Carbon, integrated shock seatpost

[Brakkies Sport Fotos]

Buff....Wat beteken dit in "minder woorde" en in afrikaans

 

 

 

There are a few different kinds to think about.

 

 

 

The ones like the Thudbuster that use a parallelogram design to give suspension travel, and those that telescope to give travel. Each have their advantages and disadvantages.

 

 

 

Parallelogram Designs: The Thudbuster is the most popular of these designs. They actually make two different models. One had just under 2" of travel, the other has about 3". When you hit a bump, the seat swings back in a rearward arc as the seatpost compresses. That is how it is able to get a lot of travel. Some people really like this motion. It works really well on the back of our tandem. Others don't like how it effectively changes the seat tube angle when you hit a bump. It is the kind of thing that you should try if you can before you buy one. Some folks don't like that there is very limited damping control to these posts.

 

 

 

The good part about it is that since the seatpost is moving back instead of down, it doesn't change the effective seat height as much as a telescoping post does.

 

 

 

Damping is what controls the speed at which the seatpost compresses and rebounds. A seatpost with no damping would basically work like a catapult (as Trek found out with their first suspension bike design about 13 years ago).

 

 

 

One note of caution. There are a lot of deals available on Thudbusters. Cane Creek (makers of the Thudbuster) came out with a revamped model of the 3" travel post and the new 2" travel post about 8 months ago. These both have stronger and more rigid pivots. In the long run, you may be better off making sure that the deal that you get is on the new, upgraded Thudbuster.

 

 

 

Telescoping Designs: I think you see more of these. They're often made by companies that sell suspension forks. Rock Shox, USE and White Brothers are three examples. The useful travel on these posts is somewhat Some use elastomers (slightly high tech rubber bumpers) to provide both spring and damping. Others use a coil spring and some kind of fluid damper. These tend to offer a bit better damping and smoother operation than the elastomer type.

 

 

 

One of the main problems with the telescoping type is that it makes seat height adjustment problematic. Your seat height changes every time you hit a bump. If you have very precise measurements for your seat height, it is difficult to measure your true seat height since it must be done with you sitting on the saddle in a riding position in order to compress the post.

 

 

 

Investing in a good quality post is suggested rather than going on the cheap as the bearings or bushings (the usually plastic surfaces upon which the seatpost slides) are of higher quality. Some last very well as is identified by the previous poster who talked about his 4 or 5 year old USE. That says a lot for the quality of the USE post. It is also one of the lightest.

 

 

 

One last word of caution. Whatever post you get, make sure that you supplement the seals that come with the post. Dirt, mud and water are the enemy of the suspension seatpost. You can make your own seal with an old bicycle tube and a pair of zip ties. For our thudbuster, I purchased a motorcycle tube and stretched it over the post.

 

 

[Buff]

Pops, dit beten dat jou kniee gaan *** met daai susp. seatpost!!!

Seriously though, I did my first epic with a USE susp. seatpost and I suffered like hell with knee pain and so did a few mates. After that I replaced it with a carbon EC70 for the Transalps and I had no hassles with my knees, but my back suffered... but that could be from the ruthless climbs.

 

Rather just train on your dual and ride it with the dual, your back & knees will thank you for it. The adv. you gain in speed from the HT will be outweighed by the fatigue of getting knocked around on it.

[Thug]

So it would seem Popeye, judging from that report that if you don't mind your seat height changing every 2 minutes, then get the telescoping design, otherwise go for the thudbuster.

 

Me......... I'd go with the Thudbuster.

 

[TitusTi]

I would seriously advise against riding this on an HT, rather get a good quality full sus, instead of having 2 bikes. I don't believe there are still arguments in this day and age about HT versus FS. From what I've heard from the guys who did the trial ride the course is rough! Ride it on a proper dual. What's the problem?

[buckshot]

in my case? $$$   - especially when i also like riding quality stuff...

[Brakkies Sport Fotos]

Titus.. Kom ons maak somme.

 

 

 

Daar is 16000m se klim, d.w.s al die D/S ouens lock hulle front and back shock = Hulle ry hardtail.

 

 

 

Dan is daar baie bicycle drawerk = dws ligter oppie lyf.

 

 

 

Dan is daar open grond plaas paaie, dws = lock jou voor shock uit, anders move dit te veel.

 

 

 

Daar is baie klippe, = nie baie ouens ry daai klippe, hulle tel op en dra oor.

 

 

 

Wat het ek gemis?

 

 

 

 

[TitusTi]

Who in their right minds riding a decent full sus would ever lock the suspension, at least half the benefit you get is because of the traction control going uphill.

With the FS you would be one of the riders that rides up the harder stuff because your entire body is taking less of a battering.

What are you doing to your front shock to make it move to much? If you're worried about the inconsequential movement get a terra-logic/spv front fork.