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deanmor

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  1. Hello, Looking for a slick/thin grease for use in the pawls/freebody assembly. I have a thick lithium based grease, but I find that it is too thick and tends to hold the pawls back from the ratchet. I've seen Rock 'n Roll grease, but I am battling to source it locally. Any ideas as to a similar locally available grease? Regards Dean
  2. I'm 105kg and I ride an Ibis Mojo (std, not SLR). I ride it hard and although I'm careful on my landings, I'm very confident to cross up over jumps. It also depends on what type of riding you're going to do. But with today's technology and understanding of carbon fibre, I don't think you have too much to be concerned about. I used to fly RC helis, and I'd imagine the stresses that I put on the frames and blades (both were cf) far exceeded what I can do relatively to an mtb frame. I was also sceptical of cf frames, but having seen what the material is capable of in other fields, I'm not concerned. Just investigate the manufacturer's warranty before buying. Dean
  3. Hi Kozin, Try fitting enduro fork seals: http://www.enduroforkseals.com/ I had a Maverick DUC and the std seals leaked constantly. Once replaced with Enduro fork seals all leaking disappeared. With enduro's, you'll have no leaking and/or sweating problems. Are you not over filling the stanchions? Regards Dean
  4. PM me. We are going to start doing night rides from Oscar's in Hillcrest, downinto Giba, then out again. About 20km night ride. Great Fun!
  5. If you send your bike for servicing, this will save you money in that bearing replacement will not be as frequent. If you do your own servicing (as I do), it is the time saving. Plus knowing that when your bearings are immersed in water/mud, the moisture is not going to lead to their imminent demise. What's also nice about the device, is that when new grease is forced in, the old grease, including moisture and debris is mostly forced out.
  6. Sealed bearings are not pressure seals, they are interference-fit shields.. When you push the grease in, it is forced out the other side of the bearing, past the seal. If the seal does pop off, you can just pop it back in. I've done both plastic- and metal sealed bearings, and it works equally well on both.
  7. Nope. The bearing has to be removed from any housing before using the Greaser.
  8. No. The grease is forced UP from the bottom, so you see the old grease come out of the bearing.
  9. It essentially forces the grease in through one side, and out the other. I see you're in Durban. Me too. PM me and I can possibly show you how it works. Regards Dean
  10. Couldn't find a YouTube vid. Did find these though: http://peteshobbies.com/prcp/Greaser/PRCPbuy_greaser.htm and this http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=78836 and this http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/rrTV-Photo/ToolsandFieldEquipment/Lube/
  11. Hi all, One of the things I don't do regularly is clean my bike. Not because I'm lazy, but because I know that water, dirt and bearings don't do well together. Too much cleaning destroys your bearings, particularly so when you use a de-greaser. Instead I do a complete strip down, clean and rebuild every 6 months or so. Most of my riding is in the dry winter months, so the majority of dirt on my bike is dust. I flew RC Helicopters for a few years, and the bearings in these take an absolute hammering, especially when doing hardcore aerobatics. Hence this amazing little device: http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=169165 . What it does is force grease into a bearing via the seal (you don't need to remove the seal at all). I've done my pedal, pivot, freebody and wheel bearings with this device. Takes about 30seconds to completely grease a bearing, and when you do it for the first time, it is amazing the amount of dirt that is forced out of the bearing. Here's the link again: http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=169165 Regards Dean
  12. Hi there, If you're talking about the Bicycling magazine prize-winning letters, where you can win a pair of Rudy Project photochromic lensed glasses, then vasbyt. I wrote a winning letter about 15 months ago, and the letter was published before I received the glasses. They arrived about 2-3 weeks after I saw the letter in the magazine. Regards Dean
  13. Hi all, I think the point I'm trying to make here is one of value. For my wife and I to ride the 60km at Karkloof, all in, we're looking at R600 - R700 for the morning. Now, I can go there on any other day and pay a R20-R30 indemnity fee, and ride all I want. In essence, they are wanting to now charge me R200+ for what amounts to 3 to 4 water stops. Based on the last two events (Marathon at Inanda and the Holla Trails 50km), the water tables are costing me abt R100 per water stop. That is what I'm effectively getting for my money. Now, I'm not advocating that we only pay for what we consume. I'm willing to pay a fair amount for the organisation, etc. I don't want the ride for nothing. In my opinion, about R100- R120 is fair for the ride. Any more than that is, in my opinion excessive. Everyone has their own value peg, and I'm fairly sure that the charges now being levied for these rides are beyond most people's value peg, as evidenced by the results of this poll. (And to belay any ad-hominem attacks, it is not about what I earn, or can afford; I can afford the prices). The 60km ride at Karkloof is limited to 800 riders. Assuming the ride is fully subscribed beforehand, that amounts to a whopping R136 000 (800 x R170). And that is JUST for the 60km event. So what is the purposes of the sponsors being there? I'm not against profit making; what I am against is a for-profit company gouging consumers; this is why I have asked CSA for an explanation as to why I'm now paying a R110 fee (including the a R35 fee to be a member of some obscure KZN organisation). I would like a full explanation of why the fees are so exhorbitant, particularly as this year I now have to do some bureaucratic running around to satisfy their requirements! I'd wager that within a short period of time a critical mass of people will be taking action by not attending races. Even worse, they'll pitch up and ride without paying. Either way, the net revenues will be lower, leading to the organisers raising prices, making it even more unaffordable. And that will lead to organisers attempting to remove these riders from the course, resulting in a legal wrangle (the organisers are not the land owners, and thus they have no authority to remove people from private land. Even less so on public land). Hypothetically, come Sunday, if I'm out riding at Karkloof and there happens to be a race organised, what right do they have to deny me access to the land, particularly if I've paid my R20 indemnity? CSA and race organisers listen up: I want clarity on your charges, and a reason as to why I should pay your fees (whether they are exhorbitant or not depends on what I get for my money). Dean
  14. Comms sent to CSA: Hi all, I have some questions regarding this expenditure: 1. What is the additional R35 for? 2. What do I get for my R110? 3. Why is this process so difficult? You charge me R110 for ostensibly nothing, then proceed to burden me with bureaucratically irrelevant tasks, as detailed below. Please note that your responses will be posted on a public forum website (https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/102091-cost-of-events/page__st__20__p__1381213__hl__costs__fromsearch__1#entry1381213). Regards Dean Morris From: no-reply@cyclingsa.com [mailto:no-reply@cyclingsa.com] Sent: 07 April 2011 02:23 PM To: Dean Morris Subject: CSA License / Membership Purchased Dear Dean Morris Congratulations on your purchase. You have successfully paid for the following item(s): (Bank Reference:CSA15247142300) Item: CSA Membership, Year: 2011, Price: R 75,00 Item: Provincial Affiliate Fee - KwaZulu-Natal Cycling Union, Year: 2011, Price: R 35,00 You can view your CSA membership/license approval status by navigating to the Member Home page. Please note the following process that needs to happen before final confirmation of your membership. • Your Club needs to approve your membership to that club. – please contact them to process this application; and • Your provincial affiliate will be required to approve your good standing after your club has approved your club membership. NOTE: there may be fees payable to your provincial affiliate – please can you enquire directly with them about this. If you have any queries regarding MEMBERSHIP OF CSA ONLY, please contact: membership@cyclingsa.com; or phone: 0860 022 761 Thank you for your application
  15. Hey P, We stayed there for 2 days over the Christmas period, and I highly recommend it. We stayed in the log cabins (which were superb). I can't comment on the camping facilities, but if they were anything like the cabins, they'll be great! The riding is also very good; I did the 35km route, and the single track and technical aspects are superb (especially slippery when it rains!). Well marked too! The trails office has a nicely produced map, and in general a very well-run, professional park. While you're there take a trip to Sudwala caves. I don't think you'll regret it. Dean Dean
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