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Internal or external Headset, which one?


M Hickley

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I'm a expecting a new frame soon and will be using most of my current bike's components. I'm going to sell my old frame with the headset. How do I know which headset to order for the new frame?

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look at the manufacturers specifications lol, though when you buy a new frame it generally comes with a headset.

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I'm a expecting a new frame soon and will be using most of my current bike's components. I'm going to sell my old frame with the headset. How do I know which headset to order for the new frame?

 

Some frames aren't sold with a headset and headsets are mostly frame-specific, so don't regret selling your frame with its present headset.

 

External headsets are on their way out and mostly found on older frames with 1 1/8th steerers and simple straight head tubes. Here only the internal dimension of the frame is important - mostly 44mm.

 

Modern frames with hydroformed and carbon head tubes, are shaped like hour glasses and can accept internal or integrated headsets. The primary difference between internal and extarnal is the location of the bearings - inside or outside the head tube. All integrated headsets are internal but the difference is that an integrated headset doesn't have a loose cup in which the bearings rest, they rest directly on the frame. Not cool.

Integrated headsets are simple - top cap, top cover, bearing, nother bearing, seal and crown race.

 

Internal headsets have to cups added to the mix. The cups have a critical dimension that has to match the head tube's internal dimension.

 

Best to wait until you have the frame, take some measurements and buy a headset. Headsets don't have to be expensive. A Giant headset will set you back just over R200 and is superb. They use standard 36/45 degree bearings which cost R50 a pop.

 

Don't bother with headsets using non-standard bearings such as the 45/45 ones found on Campag, Ritchey and the like.

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Thanks Johan. The web-site says that the "Frame Utilizes a 11/8" Threadless Head Set" I copy and pasted that because I'm sure they meant to say 1 1/8". What heaset do you recommend?

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Thanks Johan. The web-site says that the "Frame Utilizes a 11/8" Threadless Head Set" I copy and pasted that because I'm sure they meant to say 1 1/8". What heaset do you recommend?

 

That spec is still not good enough. All it tells you is that he fork steerer is 1 1/8th. All modern forks are threadless. You also need frame dimensions.

 

 

Cane Creek is good but expensive. Giant, BBB, PRO etc are all good value for money. I don't believe the quality of the headset itself is important. Most are way above acceptable. The most important thing is that you get a standard bearing, not a proprietary one.

 

Someone mentioned Chris King.

 

Chris King headsets used to be stupid. American pride made the company refuse to pay license fees to Aheadset (Cane Creek today) for the invention that revolutionised the headset, stem and steerer. They then went ahead and designed their own version of it but not having access to important aspects of the patent, they botched it and Chris King headsets used to work loose on the steerer and damage it. I believe they now that the patent expired, have suddenly adopted the compression ring from Aheadset.

 

Companies like that should not be rewarded for their pride. The license fee was minimal and the entire industry played ball except CK (and perhaps some others I don't know of). Cpnsidering how big a contribution to cycling the invention was, they should have been richly rewarded, not boycotted.

 

Sis CK, it was a very poor show.

 

Headset bearings are consumables. The fact that the front wheel shoots water directly into the bottom bearing is to blame. Your headset will last a very long time if you fit a short stubby mudguard or one of those lizardskin contraptions. However, no-one does this so it is uncool so no-one does it.

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