Race Face Evolve Crank Loose

[paarlmtb]

Has anyone come across a fix for this problem.

 

No matter how tight you make the crank or crank retaining bolt, the retainer still loosens.

 

Think it is wear on the splines that causes it!

[droo]

Think it is wear on the splines that causes it!

 

You would be right. I have one in my scrap pile that did the same.

[owti1997]

Has anyone come across a fix for this problem.

 

No matter how tight you make the crank or crank retaining bolt, the retainer still loosens.

 

Think it is wear on the splines that causes it!

I have no experience with Race Face cranks, but have had similar problems in past with Shimano XT and XTR - resolved in both cases by taking out BB spacer/s on right and/or left to allow more grip space on the shaft splines

[paarlmtb]

I have no experience with Race Face cranks, but have had similar problems in past with Shimano XT and XTR - resolved in both cases by taking out BB spacer/s on right and/or left to allow more grip space on the shaft splines

 

System is a bit different, and think the problem is caused initially by that, but doesn't seem to help now

 

Might just superglue it on, then grind it off once the bb or chainring goes, but would prefer a fix

 

Thanks anyway

[droo]

System is a bit different, and think the problem is caused initially by that, but doesn't seem to help now

 

Yep. The Shimano system uses a spline with pinch bolts, which IMO is a better system. The Raceface uses a spline with a self-extracting bolt system. The spline bottoms out on the crank at the correct spacing, so adding spacers will just cause side loading on the bearings which will greatly reduce bearing life (think in terms of 2 or 3 rides).

 

 

Might just superglue it on, then grind it off once the bb or chainring goes, but would prefer a fix

 

Superglue will do less than nothing to help you. Pratley Steel may help, but then when the bearings on the BB fail you'll either have to hack the crank apart to get it off or throw the frame away. Much cheaper and easier just to get a new crankset, it will cost less in the long run. In money and tears.

[paarlmtb]

Yep. The Shimano system uses a spline with pinch bolts, which IMO is a better system. The Raceface uses a spline with a self-extracting bolt system. The spline bottoms out on the crank at the correct spacing, so adding spacers will just cause side loading on the bearings which will greatly reduce bearing life (think in terms of 2 or 3 rides).

 

 

 

 

Superglue will do less than nothing to help you. Pratley Steel may help, but then when the bearings on the BB fail you'll either have to hack the crank apart to get it off or throw the frame away. Much cheaper and easier just to get a new crankset, it will cost less in the long run. In money and tears.

 

Thanks for the reply - Seeing as the crank is toast anyway may as well get some use out of the chainring - surely won't be a problem to angle grind it off?

 

Tip on pratley steel noted and agree on the XT crank

[droo]

If you replace your chain at the correct intervals your rings should last (close to) forever anyway. Throw the crank away and keep the rings as spares. Or keep the right crank and rings together and use them on your next home invader.

[Skylark]

Has anyone come across a fix for this problem.

 

No matter how tight you make the crank or crank retaining bolt, the retainer still loosens.

 

Think it is wear on the splines that causes it!

 

Had this exact same crank and same problem , hopefully my experience can help , I posted this in a mtbr.com review as well , another guy validated that my prognosis works!

 

You can see the review here :

http://www.mtbr.com/cat/drivetrain/crankset/race-face/evolve-xc/prd_364175_115crx.aspx

 

The drive side crank arm comes loose - It is not due to the washer as another guy mentioned , it is not due to an under tight/under-torqued crank bolt .

 

After much fiddling , I found the problem : Either the casting on the crank arm splines is too narrow or the spindle splines are too long . Either way the crank bolt bottoms out onto the end of the spindle and the crank arm therefore has very no pressure applied on to it from the crank bolt . The crank bolt should be bottoming out onto the crank arm , forcing it all the way onto the ends of the splines of the spindle where it will seat and lock tightly.

 

The solution was to carefully freehand grind a millimeter or 2 off the end of the spindle splines using an angle grinder . Be very careful and use safety gear!!

Now when I tighten the crank bolt till it bottoms onto the crank arm , all the pressure is doing what it should be doing - forcing the crank arm splines up the spindle splines until they seat 100% and have constant pressure applied. You may need to remove one washer off the spindle behind the crank arm to compensate for the crank arm now seating properly and fractionally further up the splines.

 

To check your crank : tighten the crank bolt , remove the crank arm bolt cap and then remove the crank bolt without pulling off the crank arm - there should be a tiny gap between the end of the spindle and the crank arm splines. If there is no gap and they are flush then the spindle is too long and needs to be ground shorter. Grinding it in a lathe would be the ideal option but my careful freehand grinding with an angle grinder worked perfectly.

 

My drive side crank arm had a huge amount of play , was ready to get thrown away - its now tight and 100% rigid

 

Good luck!!

Edited August 22, 2012 by Skylark

[droo]

Had this exact same crank and same problem , hopefully my experience can help , I posted this in a mtbr.com review as well , another guy validate that my diagnosis works ......

 

The drive side crank arm comes loose - It is not due to the washer as another guy mentioned , it is not due to an under tight/under-torqued crank bolt .

 

After much fiddling , I found the problem : Either the casting on the crank arm splines is too narrow or the spindle splines are too long . Either way the crank bolt bottoms out onto the end of the spindle and the crank arm therefore has very no pressure applied on to it from the crank bolt . The crank bolt should be bottoming out onto the crank arm , forcing it all the way onto the ends of the splines of the spindle where it will seat and lock tightly.

 

The solution was to carefully freehand grind a millimeter or 2 off the end of the spindle splines using an angle grinder . Be very careful and use safety gear!!

Now when I tighten the crank bolt till it bottoms onto the crank arm , all the pressure is doing what it should be doing - forcing the crank arm splines up the spindle splines until they seat 100% and have constant pressure applied. You may need to remove one washer off the spindle behind the crank arm to compensate for the crank arm now seating properly and fractionally further up the splines.

 

To check your crank : tighten the crank bolt , remove the crank arm bolt cap and then remove the crank bolt without pulling off the crank arm - there should be a tiny gap between the end of the spindle and the crank arm splines. If there is no gap and they are flush then the spindle is too long and needs to be ground shorter. Grinding it in a lathe would be the ideal option but my careful freehand grinding with an angle grinder worked perfectly.

 

My drive side crank arm had a huge amount of play , was ready to get thrown away - its now tight and 100% rigid

 

Good luck!!

 

Interesting... sounds like I've got a mission for this weekend, although I'm battling to work out how to grip the axle in my lathe considering there's a crank stuck to the end of it...

 

Thanks for the heads up

[paarlmtb]

Had this exact same crank and same problem , hopefully my experience can help , I posted this in a mtbr.com review as well , another guy validated that my prognosis works!

 

You can see the review here :

http://www.mtbr.com/...175_115crx.aspx

 

The drive side crank arm comes loose - It is not due to the washer as another guy mentioned , it is not due to an under tight/under-torqued crank bolt .

 

After much fiddling , I found the problem : Either the casting on the crank arm splines is too narrow or the spindle splines are too long . Either way the crank bolt bottoms out onto the end of the spindle and the crank arm therefore has very no pressure applied on to it from the crank bolt . The crank bolt should be bottoming out onto the crank arm , forcing it all the way onto the ends of the splines of the spindle where it will seat and lock tightly.

 

The solution was to carefully freehand grind a millimeter or 2 off the end of the spindle splines using an angle grinder . Be very careful and use safety gear!!

Now when I tighten the crank bolt till it bottoms onto the crank arm , all the pressure is doing what it should be doing - forcing the crank arm splines up the spindle splines until they seat 100% and have constant pressure applied. You may need to remove one washer off the spindle behind the crank arm to compensate for the crank arm now seating properly and fractionally further up the splines.

 

To check your crank : tighten the crank bolt , remove the crank arm bolt cap and then remove the crank bolt without pulling off the crank arm - there should be a tiny gap between the end of the spindle and the crank arm splines. If there is no gap and they are flush then the spindle is too long and needs to be ground shorter. Grinding it in a lathe would be the ideal option but my careful freehand grinding with an angle grinder worked perfectly.

 

My drive side crank arm had a huge amount of play , was ready to get thrown away - its now tight and 100% rigid

 

Good luck!!

 

Hey Skylark

 

Thanks for the detailed reply - happened to find your MTBR posting last night, and duly applied the grinder - Think may have taken too little off, but using on my singlespeed conversion will give it a good test.

 

For interest do you still have the 1mm spacer that fits in the recess of the drive side arm, mine is missing - or perhaps another fix.

 

Judging by the number of similar problems, your fix could easily be pinned here.

 

Thanks again

[Skylark]

 

Hey Skylark

 

Thanks for the detailed reply - happened to find your MTBR posting last night, and duly applied the grinder - Think may have taken too little off, but using on my singlespeed conversion will give it a good test.

 

For interest do you still have the 1mm spacer that fits in the recess of the drive side arm, mine is missing - or perhaps another fix.

 

Judging by the number of similar problems, your fix could easily be pinned here.

 

Thanks again

 

Taking off a little too much , ie an extra mm or 2 , shouldn't be a problem.

 

You mean that spliny spacer?

I can't remember exactly what goes where but I don't think it needs to have splines , it was a spacer only I think , so you could use a similar thickness washer.

You may also have a spare spacer anyway after removing one to compensate for the reduction in the spline length.

 

But its hard to remember because I dont have the crank anymore. Maybe explain to me exactly where the spacer goes then I can rack my memory as to what it does

[paarlmtb]

Taking off a little too much , ie an extra mm or 2 , shouldn't be a problem.

 

You mean that spliny spacer?

I can't remember exactly what goes where but I don't think it needs to have splines , it was a spacer only I think , so you could use a similar thickness washer.

You may also have a spare spacer anyway after removing one to compensate for the reduction in the spline length.

 

But its hard to remember because I dont have the crank anymore. Maybe explain to me exactly where the spacer goes then I can rack my memory as to what it does

 

No worries - just going to use the rubber seal off an old BB bearing

 

Need to take more off the shaft, then check again, last chance saloon - at least I am having fun!!!!!!

[nolipoli]

I did the same fix on an evolve crank a while back and it worked perfectly. I just used a hand file and carefully removed about 2mm.

[nolipoli]

(removed double post)

Edited August 25, 2012 by nolipoli