pedal_bob

Yep, I've always experienced great service and prompt replies from them. I only asked here first because I could have sworn I read a discussion about the pivot bearings and their maintenance on here but was obviously wrong

Okay got a response from Pyga Looks like they are using Enduro bearings.

Thanks, I'll email them. I seem to remember a discussion here about suspension bearings and servicing them but cannot find it any more. Perhaps it was another forum. Still loving the Pyga. Get a lot of compliments on the trails here. I think I'm the only one in the US.

Thanks. I was hoping to preorder the bearings to reduce my down time.

I'm going to be doing a full service on my OneTen and one of the things I want to check are the swing arm and pivot bearings. Does anyone have a list of the bearing sized used on the 110 swing arm and pivot points? Also are there any specific brand bearings would you recommend putting in? I know the big brands like skf, fag, etc make create bearing but was wondering if there are more MTB specific bearings around.

I think the 12.1Kg quoted was for a OneTwenty not the OneTen which is what you have isn't it? It'll be hard (read expensive) to get a OneTen 29 down to 12.1Kg.

I have a large with XT drive train (2x10) but SLX brakes, Arch EX wheels on DT Swiss 350 hubs, a RS Revelation RCT3 Dual Air 20mm Maxle fork, Truvative T30 riser bars, Raceface turbine seat post, and it comes in just over 13Kg ready to ride. When I built it, I was hoping to get closer to 12.5Kg - I think the extra weight is in the wheelset and finishing kit.

Just a quick question. I'm looking for a bike carrier and was wondering what people are using with their Pygas. I can't make up my mind whether to go for a platform type or the hanging type. It's to go on a tow hook. I like the idea of the platform as all the clamping is to the wheels and not the frame but they look bulky and heavy to fit and remove regulary. It'll be going on a 2012 Golf (Mk6) GTI.

Thanks for confirming. I just can't remember having this issue when I built the bike but that was last July so it's possible I have just forgotten. If that is the case I'm surprised the tension screw unwound itself that far without me noticing. But thanks for confirming it's normal on this frame as it was driving crazy trying to figure out what changed. Yes, I double checked that a number of times and the lock pin is definitely in the correct position.

Hi guys. I need a bit of a sanity check. I just unpacked my OneTen29 from my EVOC flight bag and when I reattached the derailleur I noticed that the top of it was fouling with the chainstay. To make the derailleur clear the frame I had to turn in the B screw in 3.5 turns. Now when I shift up onto the biggest cog on the back, the top jockey wheel is about 12mm from the big cog as opposed to the 5-6 mm it should be as described in Shimano's set up guide. http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/shimano_zpse4889b22.png I don't remember me having this problem when I built the bike and am pretty certain that it was all OK before I packed the bike although that was about two months ago. All I did was remove the derailleur from the drop out before packing the bike so I can't understand why it's so far out now when reattaching. The rear triangle and frame look straight and don't show any signs that they have been bent. There is no visible signs anywhere on the bag that it was stressed. Also the problem is in the vertical plane and I don't see the frame bending in that way. I'd appreciate if any OneTen29 owners with a XT M786 Shadow+ derailleur and XT M771 11-36 cassette can confirm that there setups are OK and that their derailleurs don't foul with the chainstay with the B screw set to maintain the 5mm gap between the big cog and the top jockey wheel. In the following photos you can see what's happening. The first two show how it was when I re-attached the derailleur - the top of the jockey cage is actually touching the chainstay. http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/th_20140106_145449_zpsf04c6118.jpg http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/th_20140106_145429_zps492d7f49.jpg the next two is with the B screw turned in another 3.5 turns so the derailleur just clears the chainstay but like this there is a 12mm gap between the big cog and top jockey. http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/th_20140106_142131_zps41da502c.jpg http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/th_20140106_142141_zps7c317974.jpg I'm sure it's something simple I am just not seeing so would appreciate your comparisons.

Some shots of my ride. http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/20130724_105951_zpsc3a7ddaf.jpg http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/20130630_08442601_zps38b9540c.jpg http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/20130726_110356_zps3325be1c.jpg

I had a similar problem except when I was in the smallest sprocket. I just backed off the b-screw slightly so the clutch lever just clears the frame. it didn't affect shifting so all good.

A cheaper way, although not perfect, would be to remove the large ring and replace it with a bash ring, replace the middle ring with a larger one (36T or 38T), and wind the high stop screw on the front derailleur down to stop it going over to where the big ring was. Not perfect as I said, but a cheaper way to covert to 2x10.

For those of you running XT rear dérailleurs on your Pygas, can you confirm your cages of your dérailleurs are 'kicked' out as shown in my photos below? This happens when I run on the large/large combo. To me it doesn't look right and is the source of my chain rattle when running large/ large gears. http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/chainline1_zps6f92f277.png http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/chainline3_zps2fbf9d52.pnghttp://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/chainline2_zps5ed1ec4e.png Here you can see that the lower jockey wheel is almost climbing on to the outside of the chain. http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/bbf5fd5e-84c5-45d7-a731-9872d2b82738_zpsff16a148.jpg

Yes mine is not perfect either. I'm running a full XT 2x10 set up and whilst my shifting seems ok (could be better on the front) I am getting a lot of chain rattle when running on the large large combo. The noise seems to be coming from two places. One, where the chain runs onto the top of the large ring on the front and two where the chain runs onto the bottom of the lower jockey wheel on the rear derailleur. In comparison on my old Scott I don't get any chain rattle issues with its 3x9 setup no matter which gear combo I run. @ awesome, Did you try nursing the b-screw? I found that there definitely is a sweet spot with it.

Did any of you have trouble mounting Schwalbe RoRo or RaRa tyres to the Arch EX rims? I just can't get mine on, not even the first side. Using plenty of soapy water, tyre levers and brute force but still the tyre won't go over the rim edge. So I'd like to try another tyre. Even if I got the tyre on eventually, I'd not feel comfortable with it as it would be impossible to do a trailside repair or tube fitment if necessary as I wouldn't be able to unmount / remount the tyre. How do the Maxxi Ikons or GEAX Saguaro fit? Are they also a impossibly tight fit? Any other tyre suggestions. Looking for something light and with similar characteristics to the RaRa / RoRo tyre.

Yeah, that is where I am crossing mine at the moment. It's the neatest way I can find of doing it with my set-up. http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/20130616_12371001_zps23a1060a.jpg If the cable guide lugs at the top of the down tube were just an inch lower one could comfortably do the cross over at the top just under the top tube / down tube intersection and would make it quite neat. In your case you could run the rear brake hose up the left side of the down tube, around the left side of the head tube to the brake lever on the right. Then for the rear dérailleur you run that up the right side of the down tube and cross to the left after the top cable guide lug under the top tube / down tube intersection then around the left of the head tube to the shifter on the right. That way you'd only have one cross over.

So I'm getting close to completing my build and have a question or want some ideas. Anyone here running with front brake on the right hand-side (what's norm in SA?)? I run with my front on the right and find that I need to cross the rear dérailleur cable and rear brake hose cables on the down tube so brake cable goes to right side of headtube and rear dérailleur cable to left side of head tube? I tried crossing at the top of the head tube above the last set of cable guide lugs but it's very tight to cross there and I'm afraid it may eventually kink or crimp the cable or hose. Also tried crossing at bottom of the head tube before the first cable clamp but aesthetically it doesn't look that great. Crossing half way up looks even worse. Just interested to hear what others have done with a similar setup.

You have a nice spec there. I can't wait for all my bits to arrive so I can start building. So far I have the frame, RS Rev RCT3 fork and the bottom part of the headset. the rest is in transit somewhere between me and Germany.

Too late. The L is sitting here in front of me. Unfortunately, the XL wasn't available for testing when I was in PMB and no chance of testing any Pygas here as the nearest to test is 2600Kms away. After comparing the geo with my existing bike, top tube length is the same length, reach is 9mm more on the Pyga and my test ride I'm happy I have the correct size. The XL may fit well too but I was always advised to take the smaller frame if you're on the cusp.

Thanks for the comments Graham. I'm on the cusp of the L and XL for my height. I test rode the L in PMB and it felt fine. Good to hear your build came in at just under 12.6Kg. My target was to be no higher than 12.5Kg. The FB page say you had a full XT build. What did you use for the wheels, fit and finishing kit?

A little late to the party but look what turned up yesterday. Hopefully the rest of the stuff will arrive next week. http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/13181d2f-bc68-4092-8ddb-0c7f4e65307b_zpsef4a9146.jpg Really happy with it. If I had to be critical I'd say their paint shop needs to sort out their cleanliness. There are a few places where it looks like dust has settled onto the paint during the spray process. Are the other painted Pygas the same or is mine a Friday frame lol?

Thanks for your comments. I stuck pretty much with what I listed previously, except I went for a RaceFace Turbine seatpost instead of the Truvativ as it's lighter and I found it for a great price. I'm going to try an old 80mm stem that I already have to see how that fits before buying another one. So far I have the RS Revelation RCT3 140mm (to be dropped to 120mm) fork here. The frame should be arriving today. Whoopee.

Good to hear. I'm planning on coming down for the J2C in 2015.

What did it weigh finished? Did he decide on the black cranks in the end? First photo shows silver cranks.