurate description. For a 100 mile race I will probably almost always take my Assos bibs. for a quick "muck around" at Northern Farm, it'll likely be the shorts.

Yes. I find that they are quite good value for money, are really very comfortable and seem to have a very good usage life.

I have some very good Assos bibs but I have gravitated towards shorts. I find them very convenient and also really quite comfortable. But it's really very much a personal preference thing. Shorts seem not to work so well for people are carrying a little bit of weight around the front.

Thank you. Understood. Please allow me to withdraw my previous comments.

Hi Stef, I don't wear a mask while cycling. Across the world, it's pretty much the case that runners and cyclists (I am not talking about commuters here) do not wear masks. You will see a number of articles on the subject. But I accept that in a sense, that is beside the point. To be honest, I don't wear a mask because I simply cannot get enough air through one; it feels like I am drowning trying to cycle with a mask on. After a time, the mask gets wet on the inside (when I ride, I usually ride hard) and then it's like being waterboarded. If I am forced to wear a mask, I would rather not cycle. If you look at the World Health Organisation guidelines on the wearing of masks, they are not recommended unless the person in question is coughing, sneezing or similar. And if I am unwell in any degree, you can be certain I am not out on my bicycle. This may or may not be true of others though. I know none of this really solves your problem but I hope it at least answers the question. The reason I don't wear a mask is not because I don't give a toss at all but simply because I can't cycle with one on. I just find it completely impossible. Your experience may be different.

It's law but it's not a criminal offence not to wear a mask. So in fact, they can't arrest you for it or fine you for it.

"Riders often speak of "chain stretch," a technically misleading and incorrect term. Chains do not stretch, in the dictionary sense, by elongating the metal by tension. Chains lengthen because their hinge pins and sleeves wear. Chain wear is caused almost exclusively by road grit that enters the chain when it is oiled. Grit adheres to the outside of chains in the ugly black stuff that can get on one's leg, but external grime has little functional effect, being on the outside where it does the chain no harm." https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

Chains don't stretch. They wear. And no, it's not the same thing. There's no such thing as "allowable stretch". So nobody knows what you actually really said. Including yourself. I reckon you probably measure kms the way you measure chain wear.

If you think 1% is " "allowable" stretch" on *any* chain, much less a 12 speed chain, good luck to you!

It could be tension failure. Tension failure is caused by improper engagement between the links and the sprockets and sometimes by the chain riding up on the sprocket teeth. Sometimes this can be caused by dirt and debris between the sprocket and the chain. This can create an overload condition which brings about the cracking that you are referring to.

That then confirms that what I have done is right. Thank you very much.

Hi guys, I just want to check something. SRAM GX, 3mm offset factory chainring. Bike is boost. I have fitted an NG Eco and am now fitting the chainring. Do I need spacers or does fitting the chainring directly to the power meter allow for the standard 3 mm offset? My understanding is that you only need to use spacers when using this set up on a non-boost bike. Is that correct? Thanks in advance!

Or do it the proper way: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing As mentioned, use a second quick link.

Fortunately only road bike in my case.

Exactly what happened here. Maybe also a bit of crud on the cable guide under the bottom bracket.

Is it not the trim function? I also have a double click on mine. When you go down to the small chain ring, you first need to go through the trim (click one) and then down to the small chain ring (click two). Great stuff! Thanks for the help. 10.

Okay, I feel like a bit of an idiot. Checked the thing out. Nothing obviously wrong. Pressed the FD with a thumb, not too hard. Realised things are sticky. A bit of silicon spray on the FD and the underpass shifter cable and all is fine again.

Hi Droo, no it has nothing to do with the trainer. None at all. It's a direct drive trainer and comes nowhere near the FD or its shift system. And it was working fine while on the IDT until this morning when it decided to say "nyet!". Thank you. I'll check it out. Cable is still fully tight but will take a look at it. I think the problem may be somewhere inside the shifter. Or maybe the FD is just stuck for some reason.

Hi guys, Like many others, I am in lockdown and have my road bike on my indoor trainer. Something odd is going on with my Ultegra chainring front derailleur /shifter set up. Basically, when I use the shift levers, nothing happens. The shift levers move and you get the usual "click sensation" but there is absolutely no movement on the derailleur. At first I thought the cable must be broken but when I checked the cable on the derailleur and where it feeds through into the frame, the cable is still absolutely taut, which tells me that this is probably not a cable problem. But I am mystified as to what the problem could be and thought that I would ask here before I start trying to take things apart. If anybody has a pretty clear idea as to what it is likely to be, I would greatly appreciate the input. TIA.

I am not sure about the "backwards forwards" movement thing on this rather fancy "wobble board", but for what it is worth, the Tacx Neo already has some lateral movement built into it. I was very hesitant about this before I bought my Neo and was quite concerned that I might find it negative. Having used the thing for a good few months now though, I can say that while at first I found it a little disconcerting, I am quite used to it now and it's… Well… Okay. It's not really a big deal. It's quite nice but I was quite happy with my old "fixed" setup which had no lateral movement. Speaking purely for myself, for my own purposes, this kind of thing simply doesn't make much sense. It doesn't change the experience so much that it's worth the money and the hassle. Maybe if you combine it with a set of VR goggles or something… But not on a standard kind of trainer arrangement. YMMV.

IMHO the "Neo works with power" thing is a bit overrated. Okay for doing winter structured workouts when no fan and not much data required - on Garmin or Rouvy, etc.

Yes, extremely happy. The unit has been absolutely trouble-free. I had to obviously purchase a cassette to fit to it but I purchased the same cassette as I have on my wheel. It has pedal stroke analysis, needs no calibration, can be configured and updated through the Tacx software interface and so forth. I find it folds up into a package which is reasonably transportable (for me anyway). I like the fact that there is a little bit of "flex" in it which helps to simulate real riding. I came off a trainer which didn't have that – and I think it is unique to the Neo - and I find I really like it. It makes the bike feel "more natural". The virtual flywheel works very well. You may have read about a bit of "slip" with it. The only time I feel any "slip" is when I have come to a dead stop and then I get going very hard again (as opposed to starting up gradually). Then it seems to take a split-second to "think about it" and "catch up with you". But that is the only time you will notice it. I find the pedal stroke analysis quite useful. For reasons of past injury, my left leg is stronger than my right leg and being able to watch the pedal stroke analysis helps me to "teach" my right leg to work a bit more. I find it works very well with my Garmin bike computer as well. I also think because it is now owned by Garmin, we are likely to see better integration and upgrades over time. But I could be wrong about that. Another feature that I quite like is the lights underneath the unit. So you will see when you pedal, that it starts off with a blue light and then it goes through a series of colours, up to dark red, as power increases. So you can get an idea of the amount of power you're putting out through the variation in the light colours on the floor as you look down. The unit doesn't need power to work either. You don't have to plug it in. It also has a "downhill feature" which works properly when you are riding virtual rides on Rouvy and the like. In other words, it actually spins "the back wheel" (in reality the flywheel) as would be the case if you were going downhill. It needs to be plugged in to do that but it does work properly. If you want to ride competitively on Zwift and the like, it could be a significant advantage. I don't but my mates rave about it. It also has "virtual road feel" by which I mean it can actually create the impression of riding over cobblestones or the like. This is because of the virtual flywheel and how it works. The other thing is that the unit is not too difficult to assemble to do your own maintenance on (cleaning and lubing, et cetera). It takes a little bit of practice at first but once you get used to it, getting a bike on and off is quite quick. The Neo 2 comes with the necessary fittings for both quick release and thru axle. I find that the unit is very quiet – it seems to be 100% silent. What you hear is the drivetrain of your bike (chain, chain ring and cassette). Nothing else. I really don't regret buying it. The only thing I battled a little bit with in the beginning was I put a used 11 speed cassette on it and it wasn't "happy" with that. I think there was a mismatch between the cassette wear and the chain wear and then you end up with a kind of "grrr" noise coming off the system. But I soon found the problem explained on the Tacx support videos and when I put a new unit on, it solved the problem. I haven't had to change them since then and so am good to go. I even took the unit on holiday with me down to the seaside where we have 100% humidity (quite literally, 100%) on some days and I had no problems with it. In fact, the humidity was so bad that our microwave went "bang" and blew its main fuse because of a short arising because of the humidity in the air. But no problems with the trainer. Overall, it is a very well thought through and very well built product. If you're going to purchase one, the 2 may be a better buy than the 2T. Not for pricing reasons but the 2T seems to have more "start-up slip" than the 2. That is what I read on the web. Certainly, I have no issues with my 2.