Ivan Bergman

I share the same sentiment. Kudos for getting off the couch and out in the fresh air. Some might need that extra bit of external validation to get them to continue bettering themselfs.

Haha think we'll need some financing options alongside these recommendations. I've also been on them for a few sets now, primarily because out in the middle of nowhere, selection is a rare commodity. Saying that, I haven't had anything to complain about up-until-recently. So IIRC, the 1st and 2nd set was with the Muc-Off sealant, I ran out and bought some off-brand at my LBS for the 3rd set. Do you perhaps know why the tyres aren't playing nice with the sealant? So far it seems a 50-50. Some people swear by them, some don't. On setup, I always check and clean the bead as best as I can. I redo setups and maintain them fairly often and never had any sort of issues like this. But note to future to fit them dry to double check. Do you reckon the tyre popping off the rim could cause damage? Especially on carbon?

oof

What would you consider as better? I'm moving on after this set, with the issues I had so far, I've got a bit of PTSD (term is used lightly, no offence meant) getting on my bike. I mean sure, this would have an effect, but as much? I don't know. Surely reputable brands would anticipate some of the QC fail percentage to go up with the supply chain challenges but focus should still remain on delivering a product that works? Especially when the product costs as much as a small hatchback's tyres. It makes sense in the short term to drop QC standards to drive volume, but in the longer term brand reputation takes a hit which could potentially have a larger, more detrimental impact. Someone had to think of that right? Or is my assumption way too idealistic and manufacturers are happy with the "some definite money now > potentially more money later" approach?

Hi All, I was wondering if anyone else has been experiencing weird quality issues with Maxxis Tyres recently? I've purchased 3 sets of Ardent Race 2.35's over the past year, 2 of the total 6 has been giving me weird issues. 1st Set: Perfect, no complaints, got around 1500km out of them before replacing them due to unrepairable punctures. 2nd Set: Got about 50km's worth of use out of the rear when it exploded riding down to my complex gate taking out my rear rim (Shattered the side of the carbon rim - RIP). I think it's fair to note that I had a collision 2 rides prior that could've caused damage, although I feel that it would've happened within those 2 previous rides. The bead had teared away from the wall of the tyre. After the collision, I inspected the bike, nothing but a few scratches here and there as I took the brunt of the impact. 3rd Set: On a new wheelset, both tyres seated fairly easy, although I have to note that the front's drive side bead put down a bit of a fight. I did around 5km to test without any issues. The next day I loaded my bike in to the car, drove out and did a 10km ride (Tame single track and gravel), drove back and left my bike in the car for a few hours. When I came back, the front tyre had de-beaded from the rim and sealant all over the roof of my car. No damage to the rim, nor the tyre. That evening, I re-did the tape, filled it up with sealant and inflated the tyre to around 35psi when the exact same side as before blasted off, spraying sealant everywhere. First I thought the rims had some sort of defect, but couldn't see anything wrong with them. They are nice and true, no weird rim surface issues, nothing. I decided to test the tyre on something else. Installed it on an Alu wheel with a tube, checked it and the tyre itself seems buckled near the contact surface. - it's a few cm's off where the Maxxis logo is. I'm unsure whether I've just been having bad luck, or if there is some sort of trend to this?

Adhesive strength and tape elasticity makes all the difference when applying and removing. Not too sure, but it would make sense that longevity gets affected on a sliding scale in relation to this. I'm still keen on giving the Stans tape a try, if I can get my hands on a roll, but for now I'm naer after repeating this exercise 18 times. I completely forgot to disclose this. Alu wheelset 1 - Silverback Surface Assymetrical Alloys Alu wheelset 2 - Specialized Roval Control Alloys Carbon wheelset - Light Bicycle Recon 29 I think a fair conclusion to this would be that brand does not matter, it's the type that does. So anything with good adhesion properties, some elasticity and has some sort of puncture resistance to it would be the best option for most.

Finally got around to test the different approaches, here are my findings: The tape I used was Ryder's silver tape, Mavic Clear tape and standard electrical insulation tape from my local hardware shop. The tyres used were Maxxis Ardent-Race 2.35. The sealant used was some off brand I found at my local bike shop. Wheelsets I'll be using the tests for Alu wheelset 1 - Silverback Surface Asymmetrical Alloys Alu wheelset 2 - Specialized Roval Control Alloys Carbon wheelset - Light Bicycle Recon 29 My only objective was to measure if the wheels set easier/quicker. Not longevity. Carbon Wheels - fitted with and without insulation tape on both front and rear. No notable difference. Alu wheelset 1 - fitted with and without insulation tape on both front and rear, this made a difference. Without the insulation tape, I couldn't get the bead to set at all with both the Ryder and Mavic rim tape. Alu wheelset 2 - fitted with and without the insulation tape on both front and rear. No notable difference. Some other observations: The rim's profile and overall shape matters. All 3 pairs are 24mm width (IIRC), but the shape on the inside and outside differs slightly. The carbon and alu wheelset 2 are similair in shape but not identical, alu wheelset 1 differs. On alu wheelset 1 the tyre fit was a fair bit looser than the other 2 wheelsets. In terms of applying rim tape, I favour the Mavic clear tape, because it's a bit more elastic than the Ryder tape. This elasticity made it a lot easier to evenly distribute the tape accross the face of the rim's inner. In terms of longevity, well, we'll see. But my bet is on the thicker more beefy looking Ryder tape. Just a last note, these tests were by no means scientific, thus the conclusion above is merely an opinion observed by some bloke in his backyard.

Got a set of new rims over the weekend, just finished cleaning off the adhesive. I'll give both methods a try. One rim with a layer of insulation and one without and post my findings.

Howzit everyone! Been on the Hub for a some time but never really participated in any meaningful way, hence the new topic. I did a quick search and found that the discussion on this topic is fairly old, perhaps outdated. Does rim tape brands/materials really make a difference? Some people/shops swear by a certain brand or type, others are on the opposite side of the spectrum. I'd like to know your take and experience?

Happy 2021 all! Count me in! Got the last 6kgs to go for my ultimate goal of 75kg.

I spoke to the people at Scuttle, although very helpful, they don't transfer stock between the Jhb and Cpt branches. It would've been ideal. I had the same thought, albeit a less elegant solution. Just hope that it's handled properly on the day. Thank you Dave303e and Duane_Bosch, I'll give this route a go! Thanks for all the replies, I really do appreciate it!

Hi All, First time posting a new topic so if this isn't in the right place, feel free to move it I'm traveling from Jhb to Cpt for the festive season and would like to take my bike along with me, thus I need a bike box as I'm flying. I have contacted a few rental companies and none of which do one-way travel. I'll only be using the box for my flight from Jhb to Cpt and a few weeks thereafter Cpt to Jhb and really don't see the worth in paying for 3 weeks worth of rental if I'm only going to use it for 2 days in total. - It ends up costing as much as a 2nd hand box, which is a lot. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

+1 Hospitality is great, trails are very well maintained and nothing beats riding in-between game. (no predators of course)

They are incredibly fun to drive, easy to maintain and at that price point, hard to beat. To be honest, the modified ones are for the most part more reliable than stock... (If it was done professionally or up to the same standards) Especially on the EJ25 motors. They have this nasty tendency to get ring-land failures when you turn the boost up a bit. - Speaking out of experience. Getting one with a forged bottom-end ensures he skips that R120k bill. - a bigger turbo and supporting mods doesn't hurt either.

New here... This is my current toy