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Anthem 1 rear suspension


anthemboy

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I have a regular problem with the rear pivot triangles on my Anthem.  The left hand side bolt, which holds the triangle to the rear top swing arm keeps coming loose.  Even when fitted with loctite.

 

This bolt broke off when the bike was 8months old.  I had to buy the whole kit to replace both bolts.  After 2-3 rides the left hand side bolt would be loose.  After this weekend's Harkerville rides the bolt was loose again and the thread came out when I retightened it.  We are now fitting sleeves and stainless bolts.

 

Am i the only one with this problem?Confused
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It sounds to me that there is something out of alignment at the bolt. A bent member or something. Reason I think so is because the bold is being "ratcheted" out. On say, the upstroke, the frame turns the bolt and on the downstroke it ratchets past it.

 

My explanation is not clear, I know, but basically, look for a misalignment in that area.

 

 
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I understand what you mean.  I will have a close look when I re-assemble the bike, hopefully this evening.  Spoke to my mechanic as well who services a few other Anthems and I'm the only one with the problem.

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My Anthem is over 20,000km old and even thought the pivots come loose I can't recall if it is the same one. But it tend to be the rear ones and rear shock mounts. Never had any issues after tightening it.

As with all manufactured goods - it might not be bent parts but maybe misalligned between the "swing arm" and frame bolt area i.e. if you think about all the parts that needs absolute precision at that specific point of contact, it might be that one of them is out by 1mm.

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I think I found the problem.

 

While I was fitting the new stainless steel bolts, I notice the spacer/sleeve which sits between the bearing and the pivot triangle did not fit onto the bolt.  It also made a very tight fit onto the original bolt.  The coating on the old bolt was also damaged.  This sleeve is pinched between the pivot triangle and the bearing and if it fits tightly onto the bolt, this might create the ratchet effect which turns the bolt loose.

 

Obviously towards the end, the bolt came loose more often and damaged the bolt more.  That's why it only took 2 rides to loosen the bolt at the end.  I fortunately had 2 new sleeves and they slid easily onto the new bolts.  I will test the new setup over the weekend.20091007_053358_IMG_7169b.jpg
anthemboy2009-10-07 05:37:35
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Glad to hear you see light at the end of the tunnel.

 

Tip: Keep your photos no more than 450 pixels wide and we won't have to scroll like crazy to ready the text and see the pictures.

 

 
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IF THAT BOLT HAS BROKEN OR LOOSENED,BE SURE TO CHECK THE DU BUSHINGS AND REDUCERS ON THE SHOCK.THEY TAKE A BEATING BECAUSE OF UN-EVEN LOAD.

ARE THE BEARINGS IN GOOD CONDITION?

CAN YOU TURN THE INNER PART EASILY BY HAND ?

THE LITTLE SPACER RING THAT YOU MENTIONED COULD ALSO HAVE WORN DOWN A BIT,BE SURE THAT IT IS NOT TOO THIN.

SNAPPING BOLTS LIKE THIS IS NOT TOO COMMON,ALTHOUGH YOU WILL FIND MANY GUYS WITH ANTHEMS THAT HAVE EXPERIENCED THE PROBLEM.THIS IS BECAUSE THERE ARE SO MANY ANTHEMS OUT THERE.

 

 

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The bearings are still good.  They were replaced some time ago.  The rear shock was services 2 weeks ago and new bushes were fitted.  I also fitted new sleeves/spacers on the bolts last night.

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very interesting conversation this! I have problems with the pivots on my new AnthemX. I have constant creecks. Had bearings replaced after less than 300km, replaced bearings last week and again had creecks this weekend.

 

Going to follow all your comments and check if I have any similar damage to sleeves or bearings.
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ANTHEMBOY THOSE ALLOY REDUCERS SHOULD TURN INSIDE THE DU BUSHINGS,THIS IS WHY THE BUSHINGS HAVE A TEFLON COATING ON THE INSIDE.

WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE SHOCK MOUNTING BOLT IT SHOULD BE TIGHT ENOUGH THAT THE REDUCERS DON'T ACTUALLY REST ON THE BOLT.

 

 

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BORRIZ,

I HAVE NOT HAD ANY OF THE ANTHEM X FRAMES CREAKING MUCH,BUT WHAT CONCERNS ME IS THE FACT THAT THE LOWER SHOCK EYE DOES NOT HAVE DU BUSHINGS THAT ARE EASY TO REPLACE WHEN NEEDED,RATHER IT HAS ONE BIG ALLOY BOLT WITH TWO CYLINDRICAL SPACERS.I CAN ONLY THINK THAT THAT BOLT SHOULD BE REMOVED AND CLEANED AND LUBED.

IF THAT FAILS TO SORT THE PROBLEM,CHECK ALL BOLTS AND BELIEVE IT OR NOT CHECK THAT REAR Q/R IS NICE AND TIGHT.

 

 

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Hi 20niner,  thanks for the info.  I checked last night by removing the frong shock bolt and swinging the shock.  You are right.  The alloy reducers are stationary and the shock revolves around them.

 

Do you have to grease/lubricate that teflon coated bush or just keep it clean?
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no lube on that bushing,that is the teflons job,if the reducers that are inserted into the bushing can be removed by hand or worse, if they just fall out,the bushing needs replacement.if you replace the bushing and the reducers are still loose then replace the reducers too.

the bushing is normally the one to go first.

 

 

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