igg Posted January 9, 2015 Share I did pop through to cycle lab (fourways & centurion) earlier in the week and didn't see anything on the floor in 60/61. They indicated the machine they use to fit only tells them what frame size I need after I've picked out which model I'm buying. So this won't really work for me as I'm looking to buy used, so I'm just shopping around for whatever's available. This will be my first road bike. Manufacturers recommendations all seem to have me split between a 58 or 61 so can't really use that as guidance, as in I could fit either. The fit guide I did has to be taken with a grain of salt as I did all the measurements myself, but it recommended 58-59 top tube, 60-61 seat tube CC. I'm inclined to just get a 58 and and raise the bars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camelman Posted January 9, 2015 Share I am 1.9 with an 86 inseam. I have a pinarello with a old school frame. I never buy on the seat tube length anymore as the seat tube can be adjusted. I buy on top tube length that works. What works for me is a horizontal TT of 575-580cm. You seem to be very similar in build so have a look at That measurement on the bike you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igg Posted January 9, 2015 Share http://johannesburg.olx.co.za/cannondale-roadbike-iid-767697857 Found this. No idea what year/model it is so struggling to google. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quintonb Posted January 9, 2015 Share Looks like it could be a CAAD 10, possibly a 2009/2010 or so as the STi levers still have the external gear shift cables. XL doesnt really mean anything when it comes to Cannondale. They use normal geometry measurments ie: 58cm, etc... To be honest I am a Cannondale fan, specially for the bigger rider, with our height comes weight and Cannondale are the only Aluminium frames I trust when it comes to heavier riders...Just my opinion from years of riding, 'Dale's have always stood up to the punishment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igg Posted January 9, 2015 Share Skinny bugger here: 78kg, so not too worried about cracking a frame. Seller says he thinks it's a CAAD5 that he bought 13 years ago . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quintonb Posted January 9, 2015 Share If that's the case then I would say 14k is too much. They great bikes, I still ride a CAD 3 which I have had for about 15 years, bought it new and it still rides like a new frame does, rigid, never had any issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igg Posted January 9, 2015 Share The ad indicates the selling price is 7k. Maybe he's just saying the new price is 14? http://pretoria.olx.co.za/cannondale-caad-8-roadbike-excellent-condition-iid-769539593CAAD8 for a bit more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quintonb Posted January 9, 2015 Share Sorry missed that. 7K isnt bad. CAAD 8 has Tiagra, personally I would rather have the 105 one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winstonian1984 Posted January 9, 2015 Share I am 1.9 with an 86 inseam. I have a pinarello with a old school frame. I never buy on the seat tube length anymore as the seat tube can be adjusted. I buy on top tube length that works. What works for me is a horizontal TT of 575-580cm. You seem to be very similar in build so have a look at That measurement on the bike you want.Agree with the top tube statement. Im 1.92 on a Giant TCR M/L Seat tube 53.5cm, 57cm top tube with 120mm stem. Looks like im riding a bmx but its so comfortable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigW Posted January 11, 2015 Share A good rule of thumb to (physically) check sizing on a road bike is 1) sitting up straight in the saddle (on a trainer or with someone holding you) and with the cranks aligned to the seat tube, the heel of your foot should comfortably reach the lower pedal without stretching, and 2) sitting up straight in the same way, hands on the hoods, the front axle should be obscured by the handle bars. Not a replacement for a proper bike fit, but somewhere to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIPEOUT 1000 Posted January 11, 2015 Share I have owned both sizes and in reality the effective top tube length normally differs less than 25mm between a 58 and a 61 and since seat tube angle is normally the same, saddle height is not a problem and you can easily match the reach with the correct stem. However, from my perspective, the biggest difference is in fact the head tube length, e.g. it may differ by 30mm to 50mm depending on make and model and since carbon forks limit how many spacers you can use, you may have a problem with getting the "drop" right. E.g. if you're fairly inflexible ( a Bull in Fizik terminology) or prefer a slightly more upright position you may be better off on a 61cm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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