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Posted

 

 

 

 

So there I was just riding along, going down hill not too fast in Jonkershoek Evil%20Smile, jumped over a rut in the road and landed on a spot covered in the green slime of death...

 

I tried my best and almost recovered it, but in the end it was a choice: Either I go into the embankment, or the bike goes into the embankment and I roll down the road. End result: I have one very small scratch from rolling down the road. Problem is, I only managed to launch my 90kg off the bike on impact.

Front wheel did not like that and is a total write off. Had to walk back to the gate. Fork should be OK.

 

I had non-tubeless Alex rims with Stans tubeless conversion on my Giant Anthem 2. Not 100% sure, but think the hubs are Shimano LX. Brakes are Juicy 3 disks (standard 2007 anthem spec).

I am not a race snake, so don't need the very best or absolute lightest and bling is not my thing. Durability and affordability counts much more in my book.

 

So the question is what do I replace with?

 

1. New standard rim built on original hub + Stans kit.

 

2. New tubeless rim on original hub

 

3. New tubeless front wheel

 

4. Complete new tubeless wheel set.

 

What would you do?

 

LBS have the follwong tubeless options in stock:

 

Mavic 819 tubeless rim @ R1085 (excluding spokes and build)

 

Cervino A class tubless wheel set  @ R3415.

 

Shimano XT tubeless wheel set @ R4300.

 

Any comments on these?

If going for the full new set, is the XT set that much better than the A class?

 

 

mountain_lion2008-06-17 05:08:45

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Posted
Shimano LX hubs are fine hubs. Rebuild your wheel on a DRC rim (R300) with standard spokes. Convert it to Stans. Go for a ride.

 

Great rims that Johan.Thumbs%20Up
Posted
Shimano LX hubs are fine hubs. Rebuild your wheel on a DRC rim (R300) with standard spokes. Convert it to Stans. Go for a ride.

 

c'mon Johan - you know thats what we MTBers don't want to hear, deep down we know that kit is fine, but we just have to have the latest cool parts on our bikes......Big%20smile
Posted

If the wheelbuilder knows what he's doing, you can get away with just about anything...

 

Back in the day I used to race national downhills (with a run-in with mr. minnaar at a sabie dual slalom) with cheap STX hubs with single wall bontrager rims. Never buckled a rim.

 

Oh, and greg beat me (shocker) by about a second, and I'm sticking to my story that that was the outcome purely because my gears were slipping (was using two different wheels for the XC race and DH/DS race, and DH/DS cassette was too old). Cool

 

 

Posted

 

Shimano LX hubs are fine hubs. Rebuild your wheel on a DRC rim (R300) with standard spokes. Convert it to Stans. Go for a ride.

 

c'mon Johan - you know thats what we MTBers don't want to hear' date=' deep down we know that kit is fine, but we just have to have the latest cool parts on our bikes......Big%20smile
[/quote']

 

You have to consider all the options when the opportunity presents itself to replace bike parts, but I am thinking along the same lines as JB.

 

Main reason I am considering getting tubeless rims is that with my existing rims I always struggle to get the tire to seal around the value stem using the Stans kit (and yes, I did drill out the valve hole).

Does this problem improve with true tubeless rims?

Might be just the design of the specific Alex rims I have.

 

JB: any specific DRC rim you would recommend for a 90kg XC mountain biker who does hammer the bike a bit on the down hills?

Looks like DRC MT17 or MT18 will work, but they also do a DH18 which is disc specific and lighter...

 

 

Posted
Ja' date=' Ja Mampara... ons vat dit maar van wie dit kom smiley1.gif

If everybody had to post when ever they had a puncture with Yes-tubes, TheHub would be a very boring read...

[/quote']

 

Might be true. But if/when they do, I've not in 18 months, they don't advertise it and make a big deal about it. Fix the tube and there you go. No long investigation on why it did not seal or because it's not compatible with this tyre/rim.

 

YES-TUBES RULE!!!

 

WinkWinkWinkWinkWinkWinkWink

 

 
Posted

Have not had a problem with my No-tubes in 18 months either.

Once sealed, they are sealed. Just a bit of hassle some times get it done with a floor pump, but I am not going to buy a compressor just for when I have to replace a worn tyre...

 

Now if you can give your valued opinion on which DRC rim to get, you could actually add some value here! Stern%20Smile

 

 

Posted
Now if you can give your valued opinion on which DRC rim to get' date=' you could actually add some value here! Stern%20Smile

[/quote']

 

I think at this stage it is better to get DRC rims then Zimbabwean rims. I doubts you will get much back-up service from them.

 

*okay, I've got my hat*

 

 
Posted

OK, I checked the hubs and doubt if it is Shimano.

Drivetrain is Shimano LX, but the hubs must have been supplied to Giant in a no-name deal.

 

I could not find any branding on it at all. They are black and were supplied standard with the 2007 Giant Anthem 2. Worked fine until now.

Rim is/was Alex DP17 disc specific.

 

So not sure if I need to "upgrade" the hub.

 

 

 

Posted

DannyBoi, either you are a roadie or have never cycled off-road around Stellenbosch (or anywhere where you have clay ground) in winter! LOL

 

On damp clay (often in the pine plantations) you get this green algae (??)... Which can only be aptly described as "snot glad"!

Just roling over it is looking for trouble; landing on it from a jump is suicidal! Ouch

Problem is that you often only see it when it is too late.

 

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