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OK, plan B...doing a print out which I'll stick to the bike shop at broadacres... I'll keep details of times and destination light. People can phone for more details. Don't wanna give any would-be hijackers a head up of the schedule...

HIJACKED (the thread that is... ) Looking for someone to do MTB rides in the afternoon from Broadacres. Looking to do 20-30km starting at roughly 15:00/16:00 aftrer work on weekdays. Fitness level is "MEDIUM" Anyone keen? Later

Exactly what I was after... Thanx

Hi all, I'm keen on servicing/rebuilding a couple of Fox shocks over the next week or so. As usual, Google hasn't coughed up something specific to my needs, so I'm attempting to go it alone. At the time of posting this, Johan Bornman seems to be on leave so I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place with regards to help and parts. Can we start with answers or help on the following: 1) Where can I purchse the service kits and spares for Fox forks and rear shocks? 2) Where can I get the user manual for 2008/09 overhauls / services? I have the ones that explain general maintenance, but sometimes more is required. (oil weights, amounts, etc) 3) Does one have to use the Fox specific oil, or are there substitutes? Needless to say, the motivation for doing this is realising that 4-5 services later I could have bought a new shock if I paid for services at LBS's. Quotes for servicing ranged between R380 to R750 depending on who you ask. This is also releative to what gets done, and the old addage about doing it yourself rings true for things where you can't see what has been done or replaced, especially with costs ranging so widely on different quotes. Any help would be appreciated. (I could be nice and post step by step pichers while doing this if the feedback is relevant and accurate) Regards

Ego... Something we all suffer from. Mate of mine on this same forum broke a rib in the Sabie Classic last year on the first stage. Didn't wanna check it out and wanted to do the night stage still. After a check with the medic, which I forced out of him, they realsed his rib is cracked. Stubborn I tell you...

I googled... Didn't find much.

Hi all, Thanx for the input. Managed to get some shiped from Rush cycles in the end. their service is indeed above some of the places I've had to deal with previously. Much appreciated.

Hi all, I'm hoping someone has an idea as to where I can find some Industry 9 specific sopkes. I have an Industry 9 Ultralite 26" wheelset in red, and over the weekend pulled the chain over the cluster and stuffed up at least three of the drive side spokes. I've been to my LBS (Broadacres) and Linden cycles as well as Mike's bikes and nobody could help just yet... In the mean time, I've sent mail to Industry 9 themselves hoping to get some information. Any help would be appreciated in the mean time. Regards

Hi, I have a set of X9 shifters which are pretty hard to click through (going up gears). Where does one adjust this setting, as compared to some other SRAM shifters I've used they seem to be tight or just plain hard to click? Much appreciated

My baby... Kinda swapped bikes with Shimano 105 Had an '08 Scott Spark 30, but the cockpit was too aggressive.

Hey all, I have a set of Magura Marta SL red brakes. From a bail on the weekend I snapped the hose nipple going into the brake lever. I have a spare nipple, but how does one remove the old nipple and crimp the new one back on? would I require specific tools for this?

Both brake sets are very good. The only major difference as mentioned earlier is the parts availability. I for example snapped a hose nipple, and finding parts locally is a bit of an issue. I'm having to source from chain reaction in the UK on the Magura stuff.

Hi, Sorry for the contradicting post, but yes, as someone mentioned, NOS "New old stock". I mentioned bottoming out and lockout cos I get a really hard type of "clang" sound when the shock eventually hits the no go point halfway through the travel. I don't really know what the exact condition is called. Suppose I could be technically challenged. I have since dropped the fork off for service, and should get it back next week. According to many of the forums I've read so far, this seems to be a fairly common issue on the REBA's, and could easily be fixed. I would however like to know what the possible causes for this condition could be? Maybe I stuffed it up unknowingly? Thanx

Uhm, it works as follows: 1) Cajees gets bike from supplier in late 07/08 2) Nobody buys bike cos it's expensive 3) It hangs around the shop for most of 08/09 4) The customer (me) comes in and buys it at reduced cost due to it being an older model in late 09 Hence brand new (never ridden) but 2 years old? Hope that made sense.

Hi all, Recently bought a brand new Scott Spark 30, came with a Rock Shox Reba (white one). The shock itself was fine, did the Magalies 65, and a bit of practice riding on northern farms. Anyways, long story short, last weekend we went for a ride on Northerns, and despite the terrain not being as rough, the shock locked up halfway through it's travel. Why I dont know. It's new, had air in both sides and was working perfectly well. Took it back to Cajees in Hendrik Potgieter, and I was told the seals are gone, and that new ones would be ordered from their supplier. (ETA Two weeks) How would seals possbly be the issue for a complete lockout halfway through the travel? If anyone has some tips for checking or fixing it, I'll gladly listen. Thanx

Lo all, Wanted to know what the real and true differences are between the bunch of lengths in rear derailleurs(other than the lengths). I have read some posts with some rather interesting information and even some mathematical way of figuring out which to use. Keeping in mind that the purpose is not only to shift gears, but also to take up slack in the chain, I can't help but think that there's more to it. Any takers? Thanx

That dog...he smells updog...

LOL - I hacked mine with a plain hacksaw this morning. Made a huge difference in handling and I' quite happy. I would however suggest you take the bars off completely and put them in a vice. I did mine while on the bike, only moved the components over so I have enough room. Came out pretty well for free hand sawing...

Note the lack of posts... No surprise, as it all comes down to personal preference. I for example like doing my race on an empty stomach, use game as energy drink, and pack a banana for every 15km to cover during the race. Resting two days prior to the race is good, and make sure to warm up the morning of the race. Other than that you'll find what works for you with every race you do, and after a while you'll be able to fine tune your routine. One definite tip is to pack all your kit into one bag. The designated MTB goody bag. Make sure to pack all into the same bag after the race. This way you wont be getting to races without your kit, like helmets for example... Good luck and enjoy.

Is there some general rule towards the bar width one should follow? I've been googling and the default seems to be shoulder width. Right now I'm just keen on setting my riding position up similar to that of my HT by placing the bikes next to each other and taking some measurements.

MMM, Maybe I should just lean out my fat 4$$ instead...LOL Thanks for the advice.

Hey all, Need some help help getting the best out of my new soft tail(Scott Spark 30). I realized during the first ride yesterday the following(after riding a Scott Scale HT for 2 years): 1) Steering angle to great(the bars are about 10cm longer than that of my hard tail), thus less accuracy and slower in tight turns. 2) The extra knobbly wide tires from Schwalbe (Nobby Nic) makes for loose cornering on single trek. Should I cut the bars or just get straight narrower bars as supplied on the limited version of the Scott spark for better accuracy and quicker steering? What tires should I replace the Schwalbe's with...? I have a set of Maxxis Cross Rides I haven't used yet, would these be slightly better? Any other streamlining tips will be appreciated. I want more speed out of this bike. It's pretty light already weighing in at 11kg's flat. Thanx

Aaah, schweet. Will go shop today. Seems like a simple solution. Though, would this paste not grind away at the parts over time?

Hi guys, I need some solution with my seat post. It keeps sagging away while riding. Generally this wouldn't be a problem, I could just tighten the quick release more, but this is a carbon frame, and I suppose even carbon would have its limits with regards to tightening of quick releases. According to the spec, the bolt needs to be tightened to 7nm, but even then the seat post still sags away. Are there any ways around this...? The bike in question is a Scott Spark 30. Thanx

Wow, how hijacked can one post get...? We now discussing work items... My ten cents on hardtail vs. squishy... Get both. If you have one or the other already, just plan on getting both anyways. Check the terrain you're riding and pick the bike best suited for this. My reasoning is that you'll lose that nostalgia of your first bike hanging in the garage after selling it, and you'll probably never get the chance to really know the differences if you don't ride both on the same day on the same trail. I managed to be lucky enough to keep my first bike (hardtail), and I've decided that short races I'll stick to the hardtail. It's quick, stiff and light. Also builds more skill riding the hardtail, which should make the move to squishy more rewarding. In the end though, we have budgets, wives and kids to consider, so not all of us would be lucky enough to have two decent MTB bikes hanging off the rails.