Dean111

Thats good to hear sir, thank you for the help i would do it with you in a blink but i am in roodepoort area

Aah thank you Sir, i was quoted outrageous prices by some with questionable intentions. The width of the crank "tube" on the outside you mean ?

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Can anyone tell me what bearings i require for an old cannondale. I was told it is a standard 68mm bottom bracket. Then would it be simply replacing bearings or is this a sealed unit that needs to be purchased ?

Thank you sir. So i need to order two 2RS bearings. Is it a tough job to get the bearings out of an i-drive 3 or is it the same as most every mtb ? I have heard it is quite a job to service the suspension mechanism on the idrive, but its not clear if i one would need to take out the whole mechanism (which requires a suite of tools) to get to the crank bearings ? Or is pulling the crank bearings on this bike an easier job ?

I have a little play on the crank pedals, the suspension is butter smooth with no suspension creeking. Is replacing the crank bearings the same as any other mtb ? Or is it a major job ? what bearings do i need ? (i hear a clicking sound when pedalling as well as a little play on the crank arms)

Thank you sir, exactly as i originally thought, i have taken to the lbs and he immediately replaced with a longercable, fiddled with the derailleur for 20 seconds afterwards and shifting was perfect. thanks for all the support !

Yes that seems to be the obvious thing, but it is tight, i pull it with pliers then tighten the deralleur cable bolt after the shifter was shifted into the last gear (smallest casette ring setting)

9 speed old school shimano hg casette 9 speed deore shifters, RD M771 deraileur. sram 159 chain Do i need a different derailleur hanger or only extend the sleeve from Derailleur to frame ? Or is this setup just not compatible for some reason ?

Upshift does not work well, downshift is ok, the cable sleeve from derailleur to the frame is a bit short but will that issue alone influence upshift ?

Sorted thanks

Does anyone know who perhaps sell brake pads or compatible brake pads for the 2003 hayes HFX Mag in roodepoort areas ?

I have read people using motor until someone mentioned it contains derergants that will dry out the chain. That is why i still do not know if the 4T honda motorcycle oil that i have that is not used anymore contains detergents ? If not it really seems like it could work, not thick at all. But does it contain detergents like regular car oil ?

Ok so the honda 4T oil in my pic should be good ?

Thanks for all the opinions. Where can i get q20 bike lube seems like its not easy to get hold of. Will none of my options in the picture above be any good ? Simply put i want something that works well but is not hard to come by. Will Cajees have something ? Only bike shop i know of near me ( florida/westrand/roodepoort.

Getting back into cycling now i recall many years ago a shop called discount cycles in randburg that sold me a chain lubricant that smelled like bannanas. Worked great did not attract dirt i just cant recall what it was named and it probably is not being made anymore ? I have the following in the Garage.(see attached) Can i use any of these oils on my chain or should i rather get something else ? I have heard someone say automotive oil contains detergants that will wash away oil in the chain so its not to be used. Is this the sane fir motorbike oil ? The one's pictured is thin motorbike oil from honda 10w 30 then castrol 80w 90 which some say attracts dirt. Castrol atf dx II which i use for power steering fluid and then a bottle of sasol synthetic m api sm/cf 5w/40. Will any if these be good or rubbish ? I am in the west rand area. If i should get something else, what should i get.

Thanks guys, yea it seems like a dumb question but been a dedicated rider in the past never ever did i have to put new grease on a quick release skewer ever. I think i am just going to rub it clean with a cloth and add a thin layer of bns grease which i have to buy or castrol 80W -90 transmission fluid ? As i have it with me.but maybe its too runny so maybe i will get the grease thanks. Reason to use lube/grease is just to prevent possible rust over a long time (not going to ride in mud or rain) but maybe in some dust.....Once clamped dust should not be able to get in there ? I mean it did not have dust on it when taken out and it was a little greased.

This comes out of the rear wheel(see attached with red arrow) is it the rear wheel axel rod ? What grease should i put on this rod? It fell into the sand when i removed it so now have to clean and re grease but what should i put on and where can i get it in the west rand ?

Hi Everyone. I would just like to know. How can i make certain a bike i am buying is not stolen if the owner do not have receipts. Can a reputable bicycle shop check for me ? Regards D

Hi, Does anyone know where i can buy a good quality set of allen key/screwdrivers with torque indication, i'd like to tighten my bike's bolts with equal tension as per reccomendation by my bike's manufacturer. I'm in the wesrand and randburg area.

Got the new bike on Tuesday, it's an upgrade for the suppliers did not have the 800 in stock so i got the 1000 and am happy with the service from them thumbs up to the team ! However now i found after removing all the stickers that one of the cranks have a chip in it, seems like the manufacturer's or distributers or whoever covered it up with a small sticker. Anyway, i really don't feel like hassling the shop again so i'd rather buy a new crank it's the one opposite the chainwheel, what does a new Deore/SLX Crank cost ? And what about an XT one ? What prices am i looking at + - ? Thanks

Hi tdrongo The paint i used was of an old school project (those cheap paint used for painting on paper i just could'nt stand looking at those chips and had to do something now! so lucky me it washed right off. I almost went and bought some quality spray paint and do the job properly. I spoke to them today and they said they would replace the bike, so far so good, will report back once i have the new bike. The discs still move very slightly but i don't like it, hopefully the new bike's discs would be precise. Thanks

The problem is that when i look at the rotor/disc i can see it move/wobble between the pads, the wheels are in straight. i push them as far down i they can go then lock the wheel. I feel like wanting them to order me a new bike all together, i worked hard for that money and it just does not feel right. I really don't like to fight for a replacement/refund i'm not that kind of person and have enough worries at work, i just wish they checked everything before handing over the bike, it's so busy there one can only look at the finer details at home which i did and discovered the problems then.

Thank you for the replies. i loosened the caliper and was able to align the discs so they run freely, however now i found another thing that's bothering me. I see the discs does not turn precicely true, as if they are slightly warped. very little but it's noticable. and the one slightly touches the disc pad. I checked both front and rear discs and both have the slight wobble. Is this normal ? Should i take it back and get new wheels ? I'm just afraid the next set would have the same issue. Regarding the paint chips on the frame i touched it up with some paint and am willing to live with it but it's going to bother me for a long time and i would've rather wanted a new bike without any chips. Also one rim is badly scratched very short but quite deep, that wheel i will take back for a replacement. Would they swop the bike out for another one ? I know they don't have any more Merida XL frames in stock at their branch, what do you guys think i should do ? Is there a Linden cycles member on this forum i can post my concerns to, they are all always so busy ?

Hi I have bought a new merida tfs 800D from linden cycles. My disc brakes: shimano br m445. The front disc does not sit perfectly between the pads when i tighten the wheel, so it is not spinning free Is there a way to adjust it can someone please help ? really looks like an alignment issue of the caliper itself and not the pads ? The rear disc i can see sits perfectly in the middle with no friction at all. I'm considering taking the bike back for there are some paint chips on the frame, some derailuer scratches and the rims also have scratches. Man i paid good money for this bike and this is just not right