Pivot Bearing Specialized FSR 29 er Camber 2010

[Dudes]

Does anyone know how to remove the lower pivot bearings (the ones just above the BB) out of the frame. Mine is creaking badly and when I undo and remove the shaft (goes through the frame from the one side to the front derailer system on the other side, then I cannot seem to remove the bearings on either side held in the frame.

 

Normally one can tap out a bearing from the rear as there is usually a small lip between the inner spacer and the bearing but with these the lip is too small to get purchase from a screw driver. A puller will also not get purchase on the small lip!

 

So I am thinking, maybe there is no cup in the frame and both bearings along with the spacer can be removed by tapping them right through from one side but I do not want to force the issue in case there are cups holding the bearings!!

 

Please help. Thanks

[V12man]

Blind hole bearing puller

 

You can buy one from rushsports or your local mechanics toolshop - google "JTC 1843"

 

Easy as anything with the right tool - but if you can get to the back of the bearing from the other side, you can tap them out with a punch - be careful not to knock the frame - this may well do some damage to the bearings, and you should replace them if you use that method - the blind hole pullers will let you clean and regrease the bearing and re-install, if it is not already damaged.

[Dudes]

Blind hole bearing puller

 

You can buy one from rushsports or your local mechanics toolshop - google "JTC 1843"

 

Easy as anything with the right tool - but if you can get to the back of the bearing from the other side, you can tap them out with a punch - be careful not to knock the frame - this may well do some damage to the bearings, and you should replace them if you use that method - the blind hole pullers will let you clean and regrease the bearing and re-install, if it is not already damaged.

 

Thanks. I will go and purchase one. The reason is that from the back there is no lip to punch onto as the sleeve separating the two bearings is flush - so I have tried from the back!! Cheers

[V12man]

Thanks. I will go and purchase one. The reason is that from the back there is no lip to punch onto as the sleeve separating the two bearings is flush - so I have tried from the back!! Cheers

 

Just explain that a bit more please - if you can't get a punch in there, a blind hole puller might not be the right tool either - and an expensive purchase - you might need a collett puller for that.

 

You could do something like this - simple enough.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b1cORQnVxgI

Edited June 5, 2013 by V12man

[_im_from_earth]

Got this video in a few of the "bearings threads" at the moment, shows how the blind hole puller works:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGk-RD5cuSc&list=PL9DC2A0EF4BCCEF29

[Dudes]

Just explain that a bit more please - if you can't get a punch in there, a blind hole puller might not be the right tool either - and an expensive purchase - you might need a collett puller for that.

 

You could do something like this - simple enough.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b1cORQnVxgI

 

Yes a punch goes in the back but the lip is too small for the punch to get a grip on. So when you hit the punch it just slides through and out!!

 

HOWEVER I solved my problem inexpensively. You buy a rawl bolt from the hardware store for a few bucks. Tighten that into the bearing and then tap the bearing out from the back by tapping on the stuck rawl bolt. When the one is out then you do not need the rawl bolt to get the other side out as now the punch can reach the other side bearing (from the back). Quick and easy.

 

Then I got to the swing arm bearings and had the same problem. They also cannot be punched out from the back because there is no lip to work with. The ID of those bearings are smaller than the other pivot bearings (10 mm) and my rawl bolt is 12 mm. Also, it was weekend so the shops were closed to buy a smaller rawl bolt. Here I got a tip from a you tube clip. I took a 10 mm bolt and sliced a +- 5 mm slot vertically down the threaded side (opposite to the head side) with a hacksaw blade. You insert the bolt into the bearing you want removed and you then tap a scrediver into the cut slot from the back, which expands the bolt like a rawl bolt so that it fits tight into the bearing. You then turn the bolt out using another nut added onto the bolt and a socket which can acomodate the outer diameter of the bearing. Also very simple and inexpensive. Took 5 minutes! If you need, I can paste a few photos.

[Dudes]

Got this video in a few of the "bearings threads" at the moment, shows how the blind hole puller works:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGk-RD5cuSc&list=PL9DC2A0EF4BCCEF29

 

Yes a punch goes in the back but the lip is too small for the punch to get a grip on. So when you hit the punch it just slides through and out!!

 

HOWEVER I solved my problem inexpensively. You buy a rawl bolt from the hardware store for a few bucks. Tighten that into the bearing and then tap the bearing out from the back by tapping on the stuck rawl bolt. When the one is out then you do not need the rawl bolt to get the other side out as now the punch can reach the other side bearing (from the back). Quick and easy.

 

Then I got to the swing arm bearings and had the same problem. They also cannot be punched out from the back because there is no lip to work with. The ID of those bearings are smaller than the other pivot bearings (10 mm) and my rawl bolt is 12 mm. Also, it was weekend so the shops were closed to buy a smaller rawl bolt. Here I got a tip from a you tube clip. I took a 10 mm bolt and sliced a +- 5 mm slot vertically down the threaded side (opposite to the head side) with a hacksaw blade. You insert the bolt into the bearing you want removed and you then tap a scrediver into the cut slot from the back, which expands the bolt like a rawl bolt so that it fits tight into the bearing. You then turn the bolt out using another nut added onto the bolt and a socket which can acomodate the outer diameter of the bearing. Also very simple and inexpensive. Took 5 minutes! If you need, I can paste a few photos.