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Posted

I have just gotten a new frame on a warrantee claim and the headset is pretty tight.   How tight should it be if it has new bearings and if it is too tight how do you set it? is there an order as to what parts get tightened first? 

 

Also how do you know when its tight enough or if its too loose?Confused

 

Thanks
Posted

It should not be tight. Undo it (stem and then top cap) and then retighten the top cap until you don't get any play on the fork anymore. Lock the front brake while rocking the bike back and forth. Then just tighten the stem bolts (4.5-6nm)

 

 
Mampara2008-10-03 02:10:33
Posted

I think it's better you take it to your LBS....rather be that than buying a new headset in a few weeks, or worse yet if it's an internal headset, not tightening it enough and ovalising your headtube and thus wrecking your brand new frame.

 

It's such an easy job, but it's a critical one. Mampara's description is correct, but thing is that headset adjustment has a lot to do with 'feel' and that's not something you just describe easily over the internet.

 

Rather have it done now and then get someone who knows how to show you.

 

Use it....don't use it.

 

 

 

 

Posted

I don't think there's any need for alarm here nor need to take it to a bike shop. Mampara described the process very nicely. I'd like to add just one or two more pointers that may help.

 

To gauge the adjustment of the headset, side sidesaddle on the bike, lock the front brake with your one hand and with the other, put your hand so that your thumb covers a bit of the frame and headset top cap. Now rock the bike like Mampara says. If the headset is too loose, you'll feel a definite play at that point.

 

Now pick up the bike's front end and turn the steering left and right. It should not lock but move as freely as the cables allow.

 

Go ride.

 
Posted

Don't mean to cause alarm.

 

I just tend to play it very safe with these things.

 

I was taught that you don't tighten till the play is gone. You tighten till there's resistence and then slowly back it off until the resistance goes away.

 

There's quite a bit of adjustment between the point where the play is gone and just before there's too much resistance.

 

This is why I say it's got something to do with the 'feel' of the headset as you turn the bar.

 

Headsets can sometimes settle and running it a little tighter(but not too tight) can to an extent compensate for this.....well....that's my theory anyway

 

 

 

Posted

Oh ja....the finger on the headset as JB mentioned is probably the most accurate way of feeling play.

 

Also, I turn the bar to 90 degrees as often holding the brakes is inaccurate as they tend to have a bit of slop in them, expecially V's and cantis. Either that or push the tire straight up against a wall or something and gently rock forwards and backwards(without it losing contact with the wall)

 

 

 

 

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