JJDT

As for attendance the EP supporters were hungry for proper teams playing there, hence the huge support at home. My opinion about SR. I think it had it support and with the current format which are more derby based. You should play all teams in the compitition and the 4 points for a bye is plain stupid. Should go back to S12 format. Increase the CC format to 8 again and the top 4 teams are in the SR, but you should field players from the bottom 4 sides in order to have 4 extremly compettive teams. There may some logistical problems but them we should see proper rugby again because it will be a case of force vs force. The other option is to scrap SR and again play Springbok trials and every second year go on tour for 2 months or so, the other year it is home games. Pick a squad of 35 players and play your Wednesday matches and select a good team for test matches on a Saterday. Rugby will come to terms again as there will be not so much matches and we will see some good quality games.

Even a prison sentence is a joke. These guys do have a royal time in prison...DSTV etc. They should re-open Robben Eiland as a prison again. Hard Labour for these guys only way they might learn. Another option is build a prison somewhere in the Kalahari where it is Hot in summer en ice cold in winter. No aircon no heaters just enough blankets to keep them warm in the winter and some work in the desert to keep them occupied.

When I sell something in general I always say the first person with the cash gets the item.

Following from the tools thread: I always try to do things myself and now that I'm more active in cycling I need to keep my bike also in shape. Have read a lot of topics here in Technical(not all but most) but I need to up my knowledge in order to maintain my bike better. My question now is do I invest in a book or do searches and watch video tutorials on YouTube. Saw an advert in Bicyling magazine for a book " The Bicycling Guide to Reapair and Maintenance". Thanks

Thanks for the document. The Loct City race and Rand Water race is on the calendar for 2012 so I presume that it will be again for 2013. What about the EPR race?

Try this link. https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/117620-best-chain-lube-for-mtb/page__hl__chain+lube The same lube will work on a road bike also.

I know this was on a while ago before the site crash, but can not find the topic. Anybody know what the seeding events are left for 2013, the cycle challenge website does not show anything. Thanks

They should've just fined them. This is basically just a slap on the wrist. I think the distributors should've recived massive fines and the cycle shops a lessor amount.

After the Magalies Monster my son showed me that the first 3 sprockets on the casette is loose on his bike. I'm still learning all the technical stuff and not sure if it just came loose because of the rough terrain. Can this be fixed or should I source a new casette? It is a 10 speed. Now onto my own bike. I have replaced the rear derrailer and the cable in January this year. Had a bike accident and was off for 8 weeks before I started riding again. The up shifting is not bad but it requires some effort very hard and the down shifting is horrible. When I shift down nothing happens and when I shift again it just jumps to the recent gear position and then it reuires an up shifting to the gear originally selected. I have loosened the cable a bit(basically pulled it to tension with my hand before tightning) because of the hard up shifting but did not help much. Adjusted at the shifter but with not much success. At first I lived with it but now that my fitness level increases and want to go faster the shifting is now a real problem. Help...

I started MTB races last year and my very first race was the Magalies Monster which was also the most difficult for me. As for a road race I always like the 94.7. I'm a social rider that only do one race a month, so can not comment more. I would also add that the Magalies Train chase was not well organised especially at the finish and the timing aspect.

USN Cup Race1 in Midrand

Doubt if your tires do have slime in then especially on a road bike. The tubes do have these slime pumped into it so if you fit new tires with the same tubes no problem.

Slighty off topic. Is there any fees involved if I change numbers and how do I go about it. A colleague here at work can not ride anymore and wants to give his number to me (Earlier starting time than my actual start time). Thanks

Be at the start about minimum 30 minutes before your actual starting time. You will have to go through the pens with your start group and progress to the actual start time. Be early because traffic will also play a major role. I would suggest that you park your car at 7:30 no later. This will give you enough time to slowly go towards the start point. If you are running late you will be stressed and will not have a relaxed start and most propably will not enjoy the race.

Joburg is on a small hill and Kyalami lies below Joburg...as said nice downhill and flat stretches.... Just one thing that might be a factor is that Joburg is somehwat hotter than Cape Town

Thanks for all the replies. Just to clarify the time. Although I said it is 8hours +(inlcudes time for getting lost) most of time the team members will have to sit and analyse the map in order to get to the next point. So for youngsters to analyse a terrain map will take a good few minutes and then they will have to plot out a route that they will take in order to get to the next point. The next point may be crossing a river or absailing down.

My 14 year old son is doing adventure racing, which includes cycling(MTB), running, absailing etc. which will be done in teams of 4. This will be done in the format where they will have to locate various check points on a terrain using maps. They will be out basically the whole day 8hours + and will only be in the main transition point once or twice. Apart from energy drinks what else do you reccomend food wise that they can carry with them in their backpacks and at the transition point?

Thanks for the replies forgot to add it is the left side. As for the pedal from the rear it is a tad too short, to find a "left treaded" bolt with the same thread pattern is a bit of a mission. As for the re-sleeving it is just the firt coil as to speak that is damaged the rest is fine, so I will not go this route. Maybe the last option is to buy another set of these plastic pedals butcher the pedal in order to work as a bolt and work it through from the rear of the crank.

Bought a set MTB pedals for my son's MTB to replace those standard plastic pedals. Removed the pedals a while ago, did not pay attention to any damage as the pedals screwed out fine. This weekend when I tried to fit the MTB pedals saw that the left side thread on the arm is somewhat stripped. It is only the first coil as the pedal screw on and just as it is going on the first full turn it jumps out. The rest of the thread is fine no damage. Is there a tool available just to clear the thread or must I go out and buy a complete new crank arm.

My son is 14 years old is currently involved with the Schools MTB challange and also doing some long ride with me on the road bike. What energy drinks can he use. Currently is on Game and complains that his energy levels drop during the race and on longer rides. Any alternatives...does not want to use something that will have a negative effect in years to come. I currently use Biogen Race Mix, will it be possible to use it for him also but just dilute the mix more? Thanks

My 13 year old son is riding with me the 94.7. Most of the products are suitable for adults only. He is drinking Game currently but will it be suitable for such a long endurance event to keep the energy levels in tact? Powerade or Energade as an alternative? Thanks

OK so I have figured it all out now I'm confused again. The saddle handlebar adjusts the tip of the seat to the edge of the handlebar but then saddle setback could either then adjust your saddle forward or backwards depending on the measurements. By doing this you will adjust the saddle-handlebar out again.

Thanks for the reply will look into it....words are not my strong point but I will try next time to fit the bike to my son :-)

I bought my son a road bike and went to competitive cyclist to get details of bike fitment. I do not understand those technical terms can somebody explain me these terms and what to do. Below is the layout. Thanks The Competitive Fit The Eddy Fit The French Fit Seat tube range c-c 54.4 - 54.9 55.6 - 56.1 57.3 - 57.8 Seat tube range c-t 56.1 - 56.6 57.3 - 57.8 59.0 - 59.5 Top tube length 52.0 - 52.4 52.0 - 52.4 53.2 - 53.6 Stem Length 10.5 - 11.1 9.4 - 10.0 9.6 - 10.2 BB-Saddle Position 75.9 - 77.9 75.1 - 77.1 73.4 - 75.4 Saddle-Handlebar 49.8 - 50.4 50.6 - 51.2 52.3 - 52.9 Saddle Setback 4.8 - 5.2 6.0 - 6.4 5.5 - 5.9 Explanation of Fit Calculator Output Values 1. Seat Tube Range C-C Your new bike's seat tube height should fall within this range. "Center-to-Center" signifies the length of the seat tube as measured from the center of the bottom bracket spindle to the midpoint of where the seat tube intersects the top tube. The seat tube height is most important as it relates to your head tube. If your seat tube is too short, your head tube will almost certainly be too short. This results in too low of a handlebar position placing an inordinate amount of stress on your neck and back. For this very reason, if you feel as though you could go with either of two sizes, going with the bigger frame is normally advisable. Please keep in mind that many frames come with a sloping or "compact" frame geometry in which the C-C seat tube measurement is artificially short. In the case of compact frames, you should primarily focus on the top tube measurement. 2. Seat Tube Range C-T "Center-to-Top" signifies the length of the seat tube as measured from the center of the bottom bracket spindle to the top of the seat tube where it intersects the top tube. 3. Top Tube Range This measurement is along the top tube, from the midpoint at the seat tube to the midpoint at the head tube. No single piece of frame geometry has a greater impact on comfort than your top tube. If you plan on paying attention to one measurement and one measurement only, make it this one. Keep in mind that we do not measure the actual top tube on bikes with compact frame geometry. Rather, we use an "Effective Top Tube" measurement - an imaginary line drawn parallel to the ground along the length of the top tube. 4. Stem Length This measurement indicates your ideal stem length. It takes into account that your stem will be flipped to its flatter angle (e.g. 80° for Deda, 84° for Ritchey). 5. BB-Saddle Position This measurement is along the seat tube, from the center of the bottom bracket spindle to the top of the saddle. It is an ideal starting point for saddle height. Given the varying differences of cleat and pedal heights, and given the varying differences in the thickness of saddles, the BB-Saddle position has a broad range of 2cm. 6. Saddle-Handlebar This measurement ties together your choice of stem length with your saddle setback. It is measured from the nose of the saddle to the near edge of your handlebar. Keeping within this range will assure that you don't accidently push the weight balance of your bike either too far forward or backward. 7. Saddle Setback This measurement is primarily a function of your femur length. The longer your femurs, the further your saddle needs to be behind the bottom bracket in order to allow you to produce power. If you sit too far forward (or too far back) you can over-emphasize certain muscles and joints, which robs you of power and can potentially cause you injury. Saddle setback is measured by dropping a plumb bob from the nose of your saddle and measuring how far behind the center of the bottom bracket it falls. This is not to be confused with the setback measurement of your frame, which is a measurement taken by dropping a plumb bob from the center of your seat tube/top tube interface, and measuring how far behind the center of the bottom bracket it falls.

My son was browsing the net and came across this make of bike. He asked me whether this is a good make or not. I'm not familiar with this make any comments good or bad. Thanks