pedal_bob

Interesting. I have one of the early (May 2013) Acid Green frames. They must have started putting holes in later. What size hole? I was thinking of drilling a 4mm hole.

Has anyone here drilled a hole in the bottom of their bottom bracket shell on their frame? I ask because I just replaced my BB which was seizing and when I removed it from the frame gunky water came out that seems to have got into the frame and pooled at the bottom bracket. I thought drilling a small hole would allow water to drain. Any thoughts?

That's good to know that they have tracked down the cause to a batch. I never doubted Patrick's integrity and have only heard good things about him and his "go beyond" effort to make his customers happy. I've spoken with him a few times when I was in the process of buying my frame back in mid 2013. He even lent me his 110 to test ride at the Pietermaritzburg UCI course when I was down there visiting SA in March 2013. I only wish Pyga made a long travel 29er (Stage MAX not quite there for me). The 110 rear is at the limit on some trails I ride and would love a 140 on the rear like the YT Jeffsy or Pivot Switchblade.

The concerning thing here is, why are these frames cracking? As far as I'm aware it's only the 110 frames that are cracking in that place on the seat tube. Are people riding the 110s too hard (too big drop-offs, hucking to flat too much) and pushing the bike beyond their designed capability? Are the cracks from high stress points introduced by welds that haven't been properly stressed relieved or is it just a matter of the tube and layout design that creates high stress points at that location in the frame? Seized bearings on the rocker? Does it have to do with how far the seat post is inserted? Is it a particular batch? All questions that can be asked to try determine the cause. Has Pyga managed to find any reason for the breakages? And why only the on the 110? Got to say that a cracked chainstay on a Pyga must be a first though and pretty unlucky. It would be interesting to know how many 110 frames have cracked as a percentage of total units sold. I'd imagine it's quite small otherwise there would be more noise around about it.

That looks quite neat. I think I may just try that. Thanks for posting.

I use a 150mm 9Point8 Fall Line (9point8.ca) dropper post on my OneTen with the 25mm layback. You can specify whether you want a straight or layback seat clamp as they are interchangable. The post works really well and I've had no issues with it riding for 8 months in dry dusty and very wet and muddy conditions.

Just a heads up on the shock mount needle bearings I came across by RWC (enduroforkseals), they have a kit for the rocker side but not the bottom. I'm sending measurements over to see if they have anything that will match the bottom end and will update this when I get an answer.

Thanks that's good to know.

I was wondering more about how the zip ties are wearing the round spacer on the shock mount. I would think it would remove the coating eventually wear a groove in to it no? On the trial fit I did routing the cable your way certainly frees up the swing arm as there is no friction caused by the cable sliding up and down inside the chainstay due to the additional slack you have in bend going through the zip tie. I was just concerned that the zip tie would wear out the spacer on the shock mount.

Thanks for confirming that tight bushes is normal. I didn't remember it being like that so was surprised when I found how tight it was. I'll look at the bushes you linked to. In my research I came across these needle bearings (http://enduroforkseals.com/id374.html) which look good but, as expected, the Pyga frame is not listed in their standard list. I'll e-mail them and see if they can do something for the Pyga. On my strip down I found that some of my link arm bearings are not so smooth any more and my BB bearings are feeling rough. I'll do a full bearing service / replacement including the shock mount bushes in the winter when riding becomes limited.

I am in the process of doing a complete strip down of my OneTen 29 after a long ride that involved lots of mud and 18 stream crossing some of which were deep enough to completely submerge the BB and hubs. I have two things I want to get advice or an opinion on. One of the things I'm looking at improving is the cable routing. I currently route the rear dérailleur cable down the top of the down tube and straight across the top of the BB into the chainstay. I noticed that when the swing arm moves up it's actually putting tension on the cable causing it to sliding in and out of the chain stay. I spotted the photo above and see that here the the cable is suspended from the shock lower pivot sleeve with zip ties. How is this working out? Is the zip tie wearing the sleeve on the shock pivot at all? I'd imagine that there would be quite a bit of rub from the zip tie on that sleeve. Whilst reinstalling my shock, I noticed that when I tighten up the shock lower pivot bolt it seems to be clamping the shock pivot and making it stiff for the shock to pivot freely. I assume this is not normal and must affect the suppleness of the rear suspension due to the friction of rotating about the pivot. I tightened to a torque of 16Nm which I don't think is excessive. Any ideas on how I can free up the pivoting on the lower pivot? I've done nothing to the shock apart from removing and cleaning it and can see no easy obvious way to remove the sleeve from the shock eyes.

I've seen 3. Not the same photo but I can't say for sure that it wasn't the same bike. The first photo was about 3-4 months ago. I know one of the cracked frames belongs to a guy that rides with my brother in SA and it's not the one in the photo above. Never nice to see a cracked frame on any bike. One another note, are the new 110s still the same geometry or have the lengthened the reach and slackened it a little more. Seems to be the trend.

Anyone know why the frames crack? This is not the first 110 cracked frame I've seen. They all cracked in the same place too. I live in the US and am paranoid about my 110 frame cracking as there is no Pyga representation out here, as far as I know, and dread the hassle of dealing with customs, freight costs etc to warranty a frame. On the plus side, I think I'm the only Pyga rider out here It always get looks and positive comments

I don't know about Reverbs, but I have a 9 Point 8 Fall Line (440long x 150drop) which has a 230mm bottom tube length (bottom of tube to bottom of boss) and that only just fits into a larger frame when fully inserted (i.e. the bottom of the tube gets to the kink in the seat tube). I guess it all depends on how much of the bottom tube you need to insert to get to your riding seat hight. Check out the drawing for the reverb and you should be able to figure it from that.

Yep, I wouldn't mind but I currently have a 25mm setback on my seatpost and 90% of the droppers are straight which really limits my options. With the 9point8 Fall Line dropper you can specify straight or 25mm setback. It's also priced fairly competitively.

I was looking at the position where that hole would go and was wondering how to route the cable from there. How is it routed on the newer frames? Does it go under the BB or what? It doesn't look like there is really an ideal route for the cable especially on the older frames with on provision for routing on the bottom of the down tube. GrahamS2, did you drill the hole yet?

Great! So just to be clear, you drill the hole mid way between the two horizontal lines, so 5-7mm below the first line-right? What about the grommet? Any suggestions of what to use? Rouxtjie, a photo of the routing and close up of the bracket would be appreciated thanks. Just want to see how they've done it on the new models. The routing will be a challenge but my first though was to just run it up along one of the other cables on the downtube as you suggested. '3 cable' clamps are available online from various vendors so it should work out to be a fairly neat solution. The other option I thought that may work would be to reroute the rear brake hose along the top tube and then down the seat stay to the calliper which would free up one of the down tube slots. I'm not at my bike so cannot check if that would really be viable but I'm sure I saw a photo of someone on here that has routed the rear hose like that.

Will definitely post back here when I get the answer. Agree drilling into the frame is a little scary but a small new sharp bit for a pilot hole then open it up with a new larger bit should work OK. Just put tape on the frame where the hole will go to prevent the paint chipping. May have to open the hole into an oval with a Dremmel depending because of the angle that the cable enters. I'll ask Pyga if they can provide the hole dimensions if they say yes to drilling the hole. Thanks rouxtjie I will take you up on the offer if I get the green light from Pyga. Will call them in the morning to hear their thoughts.

Has anyone successfully installed a stealth dropper post into a Oneten 29 that didn't have the hole in the frame for the internal cable routing pre-drilled at the facrtory? I would like to get a 9point8 Fall Line dropper but it's only available with internal routing and was wondering if anyone has successfully drilled a hole in their frame for their dropper cable I know the newer 110s come with a hole now so is there any harm in drilling a small hole in the same location then fitting some sort of grommet to seal the cable in the hole?

Thanks. That's useful.

Thanks. Not much chance of me finding those where I am I don't think. Do you happen to have a close up of them? I may try get something similar 3D printed. It looks like they are two parts, a bottom cradle and the top clamp. That's what I liked about them.

What cable and hose clamps are you using on there?

It's funny that 710mm bars are now considered narrow or short-ish. My first bike had 640mm bars and that at the time seemed quite normal. When I built my Pyga in early 2013 710 was considered wide-ish. Now we're talking about 800s. As for the trail builders here, they deliberately keep the trails tight to make it more challenging. Not something I completely agree with mind you as I've had a few near misses where my bar has brushed the trees whilst zooming down the tight trail at 30km/h.

Thanks. I'll go with a 50mm and see how it feels. My bars are 710mm at the moment. How is the new bike working out for you? I'd be interested in hearing what you think of the change and whether it really makes any difference and what you feel is better or worse. I have a 710mm at the moment and will go to a 50mm stem. My only reservation with going wider on the bar is that some of the trails in the forests that I ride here are very narrow and my 710 bars only just clear between the trees so 780mm may be a problem.

What stem lengths are other 110 Pyga riders using? I'm riding more aggressive AM / Enduro style trails (previously I was riding more XC style trials) so am going to increase my fork travel to 140mm and was thinking of reducing my stem from 80mm to 45mm - 50mm ish and was wondering what others are generally running an how the bike handles with the 140mm and quicker steering.