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  1. I am no great expert, and I am not a racer. Your first decision is 26 v 29. You can get a bike with better components right now as a 2nd hand 26’er at 40-60% of the price of a new one, or better. I did this when we started riding and bought two almost new GT Avalanche 1.0’s at R4k and R3k respectively about 2 and a half years ago (and XL and a M). The risk in buying 2nd hand is hidden frame damage and/or worn parts and/or a stolen bike. You need to inspect and sit on the bike. If you buy new, at your price range you will have to compromise on components. I am also 1.9 m. I would go with a bottom of the range 29’er with the same frame as more expensive models in the same range. Three such solid choices at about R6 k are Silverback Vida, Momsen AL 126, GT Karakoram. You can upgrade components as you replace worn parts over time. You get good components on the Hub when members try to save a few grams in buying more expensive parts. I have bought a new Momsen AL 529R (XL) last year that I bought at a huge discount (R3k) as being old stock after I had looked for months for a 2nd hand one. I could not get a shop with Silverback stock in my area, as it would have been my first choice. After riding the Momsen, I can only say that I love it. I still have the GT (XL), and still ride it, as it is more work when I train or if I do not want to ride away from a friend. The other GT now has an XL Silverback frame (my son grew through two frames). I ended up with mostly Shimano parts on our bikes, which I now stick to in order to learn how to fix what we have got. I do not know how big the difference is between different model ranges in group sets, the writers say that you can feel the difference between Shimano SLX and XT and XTR. I do not know if this is so. Do not worry too much about components, just ride! [i would immediately do a tubeless conversion if I were you.]
  2. My club kit is great, but the shorts are similar to a wrestling suit/old fashioned swimming costume. Do you take a leak from the bottom of a leg, over the top or by undressing? I am a bit scared that I may injure myself if I have to wrestle with the lycra, keep my bike upright and do my bit for global warming, all at the same time.
  3. Francois, they mock us. But I too would want to have an idea of the route. This race will take a big effort from me to complete. I am surprised that nothing has been published about the route. Good luck. And no, I am not an accountant.
  4. Thanks, and check for a stiff link in the chain too
  5. See http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Chains/Chain_sizes
  6. I am a newbie. The cog and cranks are fixed. They cannot be the problem in slipping. The chain cannot stretch. It cannot be the problem in slipping. It seems to me to me that you first have to get the chain lenght right, second have to index the rear derraileur, third set the slack right on the cable, THEN LASTLY GO AND RIDE INCLUDING STEEP HILLS FOR THE FINAL SMALL ADJUSTMENTS TO ENSURE SMOOTH CHANGING AND NO JUMPING. The final stage would reveal at most problems in the extreme gears, little tweaks to set the shifting right.
  7. Ek het iets opgesit wat my "handlebar" gelig het deur die vurk se "stem" te verleng, jy kan ook kyk na 'n "stem" waaraan die "handlebars" vaskom wat skuins na bo loop instede van gelyk met die grond. Ek wou nog noem dat die ander vraag is if jy genoeg plek het om regop te staan en trap of om skerp te draai. Indien so, is die raam ook daarom reg. Sterkte
  8. I am new too. I am 1.9m and bought a GT XL. For a long time I thought that it was too big for me. It now fits me very well, but I still think that a L could have been fine. Your height is only part of the issue. Both a L and an XL would have to be adjusted to fit you. I am a misfit. I have long legs. The height of the saddle can be the same on both a L and an XL. The height of the handlebars can be the same on both a L and an XL (about equal to the saddle). The position of the saddle can be the same both a L and an XL (so that your knee is in the right place over the cranks). The question then is if your reach is right. For me an XL top tube felt too long. I have shortened the handle bar stem and put my saddle in such a place that it now fits me very well, but I cannot move my saddle back much if a knee were to ask for it. My next (29’er steel frame?) bike will have a steeper tube under the saddle (if I could bear to part with my GT). The reason for saying thus is that when your saddle is heigh, and the tube angle is relaxed (as on a GT), your weight is too far back, I think. Your weight should be more over the cranks, I think. As I said, I am new to this. I think an L is fine for you. Just keep going and flirt with the pain, you will fall in love ... Is jou "handlebar" nie te laag nie?
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