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Powder coating


shaunster

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I had an alu frame done at Supreme Powdercoaters in Kew. Cost R100-00, matt grey, they acid dipped the frame to remove all paint and closed up all holes, threads etc. before coating. Highly recommend them, I got their details from Mike at Mikes Bikes.

 

PM me for contact details.

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Latest frame with blasting and coating cost 170 at S P C.

Hardtail.

 

Just make sure that you either plate your BB (then it can go straight to coating)or put some old BB cups in the shell threads BEFORE blasting (but REMOVE before powdercoating and plate up), as the blaster is unable to avoid damaging the threads. Tape up any other protruding NB threads {brake post mounts etc} with a good layer of electrical tape. For blasting fill internal thread areas with prestick.

 

Acid dipping to remove paint is only really applicable if the surface is not already powdercoated.

 

NB! I do not recommend Powdercoating your fork lowers.

1. The internal bushings will be damaged in the curing ovens.

2. If the lowers are Magnesium they will be wrecked by same.

 

 

Explain this further please :thumbup:

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Explain this further please :thumbup:

 

If you leave the cups in (after blasting) the alu threads 'weld' themselves into the frame and are (almost) impossible to remove.

 

To powdercoat the frame is dipped into an etching solution, dried, coated and then baked. The combo gets in between the threads and 'welds' them together.

 

If the PC is happy that the BB shell will drain with the plating method I have shown then rather go that route from the outset.

 

I get the frame blasted (if it can not be acid bathed)and then bring it back to the office, shake out any excess grit, plate BB and mask necessarys. Then off to PC's

 

SLC engineering 0317056335 for blasting. After blasting ask if they can put it in the beadblaster. It 'smoothes' off the frame nicely. Just make sure you have done all the prep. They don't like stuffing around. :)

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If you leave the cups in (after blasting) the alu threads 'weld' themselves into the frame and are (almost) impossible to remove.

 

To powdercoat the frame is dipped into an etching solution, dried, coated and then baked. The combo gets in between the threads and 'welds' them together.

 

If the PC is happy that the BB shell will drain with the plating method I have shown then rather go that route from the outset.

 

I get the frame blasted (if it can not be acid bathed)and then bring it back to the office, shake out any excess grit, plate BB and mask necessarys. Then off to PC's

 

SLC engineering 0317056335 for blasting. After blasting ask if they can put it in the beadblaster. It 'smoothes' off the frame nicely. Just make sure you have done all the prep. They don't like stuffing around. :)

 

Ok cool, where can I take it for the dip? Also what you saying about prep work? How would a black sandblasted frame look with black sprayed forks?

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Ok cool, where can I take it for the dip? Also what you saying about prep work? How would a black sandblasted frame look with black sprayed forks?

 

The PCs who i used to use for acid dip I cant recommend anymore.

Sounds like custom craft do dipping though??. The number I gave for SLC is for shot/beadblast.

 

Prep work is masking all necessary threaded areas, and plating BB and headtube to protect the faced surfaces and threading.

 

ALL BLACK ? > Stealthy! :thumbup:

 

My latest is going to be Black/White, red detail 1x9er(12/36)

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The PCs who i used to use for acid dip I cant recommend anymore.

Sounds like custom craft do dipping though??. The number I gave for SLC is for shot/beadblast.

 

Prep work is masking all necessary threaded areas, and plating BB and headtube to protect the faced surfaces and threading.

 

ALL BLACK ? > Stealthy!

 

My latest is going to be Black/White, red detail 1x9er(12/36)

 

 

Yeah, all black with red detail, my full sus is all white with blue detail :thumbup: Just got all my bits from CRC deliverd to the office 5 mins ago as well - Exciting stuff.

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i agree that powdercoaters have their good days and their bad days. fortunately it's really easy to fix: 1500g wet paper with sopay water, gently sand to get rid of the "shine", follow that by a rubbing compound, then finish with a polishing compound and wax... b e a u t i f u l!

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has anyone tried to smooth down the welds when respraying

 

I did on my old silverback frame, was easy to do. I'm not sure though where those welds carry their strength.. so when I ride that frame it's really gently and every bump has me holding my breath!

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has anyone tried to smooth down the welds when respraying

 

Naah!

 

Welds are there for a reason boss!

 

Blasting smooths them good enuf. Powdercoating smooths them better.

 

If welds worry you then you better get rich so you can buy CARBON :)

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I did on my old silverback frame, was easy to do. I'm not sure though where those welds carry their strength.. so when I ride that frame it's really gently and every bump has me holding my breath!

 

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

I can't 'ride gently', and I find I keep falling over when I hold my breath.

 

'RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT !'

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CUSTOM CRAFT SPRAYPAINTERS

117 OLD MAIN ROAD

3610 PINETOWN

Phone: (+27) 31-7093514

Fax: (+27) 31-7093514

 

Ya oakley frames as in glasses, hope MTB hubs... di an awesome job and is relatively cheap!

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CUSTOM CRAFT SPRAYPAINTERS

117 OLD MAIN ROAD

3610 PINETOWN

Phone: (+27) 31-7093514

Fax: (+27) 31-7093514

 

Ya oakley frames as in glasses, hope MTB hubs... di an awesome job and is relatively cheap!

 

 

Not sure if you get there off of old Main Rd though?It looks like you need to get there from the back way. Ring before and just check first.

 

Thats awsome, I can get my glasses redone too :clap:

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