mach7-7

Careful, Mountain Biking is the new Golf...

This kind of damage resembles the bike falling off a bike rack while driving your car to/from an event... Atleast that's what it looks like to me as my mates bike looked similiar when his bike rack broke....

Yes, I did precisely this. Carried on moving lock-on grips, (brake lever + trigger combo) inwards slightly until it just felt right and then I shaved the necessary off. Thanks to everyone that contributed for all the great advice.

My new baby. Only ridden once but still trying to dial in bar width and drop.....

Hi all, would really appreciate some feedback. I have just bought a 29er and the handlebar width is 680mm. My old 26er had 620mm wide handlebars and just felt right. I realise that a bigger wheel needs more leverage and with respect to head angle playing an important part etc.. Generally speaking though, what would the absolute minimum length be to be able to steer the bike adequately?. I am tempted to shave 30mm off each side to make it 620mm but have a feeling that I will then need to buy a new bar.. Responses would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all.

Is this your new baby, Mr.Splat??

Chat to Nils from Woodstock Cycleworks. He is a SS fundi

I have a SLX crank and have no creaks or noises.. Does it only creak when you sit on the bike and pedal it (under load)?. I would remove the chain and rotate the crank arms. Should spin silky smooth. If it does then it could be another part of the drive train.. My moneys on your saddle rails creaking under saddle flex while you pedal....

Awesome!. I love the old bikes of yesteryear.. Sorry to hijack thread but just wanted to add my baby that I just recently built up. A 1993 Ball burnished 6061 GT Zaskar that rides just as well as the day she was made... if not faster Haven't set the bike with my measurements but simply had to take a quick pic.

Sent you a PM.

I think you should go for an Ergo Fit Bike setup at Sport Science with Dr. Jeroen Swart. After taking your measurements he will inform you of your correct Effective Top Tube length. Remember that some manufacturers state top tube length while others state effective toptube length. If you are unsure of the two then I suggest you google it. I realise that this setup cannot always be done before purchasing a bicycle and I know it is not cheap but it will help you two fold: 1. You will find out what size of frame you should be riding. 2. You will be setup correctly with the correct saddle height, setback and handlebar drop thus correcting your neck pain and reducing the chances of further injuries that you may sustain as you start riding longer distances. There really is no substitute for comfort and your efficiency will increase straight away. Check out : http://www.sciencetosport.com/ or speak to hubber "renayg" as he also conducts the Ergo-Fit setup. I am not affiliated to this organisation and am not a salesman but merely a passionate cyclist that had plenty pain which has now be resolved after one of these setup's. Cycling is so much more enjoyable without the pain. Its definitely the best money that I have spent on myself let alone my bike

Cold water hand wash with OMO hand washing powder and NEVER use softner!! The softner will destroy the chamois in no time!! NEVER tumble dry, just leave to air-dry and preferably in the shade and avoid direct sun light if you don't want your expensive kit fading... PS: Reminds me of the old tv advert with Morne Du Plessis: " I gotta do the washing"... LOL!

That the milfs walking / running on Boyes Drive always try and stop me just to say "Hi"... breaking my rhythm on the climbs

Hairy, Just checked your profile and I see you and I are from the same era... Remember the coolest mountain bikes back in the early 90's such as Klein, Cannondale CAD3 with headshock, GT Zaskar, Produx... Now those were the days hey!

Hey Mr.Hairy, This bike has been set to my measurements taken by Jeroen Swart. Its a 1993 GT Zaskar Le which originally had a Tioga "flip flop" stem that was compatible with an old A-headset.. The trend then was to run a stem with a length of atleast 110mm for that aggressive XC riding position. So my saddle setback is calculated along with my reach and this setup is where I should be, making my weight distribution perfect. I could probably benefit from a straight saddle post as your keen eye spotted the clamp almost running out of saddle rail but I am struggling to find the correct diameter (27.6mm, I believe). Even though this frame is stamped 16", the seatpost is infact 18" as the calculated 16" runs vertically from BB to bisection of cross tube. The newer Zaskars (post 1997) were measured conventionally along the seat tube and hence were properly sized as an 18". Just some trivia... These are old Azonic rims and yes, they are V-brake compatible. I paired them with Avid SL titanium brake modules and she feels as though she has ABS now (Koolstop pads work a treat). This frame is not Hydraulic friendly as it is the first Zaskar and hence has no caliper mounts. A back to basics hand made in the USA bike, that is simple to maintain, fun to ride and provides me with some nostalgia from my youth. In std8 this was my dream bike that I could never afford and now I finally have one and I am really enjoying her Thanks for all the feedback guys. Modern mass produced bikes will come and go, but the older hand fabricated bikes are what helped cycling get to where it is today.