jmaccelari

Mark the Troll!

Probably. In fact the deep section rims would probably be slower since they typically have more rotational inertia (are harder to "spin up") and this may overshadow any aerodynamic gains.

true replication is impossible So? The aim of statistics is to allow for non-"replicability". If all systems were non-stochastic we would not have any need for statistics. So the fact we have a stochastic system (no true replication) means we can use statistics - under the correct circumstances. As for "true replication": ask Rick Deckard...

cannot be done ... statistically impossible The distance is too short and measurement errors would overshadow any measured differences over such a short time. The manufacturers talk of a minute or so's advantage over 100kms...

Nope - it ain't the only one. The iBike beat the SRM to market. So there are currently two compatible options, with a third (the Quarg CinQo) due to be released next month.

Here's a license I found this morning. I believe it belongs to the Eskom guy in charge of maintenance... Notice how he manages to get the lines to cross (senior management)

To move forward: A friend has asked me about lights. I told him to avoid Topeak (no surprise there), but what do Hubbers recommend? Sigma seems to be a good choice. Any others? Also I see guys stating LEDs are good. From what I see they are still not up to the light levels of HID, but are more robust and last longer.

I have one. Newly serviced - globe and starter replaced. I was thinking of putting it in the Junk Mail (oohh - nassstyyy).

"Doing Trans Baviaans or the Epic with the Garmin is impossible" Really - I've just completed the Epic using a Garmin Edge 305. I can send you the tracks if you like? All I had to do was charge it every night. The 9 hours battery life was no issue - the longest I rode for was 8. The cut off is 10 hours. Notice, that my quoted battery life is not the actual limit, just what I have pushed it to. The 705 theoretically does 15 hours.

I had a Polar S725 with several cadence and speed sensors (for my several bikes - it got expensive). When the Edge 305 came out, I bought one and sold all my Polar stuff. I love the Edge 305 and have just purchased an Edge 705 - an even better unit. So to compare: Garmin Edge 305 Pros: (I won't compare the 705 'cos Polar just ain't in that market) - I use no sensors - I just cable tie the mount onto a bike and it's ready to use (no cadence, though: see cons) - no magnets to set up and maintain! I don't bother putting on the speed sensor. - grade display - up to 8 different simultaneous readings on two screens (I use one for total and the other for lap - fantastic for the Epic) - profile and trail: very useful for MTB (where _did_ I go?) - nice, big easy to read display (larger size is good sometimes!) - our club has the MTB rides on the Web, I can download them and follow a route I have never ridden before. I also digitise in the races I do and it tells me when the turns are (I stopped our group from taking a wrong turn at the Carousel last year). Don't laugh at the fact that it knows where you are and where you should be going... - easy to use interface (I don't have to go scrolling through 5 screens to find what I want) - waterproof and easy to clean for MTB rides - you can replace the batteries in the HRM strap and cadence sensor yourself (no trips off to Polar). Garmin Edge 305 cons: - 9 hour battery life; - the cadence sensor eats batteries (1 a month at the rate I cycle - 18hrs/week); - the mounts are a bit flimsy and expensive to replace. - no temperature readout Weight and size are not an issue. As I stated, I now have an Edge 705 and I will be buying a power meter for it. I can choose which one (unlike Polar) as it supports the ANT+ Sport protocol, which is becoming an industry standard. I also use it on my motorbike (it gives me directions, too!). Try and do that with a Polar. Do I miss my Polar? Yep - it was a "bling" watch to show I was a "serious" cyclist...

In May last year, I decided to splash out on a decent light for winter. I was prepared to spend enough to get a decent light and blew R3k on a Topeak Moonshine. From the start the unit gave trouble - it was difficult to start, but once on, worked fantastically well. I packed it away in August after 4 months use. I then took it out in February to do an MTB night ride, and it was even worse than ever - switching off after a few seconds for about 10 to 20 minutes until I finally managed to get it to stay on. Thinking I had bought a decent unit at a price that would ensure after sales backup, I sent it to the agents for repair - stating to my LBS that the problem was the unit was switching on, but not staying on. R640 later, they had replaced the globe and when I got home, I found the unit was exactly as before! I then sent it back. I got it back again, and they had replaced a "faulty" component. I then said I wanted my money back for the working globe they had replaced for no reason and charged me (which my LBS had kindly tossed in the bin for me). I have just gotten off the phone from Supersport Cycles (the Topeak agents) and their story is: - the globe was faulty. In fact they stated the globe was dead. This is complete BS as the problem was the unit switching off. How does a completely dead globe switch on and then off repeatedly? - they stated they had then replaced the starter and proudly said that since they had replaced the globe, they had not charged for it, saving me "over R200". Why did they do this repair free when they had charged me three times that to replace the globe? Do I detect them trying to recover from an expensive (for the customer) c0ck-up? When I stated the unit was less than a year old, I was told to check my manual and refer the the limited warranty - this basically states that the battery, globe and starter have no warranty (essentially the entire unit!). So, I have now stumped up close on R4k for a unit that has no dealer support and where the dealer will screw the customer if he makes a mistake. Nice. I have been chatting to several people with Topeak Moonshines and it seems that problems with these units are common (switching off and batteries dying are the two common complaints - neither of which are covered by warranties). My advice (after an expensive lesson): steer clear of Topeak lights. I have now given up on Topeak rubbish and forked out for a Light & Motion ARC Li-Ion. Let's see how that goes...

Please check your facts before distributing untruths! This may have been true 3 or 4 years ago, but I know that both Cycle Lab and Club 100 have worked hard to address this issue. I run the marshalling at Cycle Lab and have done so for 3 years now. We have 35 full time Marshals assisted by 60 Race Team members. All are trained to stop at traffic lights and obey traffic regulations, and any reports of not doing so are treated immediately on a case by case basis. Believe me - when a Club Member is unhappy we hear about it quickly!!! We have too many members to allow traffic rule transgressions and to allow such behaviour would probably open us up to liability if anything were to happen. We have produced manuals for both Marshals _and_ Club members on how to behave on a ride and proactively enforce good behaviour. Both are available from the Cycle Lab web site in PDF format (under the Club section). If you have any problem with (official) Cycle Lab Club rides, please contact me directly at "jeremy at maccelari.com". Please also note that a lot of complaints we get are actually not even about Cycle Lab members, but since we are the largest and most visible Club (and I have to boast - the best organised!), we tend to collect the flak for any cyclists' bad behaviour!