greatwhite Posted February 7, 2017 Author Posted February 7, 2017 The heads do break off, they are difficult to obtain, you are forced into the spoke pattern that your hub designer wants, if the nipples start to seize the whole spoke rotates and on some hubs it is a feat to get a replacement spoke in. J bend, stress relieved, improved spoke line on the elbow and spoke washers - the way to go. If I build a wheel with 32 spoke 3 cross DB J bend spokes I give a spoke warrantee for the life of the rim or hub.Valid points, I guess, but it does beg the question why DT make a vast majority of their wheels straight pull? A manufacturer who should, probably more than any other, know the best solution.
VictoriousSecret Posted February 7, 2017 Posted February 7, 2017 That and the Firecrests are many times what I want to spend..... So not the 'Ultimate' set of training wheels rather a set that fit in your budget. What are you looking to spend might be a good start to fit in the best for the price.
greatwhite Posted February 8, 2017 Author Posted February 8, 2017 So not the 'Ultimate' set of training wheels rather a set that fit in your budget. What are you looking to spend might be a good start to fit in the best for the price. Not at all. To me, the ultimate set of training wheels, is the wheelset that represents the ultimate in reliability/durability but also common sense value for money (not super aero or super light). For example: Some might argue that Chris King hubs are the right hubs to use because of their reputation for an extremely good/long lifespan - so while they are hugely expensive, their Rands/km might make sense in the long term. Similarly for the rest of the wheel, Its not about price directly, but rather Rands/km (or should be cents/km). I have a set of EC90 aero tubulars on the other bike for racing, but I question the long term durability of those wheels under me for everyday use and even if they did last, the tyres are hugely expensive and a pain in the ass to replace - not the ultimate training wheel IMO. In a nut shell, it would appear in this instance, your metrics for ultimate are different to mine.
greatwhite Posted February 8, 2017 Author Posted February 8, 2017 The sort of wheel I am leaning toward is:DT RR511 rims - 32 holeDT350 hubs 32 hole, std flangeDouble butted spokes Ø2.0 ends and Ø1.7 or Ø1.8 centre section from an established quality manufacturer Why the above:DT RR511 - 32mm deep section, should make the vertical wheel flexure minimal and therefore reduce spoke and eyelet fatigue. Welded joint for best joint area strength. At 530g, not light, but not a tank either. The reasonably aero section, is just a bonus.DT350 hubs 32 hole, std flange - good reputation for reliability basically the same as the 240 hubs, but just a little heavier (48g, IIRC), but half the price. all bearing replaceable. spares available (although, not always easily, but non of the hubs are).DB spokes - for fatigue resistance, but without going to a Ø1.5 mid section that will make the wheel laterally sloppy under a large lad like me. Not a cheap wheelset, but no frills. Just concentration on the objective. If I'm 1km/hr slower in training, so what.
V12man Posted February 8, 2017 Posted February 8, 2017 Valid points, I guess, but it does beg the question why DT make a vast majority of their wheels straight pull? A manufacturer who should, probably more than any other, know the best solution.Straight pull is easier to be built by machine I suspect
Madone69 Posted February 8, 2017 Posted February 8, 2017 my wheels Mavic Open Pro 32 holeRecord hubs - rear hub was replaced by PT a few years agoDT double butted spokes DT nipples MOST IMPORTANT - a good wheel builder who is knowledgeable. +15yrs without issues.
greatwhite Posted February 8, 2017 Author Posted February 8, 2017 Straight pull is easier to be built by machine I suspectProbably right. having said that, I also believe that from an engineering point of view a straightpull spoke head is a better solution (assuming it is seated properly). The term stress relieving as referred to in the bike wheel spoke context is actually bending the J-bend on the spoke, so that it doesn't flex backward and forward under normal operation and in turn minimizes fatigue as a result. The fact that you bent it (pushed it past yield) says you have already damaged the material a little. Having said the above, if the combination of preload (spoke tension) and stress fluctuations (wheel going round or bumps) stay under the cyclic fatigue limit of the grade of steel used in the spokes, Then the above is moot and all the practical issues David Marshall mentioned are the deciding factor
greatwhite Posted February 8, 2017 Author Posted February 8, 2017 my wheels Mavic Open Pro 32 holeRecord hubs - rear hub was replaced by PT a few years agoDT double butted spokes DT nipples MOST IMPORTANT - a good wheel builder who is knowledgeable. +15yrs without issues. Same rim, same number of holes. Fatigue failure round eyelets in a few years - how much do you weigh?
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.