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Why not use a light steel file and file away a line of metal so you can use a screw driver to 'pop' it and it will come?
Either way, I am very glad this isn't me! Good luck to all of you with jammed seat posts!
The struggle to date shows that the post is bonded on almost every MM of the inside of the tube, or at least that is how it feels!
So the depth from the top of collar now makes, filing or hack saw blade efforts very very difficult...
Good luck! If there is still noise there may well be movement so it may not be too late.
My mission ended badly with a section of seat post now jammed into the frame well below the seat post collar.
If anyone has an engineering contact who could drill out the last section (approx 6 - 8 CM) jammed roughly 5 CM from the top of the tube it would be appreciated.
Or Blind bearing puller.
You cut the seatpost flush with the frame and insert the puller all the way to the bottom of the seatpost then expand it (this can be tricky depending on who much post is in the frame). then knock it out.
Done this on more than one occasion.
Jeez hoping that the vice + Q20 and or coke + 24 hours stew time may do the trick!
Odd question but are you using the original (exactly correct) size clamp. Niner has a specific/ unusual clamp size and perhaps a slightly smaller clamp has been opened up & fitted on to the frame. This could have clamped the frame (closing the slot in the frame) almost permanently so even when you undo the clamp the frame is still gripping the post.
Not sure if that's the case. Just thinking out the box so to speak.
You could try lift the clamp from the frame (up the post) and squeezing the frame slot open - maybe by turning a flat screwdriver, gently.
Hope that makes sense.
Thanks for an alternate suggestion, was on the Sheldon Brown list too.
I have not changed clamp but did buy the bike second hand. However since the loosen, Q20 and ride test was done the clamp is moving fairly freely around the seat post clamp area so it seems that it is probably the right size.
I think I will have a go with the "wiggle a flat screw driver in the slot" approach before the coke soak wait and then wrestle one.
Found this at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html
- Do not try to remove a seatpost by pulling on it with a pipe wrench, locking pliers or any other tool. Instead, use a saddle. Nothing gets as good a grip on a seatpost as a saddle, because it has the hardware designed specifically for the purpose. If you are worried about damaging a good saddle, use one of the yellow BMX saddles you have in the cellar.
- At the first sign of difficulty in moving a seatpost, remove the seatpost bolt completely, don't just loosen it. Sometimes this is all that it will take.
- The next thing to try is prying the ears of seat lug apart slightly with a screwdriver. [Only with a steel frame, though. This can permanently damage an aluminum or carbon-fiber frame. -- John Allen] Sometimes it is easiest to stick a flat-bladed screwdriver between the ears and twist gently. Other times you may have better luck by inserting a large Phillips head screwdriver or Allen wrench into the bolt hole on one ear at a time and bending the two sides individually.
- Most repairs are easier if the bike is held in a workstand, and for some jobs it is helpful to have the bike partially disassembled. This is not the case with seatpost extraction.
It is easiest to work with a fully assembled bike, sitting on the floor on its own tires. When pulling on the seatpost, the best way to hold the bike down is to put a foot on a pedal.
[The moving parts of a suspension seatpost are definitely not as strong as a single steel tube or forging. You will have to clamp a suspension seatpost below the suspension. -- John Allen].
You can get the best purchase by standing behind the saddle, with your legs straddling the rear wheel. It may be helpful to have an assistant hold the front end of the bike steady. Even if you don't use an assistant, the front wheel should be restrained from turning from side-to-side. This may be done with a commercial handlebar clamping tool, or by strapping the wheel against the downtube with a toe strap.
- For the most recalcitrant cases, if the seatpost has a one-piece saddle clamp, you can mount the top of the seatpost in a vise, then twist and pull the bike or frame. If you have an assistant handy, have one of you apply the force in a rotational direction, while the other applies force to pull the frame away from the seatpost.
Unfortunately, many seatposts will not lend themselves to this approach, because the saddle clamp may be pressed or bonded to the tubular part of the seatpost, and the joint isn't designed to withstand such force.
- Normally, it is best to raise and lower seatposts straight up or down, without twisting them, because twisting can cause unsightly scratches on the seatpost. This does not apply when you are dealing with badly stuck post, however. With stuck seatposts, your first priority should be to try to turn the seatpost, even if it won't move vertically. You can apply much more effective force rotationally than you can vertically, and if you can get the post to turn, victory is in sight. Once you can turn the seatpost, you can run oil in between it and the seat tube, and the twisting action will distribute the oil, completely freeing the post.
[You could clamp the tube of the seatpost in a vise, but you will ruin it unless you have cylindrical clamp blocks that fit it. Deforming the seatpost could damage the frame too and jam the seatpost in tighter, so clamp it up high. Other possibilities, once you have decided to sacrifice the seatpost, are to drill a hole through it for a bar, or to bend it over, being careful not to damage the frame. If you've drilled the seatpost for a bar, you might try pounding the seatpost out as well as twisting it-- John Allen]
- For steel seatposts stuck into steel frames, where the problem is often caused by rust, penetrating oil can do wonders. If you don't have real penetrating oil, any light lubricating oil is better than nothing, but penetrating oil is made specifically for this purpose, and you should buy a can if you don't already have one.
- Aluminum seatposts frequently become stuck by corrosion also, and penetrating oil is almost useless against aluminum oxide. Fortunately, aluminum oxide can be dissolved like magic by using ammonia. [Jobst Brandt doesn't think this works, because the ammonia won't penetrate -- see his comments on stuck handlebar stems. Drano drain cleaner in water also dissolves aluminum oxide. Leaving the frame upside down with the seatpost soaking in one of these liquids may possibly free the seatpost. With the frame upside down, you might also run liquid down from inside as described in additional suggestions.-- John Allen]
- [Temperature-differential method, which is applicable to any seatpost material: Buy dry ice (solid carbon dioxide, which melts at -78.5° C (- 108° F). If you have access to laboratory supplies, you might also use liquid nitrogen, which is even colder, though its cooling effect is not as great because it boils, forming a shield of gas around itself. Ordinary water ice also might work. Remove the bottom-bracket parts, cork the top of the seatpost if it is open, and with the frame upside-down and a saddle attached to the seatpost, drop chips of (dry) ice or pour liquid nitrogen down the seat tube into the seatpost. Then hold the saddle down on the floor with your feet and twist the frame. You may also warm the seat tube by pouring hot water onto its outside. Wear waterproof winter gloves and boots and socks. Do not touch dry ice, the seatpost or other parts chilled by dry ice or liquid nitrogen, and odn't let them spill on you. I thank John Newgard for this suggestion. Sheldon's original suggestion follows -- John Allen]
- If nothing else works to free up a steel or titanium seatpost, the next-to-last resort is to heat the seat tube up with a hair dryer or propane torch. This should be done with great care so as not to do too much damage to the paint. You should work as fast as you safely can, because you want to heat the seat tube so that it will expand, but if possible you should quickly put the torch down and start pulling on the saddle before the heat works its way through the seat tube and makes the seatpost expand too.
- The torch technique is worse than useless when you are dealing with an aluminum seatpost stuck in a steel or titanium frame, because aluminum expands twice as much as steel, and 2 1/2 times as much as titanium for the same increase in temperature. In fact, the exact opposite technique will often do the trick for aluminum seatposts -- cool the seatpost down as rapidly as possible. The contents of a CO2 tire inflation cartridge applied inside the seatpost can shrink it down just enough to do the trick. [As will dry ice, which is also CO2, and can get the seatpost colder-- John Allen]
- If nothing else works, the final resort is the old hacksaw blade trick. Cut the seatpost off so that about 1/2" is left sticking out, then insert a hacksaw blade into the seatpost and carefully cut a slit in the post. This is very laborious, and you run the risk of damaging the frame if you cut too far, but this approach cannot fail. Once you have cut the slit, grab one edge of the cut with a locking plier and roll the seatpost up inside itself and pull it out.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/images/spoke.gif
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/images/spokeflop.gif
- NEW! Suggestions for carbon fiber frames and seatposts by Witold Walkwski, with interpolated comments by John Allen.
I bought recently a used Kuota Kalibur carbon frame with carbon post. The post got stuck in the frame while being shipped by Fedex. Both the post and seat tube are not round but with a drop shape profile so you cannot even turn it. I tried to lubricate the post with soapy water and with oil. [bad idea: oil expands the resin binder of the composite material and can deteriorate it.] I installed a piece of steel rod in the seat rail clamp, inverted the bike, stood over the inverted bike, stepped on the bar with both feet and pulled on the frame with all the force I had. Nothing happened. Tried to warm up the frame by friction (rubbing with clean soft cloth). Wiggled the post. Not even a sign of improvement. Then I have studied all the posts on the web in this matter. Tried the same exercises again, with zero results, except some pain in my back. Then I confronted the situation, that the only option left would be to cut out the post with a long straight blade which is absolutely crazy and risky on the carbon frame.
Then I stepped back to my engineering thinking (for last 20 years I design and build special prototype machinery). First I checked on the heating / cooling options and found that the thermal expansion of carbon epoxy composites is only 0.000001/F which makes it one of the materials with absolutely best thermal stability - forget about heating or cooling carbon - it will not help and may only damage the frame.
Then I started to analyze the physics of pulling one composite tube out of another. I was sure it was not glued together, as the frame is old enough to be perfectly cured and the tube was there only for a few weeks. It was only held there by friction. It was not inserted with a lot of force so it must have created some mechanism that locks the pieces together. My further conclusion was that if you pull on the frame trying to pull out the post you are causing the seat tube to elongate, which in turn reduces its diameter and causes even tighter clamping on the post. The more force you apply pulling on the seat tube, the It is exactly what happens when you put one piece of plastic tubing in another piece of tubing and then try to pull it out. [like a Chinese finger puzzle -- John Allen]
The best way to do it is not pulling on the outer tubing, but pushing the big tubing off the small tubing, just pressing on the edge of the outer tube while pulling on the end of the inner tube. Now I knew I would be able to do it. I only needed some way to apply reasonably large force just on the top edge of the seat tube. I took two aluminum plates that just fitted nicely between the seat rail clamp plate and the top of the seat tube (one plate on one side of the seat post and the other on the opposite), with the seat rail clamp screws extended by a few turns. Then I gently turned the rail clamp screws in and the seat post just came out without any struggle
:)
- Drastic solution, contributed by Matt Duff: Sodium Hydroxide - AKA Caustic Soda. ONLY FOR AN ALUMINUM SEATPOST IN A STEEL FRAME AS FAR AS I KNOW. It will destroy an aluminum frame. It won't affect steel, and as far as I know it won't affect most plastics.
DISCLAIMER - don't attempt if you are unsure about anything and always use thick rubber gloves, face mask, overalls, boots. Sodium hydroxide will eat away at the aluminium but it will also eat off your skin faster than anything. [Getting it in the eyes can cause blindness. See precautions here. Have a source of running water, and for good measure, a bucket of water ready, in case of an accident.-- John Allen]
PREPARE THE BIKE:
Saw off the seat post at the top of the tube and bung it up with something plastic. You must do this because otherwise, liquid would flow out when the caustic soda eats through the seatpost).Make sure it is liquid tight.Remove bottom bracket. To avoid blowing out caustic lye under pressure when you pull things apart later, there must be a way for gas to get out -- generally, through the bottom bracket. I'd suggest removing anything else off the bike that is aluminium, and covering up any decals you may want to save. Take the bike outside and set upside down on a patch of dirt away from kids and animals.
PREPARE THE SODIUM HYDROXIDE:
Measure out 200g of sodium hydroxide powder into a plastic cup. Fill a 750ml bottle with 500ml of cool water.
Put on all the safety gear - the mix will get hot, produce fumes, and may splash. Don't let it touch your skin!
Place the bottle of water into an empty plastic bucket - the bottle may overflow so you want to catch that stuff. Slowly pour the 400g of powder into the 750ml bottle - use a thin wooden stick to stir it. It will get hot - make sure there is no powder left in the bottom of the bottle.
POUR IT IN!
Using a funnel and a thin hose pour in a small amount of the liquid mix into the frame of the bike through the bottom bracket . Maybe about 100ml at a time - wait about 5 minutes and it will start bubbling and gas coming out. When it starts to slow down pour another 100ml in Continue this so that the liquid is in the bike tube for about 1 hour. [No fire or flame nearby -- caustic soda releases hydrogen gas when it reacts with aluminum. -- John Allen].
CLEAN UP:
Break the seal on the seatpost hole - warning! lots of liquid will come out. Be covered up and check where it is all going to flow to. Run fresh water through the frame thoroughly to make sure it is all out Clean the area - dilute any that is on the ground with lots and lots of water Throw away any containers and wash tools really really well
I found I had to do this twice. The second time I had to plug the top tube to stop the liquid flowing down there. [You might tilt the frame so liquid will not run down the top tube -- John Allen] Finally all that was left was a thin sliver of seat post. Hope this is good information. Cheers!
Got to love the Sheldon Brown site.
Lots of good suggestions, aluminium seat post so may need some chemical warfare. Have done a lot of Q20 already.
Thinking, Q20 & or coke and vice at a mates place with an old saddle may be the next step here...
What seatpost is it?
It's an aluminium seat post, not sure if this is why the Q20 and wrestle option hasn't worked yet
I can second the Coke option.
On the coke suggestion are you suggesting to pour it in at the top of the frame where the seat post goes in and then go for the wrestle option?
Hi Hubbers
Due to neglect on my behalf I am in the position where I have a seat post jammed in my steel Niner MCR (Reynolds 852 tubing)
The LBS had a go at moving it and gave up. (Not sure how hard they tried) They suggested I lubricate the top of post and ride with the seat clamp loose hoping that my weight eventually dislodges it. While I am not thrilled at the safety aspects of this approach I have tried it on a few district road training rides with no luck. (Do I need to eat more pies?)
Aside from clamping the post in a vice and wrestling the frame does anyone have any other options I can try?
I am looking to replace the post with one with zero lay back so not a major issue if it gets damaged. The frame of course is my bigger concern.
And yes the lesson on lubricating the post has now been learnt!
Thanks,
Mike
Hey Hubbers
Its late in the day but can anyone suggest routes or scenic district roads to ride in the Velddrif & Berg river area?
If you have a GPX that would be great, if not I will prob just head out and explore and hopefully not encounter any grumpy farmers or military bases 
Enjoy the long weekend.
Mike
Hi Hubbers
Headed to Bonnievale area for the long weekend.
Taking the MTB along of course.
Have done some casual googling between meetings at the office today but not finding much about trails or routes in the area.
Montague features but even there I am not finding a lot in the way of GPX files.
Can anyone point me in the right direction so to speak? :-)
Thanks!
Mike
Thanks I will hunt down some nuts and give it a whirl
The Time cleats are sort of flexible and form to the curve in the shoe with no issue. Its just that I am battling to find screws that are short enough!
Hey Hubbers
Anyone got experience with Time RXS cleats and Suplest road carbon shoes?
Got some shiny new shoes from Santa and keen to get out with them but the screws I had in both my Sidi and Spez shoes are too long for the super thin sole on the Suplest.
Went to CWC where the shoes were bought and they ground my screws a bit shorter but now the threads are not working. (and the screws still look a bit long)
Went to Brights and got the shortest screws they have and they are still too long! (Pushing the sole insert up) Tried washers but I can't have the screw head sticking out from the cleat for obvious reasons.
Anyone got any other ideas? And no I will not change to Look, Shimano or any other pedals!
Thanks
Mike
Thanks guys.
I will plan to drag someone up there with me
Hi Hubbers
Just wondering if anyone knows if we can get access to the old road from the bottom these days?
I rode up the "new road" about a month ago and saw that the pedestrian gate was open at the top. Just wondering if there is pedestrian / cyclist entry possible at the bottom? I know ages ago we could squeeze through the gate even when locked but that the gates have both long since been upgraded.
Keen to get some hill repeats done on the quieter road away from the weekend cars and motor bikes in the run up to Die Burger if possible.
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks JB!
Another 2 questions around the same topic, 29nr forks.
Question 1:
I have a steel Niner frame and am looking for a new fork. (And no rigid single speed is not an option for me at this time!) I see a lot of the newer forks are tapered and I have read that you can get an adapter bit for your headset that effectively puts the "fat" bit just below your steerer tube. (Apologies for any jargon mishaps)
Is this worth considering this adapter or should I rather just stick with a finding a decent Rockshox fork with straight steerer fork?
Question 2
Thru axle or QR? I currently run a Maverick SC32 with their propriety thru axle which feels great but due to its age and ongoing reliability issues I am looking to replace it. Either way I will need to build a new wheel so the question is whether in your opinion the thru axle option is the best at this time?
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
Nice going Dubber working hard today I see! 
But has this helped or hindered our decision making process for that Joburg2C entry??
PS loving mine...value for money, light enough, tough enough....Reba for the win indeed
Cool so the Reba is sounding good, but what about the Maxle LITE thru / axle question?
Next question for anyone who is interested, is the "thru-axle" / "Maxle Lite" axle worth the trouble and potential additional cost?
The Maverick has a propriety hub with a thru axle so I will be building a new wheel up too...
Have you tried taking it to Malan at Velolife in Somerset West?
They serviced my DUC32 recently (They used to be Maverick cycles)
Else you can give the fork to me
LOL um if you have the $$$ you can have the fork!
I have had it with Malan's guys for service and for the last seal that popped. It has popped again less than 5 or 6 rides since the last repair!
Hey Hubbers
My current fork an old Maverick SC which is really really plush is or has almost reached its end of life.
2 popped seals on the front brake side and the subsequent loss of braking power and suspension in less than 6 rides is pushing me to shop around for a replacement.
So what should I be looking at? I am not keen on a rigid fork of any kind!
Its looking like Rockshox or Fox at this point. I want something popular that I can get fixed on day 2 of Sani for example. (You guessed it no one would touch the Maverick) Oh and if it can be a good weight and plush, it must be plush!
Budget will most likely top out at R3-4K
Any tips or advice would be appreciated!
Mike
Sounds fair to me, where are you based?
Hey Hubbers
I have one of the older Magic light setups, the one with the black battery in a pouch.
Maybe what is referred to as the 808 model?
Bought it second hand over a year ago and it was working fine up till a few weeks ago.
Symptom I have is that when I connect the charger to the battery the LED on the charger shows green instead of red and no matter how long I leave it connected the head unit button shows red as soon as I connect the battery. It obviously dies shortly after.
Does this mean I have:
1. A battery issue?
2. A charger issue?
In either case where could I get 1 or 2?
Thanks for any help.
Mike
Nice job to everyone involved 
Seatpost jammed in steel MTB frame
in Technical Q&A
Posted
What is your rate for post removals?
I may find the energy to tackle this with a hacksaw blade, broke my collarbone at the end of Feb so have not been doing any "2 handed" work or thinking about sorting this frame out for a while...