Jump to content

Rear shock question


ecotech84

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I have a Giant Anthem advanced MTB . My question is the current shock is a rockshoc but it isnt a lockout shock ,it has a lever that you can adjust the hardness /softness of the shock . Can you have a shock thats lockable on a carbon frame ??

 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Of course you can. Scott has a few plastic bikes rocking their twinloc tech.

The frame material doesn't really make a difference.

 

It's worth mentioning that the difference between a firm 'pro-pedal' setting and 'lockout' is minute. While modern shocks have become very efficient at pedaling up. They will never pedal as well as a hardtail. Something to think about before splashing on a new rear shock.

 

If you want all the power in your legs to go straight to the rear wheel. Get a hardtail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

????i have a 26er still but if i go hardtail would probably be on a 29er

 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys

I have a Giant Anthem advanced MTB . My question is the current shock is a rockshoc but it isnt a lockout shock ,it has a lever that you can adjust the hardness /softness of the shock . Can you have a shock thats lockable on a carbon frame ??

 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

You can get a lockout conversion for it - did that to my sons carbon Anthem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where would i find the conversion kit ?

 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Mt apologies - did not read the topic properly - we did this on his front shock . If an Anthems rear shock is set correctly there should be no reason for a lockout. Do yourself a favour and bomb the  Rockshock . Chain reaction has Fox DPS  rear shocks specifically for the Anthem with the correct tune at about R2800.    

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys

I have a Giant Anthem advanced MTB . My question is the current shock is a rockshoc but it isnt a lockout shock ,it has a lever that you can adjust the hardness /softness of the shock . Can you have a shock thats lockable on a carbon frame ??

 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

If your bike is bobbing when you pedal then best 1st option is to get the shock properly serviced. If still not working to your satisfaction then at least you can sell it knowing it is in good order. Both Fox and Rockshox make higher spec shocks with settings to stiffen the shock while pedalling. A rigid lockout increases impact loads on pivot bearings and bushes and I wouldn't recommend it. Rigid lockout also not as good for traction while pedalling in rough trail conditions.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe I'll get it serviced and take it from there. I cant remember if it has a airvalve on the shock . Could that be a problem?

 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The easy way to set up an Anthems rear shock - Firstly forget about all the sag settings that are listed. Find a moderately  steep hill and  start off with with lower pressure in the shock. You need to have someone to watch the movement of the shock.Pedal hard up the hill and increase the pressure in the shock until the bobbing stops.Set the dampening and u're done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The easy way to set up an Anthems rear shock - Firstly forget about all the sag settings that are listed. Find a moderately  steep hill and  start off with with lower pressure in the shock. You need to have someone to watch the movement of the shock.Pedal hard up the hill and increase the pressure in the shock until the bobbing stops.Set the dampening and u're done.

kakkest advice ever. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe I'll get it serviced and take it from there. I cant remember if it has a airvalve on the shock . Could that be a problem?

 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

yeah, you need to set the pressure according to your weight, so that it has the desired amount of sag for the type of riding you do.

 

For XC / Marathon = 20-25% sag when seated (majority of focus is on climbing and in a seated position)

 

For trail riding - 20-25% sag when in the "attack position" (out the saddle, weight centered on the bike, elbows bent)

 

For more plush riding (aggresive trail) - 25-30% sag in the attack position. 

 

Once you have that sorted, set the rebound damping to suit the pressure you're at and the trails you're riding. More varying terrain & bumpier / more successive hits = higher rebound speed (more rabbit) as you don't want the shock to "pack down" into the travel. Less aggressive terrain means you can have a slightly slower rebound setting. Same goes for speed. The faster you're going and the harder you're hitting stuff, the faster you want the rebound to be.

 

If you set your shock to stop bobbing whilst you're climbing, you're setting it to be a hardtail and forgoing all the benefits of climbing with a full susser - superior traction, better rollover on technical sections, better energy conservation. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A lot of the above also depends on the tyres you're running, and the pressure you're running them at. For example - Me on my 2.35 magic marys on 35mm wide (internal) rims can run a far softer suspension setting than, say, if I were running the same tyres on a 25mm wide (internal) rim as the tyre is taking absorbing a LOT more of the trail's variations than the guy on the 25mm wide rims (18psi vs 28psi in the tyres)

 

if you set your shock to not bob, you're setting it up to be as hard as possible and not move at all despite your pedalling input and weight distribution changes. That essentially makes it into a hardtail. 

 

If you've got a lockout lever - fine. Your suspension's compression setting will be set to be SUPER slow when engaging it, essentially slowing down the movement of oil in the shock and limiting the distance that a shock will move when meeting an obstacle when compared to a shock that is left in the open position (same concept as poking a small hole in a bottle and forcing the liquid out, vs cutting an inch wide hole - which one allows faster transfer of fluids?). But if you set your shock to have no movement when in the open position... you may as well buy a hardtail

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout