Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'SLX'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • General
    • The Bike Room
    • Sponsored
  • New to Cycling
    • Ask Anything
    • What Bike to Buy
  • Gear & Bikes
    • Technical Q&A
    • New Gear
    • Buyer’s Advice
    • Post Your Bike & Projects
    • Bike Shops & Services
    • Retro / Vintage Bikes
  • Events & Training
    • Events
    • Pro Cycling
    • Training, Health & Nutrition
  • Riding
    • Group Rides
    • Routes & Trails
    • Share Your Ride & Travels
  • Discipline-Specific
    • Gravity
    • Fixie & Singlespeed
    • Commuter
    • Multisport
  • Safety & Awareness
    • Stolen Bikes
    • Cycling Safety
    • Fraud Alert
    • Lost & Found
    • Good Causes
  • Help Desk
    • Site Announcements
    • Help & Support
  • Off Topic
    • Chit chat

Categories

  • Adventure and Travel
  • Tips and Advice
  • Event and Industry News
  • Tech
  • Promotions
    • Custom Content Partnership

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Website URL


Location


Full Name

Found 17 results

  1. I finally upgraded my old 3x gearing last year to SLX 1x12 and a Sunrace casette. A couple of friends have gone this route and are extremely happy with it. I'm however not impressed. Gear changes aren't smooth and very clunky, and recently it developed another issue, which I haven't seen on the hub yet. When gearing down the bottom jockey wheel (if that's what you call it) doesn't move back to keep the chain tight, so the chain starts to hang. If I push it forward and let go it snaps back to hold the chain tight, but I have to do this every time I've gone up a few gears and then down again. I took it back to my LBS, at very short notice and not a lot of time for them to work on it. So kudos to them for still helping me out. He said they cleaned it out and correctly torqued something. Upon collection I went for a short ride, gearing felt a little better and derailleur seemed fine. Very next day I take my bike out and chain is sagging again, even worse than before. I'm a 3 hour drive away from my LBS so can't quickly take it back and leave it there to have them sort it out. Has anyone experienced this before and have some advice on what I can do to solve this?
  2. Hi Guys, I'm a newbie looking for advice on picking between two cassettes: SHIMANO SLX 10 SPD CASSETTE (HG81) SHIMANO XT 10 SPD CASSETTE (M771) I don't care about weight, I'd just choose the more durable of the two. I plan on using it with this chain: SHIMANO XT 10 SPD CHAIN (HG95) Any help would be very appreciated.
  3. The topic title pretty much says it all... I have two sets of XT M8000 brakes and, naturally, I'm a little confused (and concerned/irritated) by all the comments regarding modulation and other issues. And equally so by all the praise showered on the M7000 set, since I spent more on mine. I haven't had any issues since fitting either set around 6 months ago. And whenever I speak to guys at Revolution cycles and This Way Out, everyone prefers the M8000 over the M7000 and doesn't know of any issues either. On the Hub, however, there are a lot of people who talk about the M8000 set as if it were a bad flu going around that they're pretty chuffed to have dodged. So what gives? Surely any real issues would have been corrected relatively quickly?
  4. Can I use a 38-24 combination on a SLX FC M7000 11x2 Crank? Standard combinations 34-24 36-26 38-28 I have 11-42 cassette
  5. Hi Hubbers Don't miss out on our Monday Madness deals today! 1. Selle Italia Lady Gel X2 Flow saddle - Was R695 now only R395!! https://www.evobikes.co.za/selle-italia-x2-lady-trans-am-black.html
  6. Hi guys, Sorry for posting another topic on this issue but I'm still stuck. I'm looking for a press fit BB for my 26" Rocky Mountain. My frame's BB shell width is 83mm. I'm wanting to get the M7000 SLX crankset. But before I pull the trigger, I'd like to know whether there is a BB that will work for this upgrade. Ideally I'd like to purchase it off a local site, such as CWC or Evobikes etc. Thanks again for any assistance and apologies for posting a second topic. Cheers
  7. I'm looking to get a new crankset (either Lyne or SLX M7000). Looking at these photos, do you know which BB I would need? If I need to measure anything for clarity then I can do that. Someone at my LBS mentioned it would be a press fit BB. So I just want to make sure I know which one and whether it will work with either of the crankset I'm considering. My frame is a 26" Rocky Mountain Element 30 MSL. (2011) Thanks for your help!
  8. I've got a 1x10 setup with 32T upfront, XT rear derailleur, XT shifter, and a Praxis wide range cassette (11-40). I'm thinking of upgrading my current Shimano Deore crankset to the new SLX M7000 11 speed crankset with 32T. Basically, I can't afford a complete 11 speed upgrade right now so I'm just considering the crankset for the time being. My current one has seen better days. Is this possible? Cheers
  9. Hi Hubbers Don't miss out on our Monday Madness deals today!! 1. KASK PROTONE HELMET (WHITE) - R3995!! https://www.evobikes.co.za/kask-protone-helmet-white-red.html
  10. Hey guys, sorry for yet another forum... I'm just a bit confused about the mount options for the M7000 brakeset. The CWC website states that they come with I-spec B and I-spec II options (here). But other sites (here, for example) clearly state: Only mountable to I-Spec II! Not compatible to I-Spec A or I-Spec B! Bottom line is I want to integrate my right brake with my I-spec B shifter. Do you know what integration options are provided stock standard? Cheers
  11. Hey guys, I have a very simple question I need to check before making a purchase. I have an I-spec (A) SLX rear shifter and i'm buying an M7000 SLX brake set (with I-spec II or I-spec B options). I realize these two aren't compatible without making modifications. But besides taking up more handlebar space, is it still fine to clamp both separately? It's a 1x10. I just want to make sure it would still be close enough to operate brake and gear shifts seamlessly. I don't have a clamp for the shifter yet but are they easy to find and relatively inexpensive? If there are any better solutions then please let me know. Thanks!
  12. Ding ding, and in the left corner, weighing in at 10.9kgs... 1) KTM Race (2012) RockShox RebaXT SLX componentsTwo owners In the right corner, weighing in at around 11.4 kgs... 2) Merida Matts LITE 1000 (2011) RockShox Recon GoldXT SLX componentsOne owner Apologies for the pdf for option 2. Both in good condition. I find the KTM aesthetically pleasing. But more interested in rating each on actual quality etc. All thoughts and mockery welcome!
  13. Hi everyone, I need some advice on comparing the following two bikes: 1) Merida One-Twenty 900 D (2012) Fork Manitou Minute TS 120Rear shock X-Fusion O2RLWheels Alex Rim TD17Front derailleur Shimano XTRear derailleur Shimano XTShifters Shimano SLXBrakes Shimano BR-M505Crankset Shimano SLXTyres Kenda Slant Six 2) BMC Speedfox SF02 (2011) Fork Fox F-Series 120mmRear shock Fox Float RP2Wheels DT SwissFront derailleur Shimano XTRear derailleur Shimano XTShifters Shimano SLXBrakes Avid ElixirCrankset Shimano SLXTyres Onza Canis (x1) Not sure about the other Both are in good condition but Merida the mintest of the two. All opinions welcome and appreciated
  14. So I'm buying some new pads for my SLX M-675 brakes and there are a crazy amount of compatible options out there. Is there anyone who can decipher Shimano's brake pads coding? I am assuming it works as follows, correct me if I'm wrong: -The first letter obviously refers to type ie. G...=standard non-finned, F...=finned & J...=revised fin angle design? Are there any other types that would work with the M-675? -The middle numbers refer to pad compound ie. ...01...=resin, ...02...=revised resin, ...03...=metal & ...04...=revised metalic? Does anyone have insight as to what changes were made to the newer revised resin 02 compared to the original 01? I'm not so interested in the differences between resin and metal, as there is a ton of info out there. -The last letter refers to backing plate material ie. ...A=aluminium, ...S=steel, ...Ti=titanium & ...C=combination stainless steel base plate with aluminium fins? These obviously effect heat conductivity. So aluminium will allow heat to pass through realitively quickly thus a greater risk of boiling the brake fluid? Stainless steel and titanium will not allow heat to pass through very easily, thus heating up the rotor and a greater risk or brake fade?
  15. Hey guys, Just looking for some advice. I have a Cannonade F29 running Magura Mt2 brakes. Experiencing bad vibration and shudder when pulling the rear brake on descents. Vibration is enough that I feel it through the frame and up through the saddle. I've had them serviced, re-bled and had the disc checked. Have sanded down and cleaned up the brake pads and used alcohol to clean the disc. These solutions work for the first couple of minutes on a ride, then its back to the shudder. I have reduced power and hence not much confidence in coming to a stop. Is there anything else I should try, otherwise thinking of replacing them with some SLX's or something similar. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks!
  16. Hi there I'm looking at new brakes as the ones that came on my bike just aren't cutting it (Shimano m505) everything else on my bike is SLX so my first instinct is the SLX and they are higher up in the Shimano line so therefore should be 'better'. I want to know from experience what everyone's experience has been and any advice on which ones to go with as I'm looking at the SLX m675 vs the Deore m615. I see online there's about a R700 difference. I ride cross country mostly doing ROAG events around 40km but I want to work towards doing longer races and even a stage raceor two. I'm 178cm and 59kg and currently have 180mm up front and 160mm in the back, I would like to keep it that way but will get new rotors. Also is ICE TECH really worth it especially with me being so light I'm not heavy on the brakes. I looked and can get SLX set with ICE TECH rotors from CRC for about R2 200 and my girlfriend will be in England at the end of the year anyway so is that a good option? (I like supporting local but that is an awesome deal). And with everything being Shimano on my bike I want to keep it that way also for the sake of ease with I-Spec, I like the cleaner look. HELP!!!
  17. Howdy guys. It seems I will need an 18, 22 and 23 mm cone spanners to service an SLX Shimano through axle hub. Am I right? Fanks
My Profile My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Settings Help Logout